Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Built For Drift- Which Top Mount Turbo Is The Best Option?

brembogtr

By brembogtr,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
There's still only one servo to get it from in NSW... kind of limiting.

Ye same for us :down:

I never saw PULP mentioned before you, Nismoid - I thought E85 is pump gas in Oz these days, too? It is showing up a lot around the world....

Well 700cc injectors gives it away, you'd need 1000cc or bigger using E85 :)

There is only a couple of servo's in Melb.

To give you an idea... The closest to me (and i live basically in the city), is 30mins drive one way.

If some one says they want a certain amount of power, i think we need to assume it is on 98 octane. It is a bit pointless telling some one they can make the power on "x" turbo, they go an buy it, try to make the power and can't. Then when they come back you say "oh sorry, i ment it would make that power on C16, E85, Nitrous..." etc.

I also wouldn't classify E85 as pump gas in Oz.

Couldn't agree more.

E85 is like saying you made that power on C16 - utterly irrelevant for most people being you can't get E85 anywhere in most states.

and that is that...

Maybe you should read the first post then?

700cc injectors

i want a single top mounted turbo and want to make 350rwk

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

700cc injectors should manage it on e85...

but either way i agree with pm-r33, when people ask for a power figure, its PULP unless otherwise stated...

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted

Fair enough, I wasn't sure if E85 was quickly becoming the new premium or not - I'd imagine if it came out here we'd all be getting tuned on it. I know everyone who has access to E10 here are doing so :down:

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

It was meant to spread to heaps of servo's here in Melb really quickly... this was around 12 months ago for Melb.

Since then not ONE of the servo's marked for E85 have started stocking it yet. Just the original few... So something serious must be going on to stop this becoming more widespread as it is a massive money maker. Few discussions with friends etc we roughly think its more profitable than PULP so why a company wouldn't adopt a more profitable product must mean there are issues.

Either way - assumption always is PULP. We've never assumed it was C16, Sunoco104 or anything else in the past... to magically start now is silly.

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted

Slightly different, E85 costs less than PULP per litre and officially could be available from the pump... so quite different from race gas. But yeah I get what you are saying.

I find it interesting that no one over there has managed to get more than 320-330kw @ wheels out of one on pump gas, though I am not sure exactly how harsh your dynos are. In the states there are people who have done around 350kw or so on PULP on Dynojet rolling roads and Dynapacks. Either way, I'd call a GT3582R more suitable for 350kw @ wheels on a drift car - you're going to be in high revs most of the time anyway, surely?

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
Slightly different, E85 costs less than PULP per litre and officially could be available from the pump... so quite different from race gas. But yeah I get what you are saying.

I find it interesting that no one over there has managed to get more than 320-330kw @ wheels out of one on pump gas, though I am not sure exactly how harsh your dynos are. In the states there are people who have done around 350kw or so on PULP on Dynojet rolling roads and Dynapacks. Either way, I'd call a GT3582R more suitable for 350kw @ wheels on a drift car - you're going to be in high revs most of the time anyway, surely?

dyno jets read quite high and ive noticed the us guys tend to qoute flywheel power when using dynapacks (they use the TC factor caculator)

The issue with E85 seems to be the storage tanks,no one wants to cough up for the required tanks and subsequent regs etc..

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Out of curiosity what car is this RB26 going to be in ? I'm guessing a GTR wouldn't be such a good drift car ?

Probably the real thing to to know is what is "adequate" power output because if 350 is too much sizing a turbo to suit is a little pointless .

Now I know nothing about drift but if I again had to guess I'd think real strong mid range torque with good throttle and boost response - to the hoof - would be everything .

I'm thinking the "burning" question should be how much torque and how accurately can it be modulated .

Not my money but would an RB25 with a supercharger be simpler/cheaper ?

A .

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)
Out of curiosity what car is this RB26 going to be in ? I'm guessing a GTR wouldn't be such a good drift car ?

Probably the real thing to to know is what is "adequate" power output because if 350 is too much sizing a turbo to suit is a little pointless .

Now I know nothing about drift but if I again had to guess I'd think real strong mid range torque with good throttle and boost response - to the hoof - would be everything .

I'm thinking the "burning" question should be how much torque and how accurately can it be modulated .

Not my money but would an RB25 with a supercharger be simpler/cheaper ?

A .

superchargers generally suck unfortunaly we do alot of superchargers on v8's and so forth and it is suprising how laggy most of the popular ones are.. makes a T51R look responsive :down:

typical boost curve for a charger --- >

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/po...boost-curve.jpg

Thread with a few graphs ive posted ----> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...66#entry4561766

A properly setup charger (900nm @ 3000rpm :) ) ----> post-a220072-mallo-charged.jpg

Edited by URAS
Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted
dyno jets read quite high and ive noticed the us guys tend to qoute flywheel power when using dynapacks (they use the TC factor caculator)

The issue with E85 seems to be the storage tanks,no one wants to cough up for the required tanks and subsequent regs etc..

Yes Trent is right!

The issue with E85 is the cost of the replacement tank lining. I was told it costs 40 GRAND per tank upgrade so as you can imagine who is going to spent that kinda cash on a upgrade that will not return the money for at least 5 - 10 years ?

It is also a legal requirement to have this upgrade to be able to stock E85.

Wait till holden brings out E85 flex. Things will change very fast.

My RB30DET ran out of injectors with Nismo 740cc at around 345 - 350 rwkw (mainline dyno)

There is plenty of info on my E85 thread about this stuff.... worth the read.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Yep :P

Fact. A GT3076 will not make 350rwkw on PULP. Nor will it make 360rwkw, or 374rwkw on PULP.

Fact. You will not make 350rwkw on E85 with 700cc injectors, nor will you make 360rwkw, or 374rwkw with those injectors.

Fact. A GT35 will do make 350rwkw on PULP with 700cc injectors, which is the question that was asked.

It's not the 'most responsive' option, but that power goal is in a little bit of no-mans land. However if you are drifting, the first 3500rpm of a tacho is rather pointless anyway.

Overall it's laughable to think E85 results (a specialist fuel no different to C16 at this stage, if anything C16 is EASIER to source) were brought into this thread just to try and backup incorrect facts...

And then try and call 'ignorance' :)

Shows how ignorant those with the incorrect facts really are.

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted (edited)

lol

just to prove your "facts" wrong... i cant wait till conan7772 gets bigger injectors, pumps a extra 1-2psi into the motor and makes the extra whole 13rwkw to make 350rwkw on pump fuel no less

Guilt-Toys car was making 345-350rwkw with Nismo 740cc's on e85 bump the fuel pressure a little with a reg and you will make more with 700cc's

Noone said that 35R's will not make the power...

Edited by Cerbera
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

I could make 360rwkw from GT-SS's if i want, doesn't make it true though does it?

From page one incase you've forgotten it, again. :P

I couldn't care less what a dyno says until there is some real proof to back that up.

Of which, as usual, there is ... zero.

But then you do love your arguments without real evidence :P

Lemme know when you have the evidence, i suspect though... we'll never see it.

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted (edited)
A GT3076 isn't going to make 350rwkw in a .82

Al has maxed his out @ 306rwkw or there abouts.

That is a solid 50rwkw shy really...

NYTSKY made 362rwkw with a 3076R and Denzo just made 374rwkw the other day...

your ignorance is always bliss

I couldn't care less what a dyno says until there is some real proof to back that up.

Of which, as usual, there is ... zero.

But then you do love your arguments without real evidence :P

Oh i see it is E85 - well that comes as little surprise, everyone seems to make a solid 40-50rwkw when changing from PULP (which everybody has access too), to E85 (which a lot of people do not)

It is not PULP 360rwkw...

There is no way the OP is going to make 360rwkw on E85 with 700c injectors, so he is clearly talking about PULP.

So its still back to exactly what i said, seems im not as ignorant as you are silly to put E85 results into a PULP thread... but that is fairly typical of you. :P

epic lol...

r31nismoid: 3076R is not going to make 350rwkw

cerbera: here are 2 that made more than 350rwkw

r31nismoid: i dont believe you, therefore your wrong

r31nismoid: *finds out he is wrong" epic backpedal and changes topic to e85

Edited by Cerbera

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...