Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

damn mustnt be on up here in darwin and darwin doesnt get one hd!!

MAte, I watched it live on One HD then afterwards switched to Normal Ch10 to see it was being broadcast there, with about a 25 lap delay....... did you get to see it?

you didn't miss much anyway. i was hoping something would happen with all the extra fuel and longer stints on the tyres - you know like tyres going off or some cars getting faster than others with the decreasing fuel loads, but nothing happened at all. except for a dodgy spark plug it would have been a complete procession.

Wow...

Rookies retiring, teams not taking their starting positions due to their cars not being ready, little if any passing among the top 8....

3 hours of my life I can't get back.

Glad the top level of motorsport has its act together. What a SHIT RACE (I was looking for the right wording, thanks Roy).

*praying HARD that it had more to do with the track than anything else*

But my loyalty to Webber cost me :cheers:

How sad was it to see the worlds fastest cars running around between 4-10 seconds a lap slower then their quali pace.

I loved how in teh closing laps Webber backed it off then went over two seconds quicker then Button for a lap or two..just to say, look what this car could do in free air. The no refuelling has dumbed down strategy which has been one of the ingredients for good racing the past few years

As for improving the racing, its rather easy. Let them keep their gearboxes etc, just give them steel brakes which means more mass the suspension has to control, less road grip, longer braking distances...for a start. Re-introduce re-fuelling and allow teams and extra 3,000rpm for 12 seconds per race, with a max of 3 seconds per lap. You dont need KERS, just let them use the revs they were using 3 years ago

lock in nando for the title

vettel is the only one outside the team that can stop him, because massa has no fkn chance. as soon as he had clear air, he was gone!!

madatory pit stops is the only thing that will save 2010

Massa did have car problems though. But was impressive to watch Alonso clear out. I was impressed by Massa first race back. I suspect it will be a 3 way shootout for the championship, what will be real interesting is the new points system. Webebr has a chance of another top 4 finish in the WDC simply because he should have the car speed to win a few GPs this year and whoever wins will bag a shit load of points

I would have laid down more smoke into Turn 1 then Webber, thats for sure :cheers:

But it is pretty shithouse to see F1 cars lumbering along so far off their real pace. Gone are the days of almost doing quali laps as you come up to your stop....the cars are always wounded with fuel load or tyre wear

Let's not forget that this is only the first race, and Bahrain is not typical of the tracks they will be racing on most of the year. We'll see what happens after a few more races, then we'll be able to draw some better conclusions.

I agree with what most people have said, not the most thrilling race ever. Turning F1 into an economy run ... I'm not sure. But it may be better on the Euro tracks.

At least the top few teams are relatively even. Yes it was a Ferrari 1-2, but Vettel probably would have won it but for his mechanical, and McLaren aren't that far off. Mercedes are up there too, although "old-man-Schumacher" performed as I expected him to, average but not great.

Come Australia I think you will see a much stronger performance from Webber, he had a dud run in qualifying and that buggered up his race. Not saying it wasn't his fault but I don't think his result was representative of his potential.

The new teams ... all I can say is that they didn't seem to get in the way too much. I didn't think it was possible for an F1 car to be as slow as the HRT cars are. I think it's likely that the new teams will get testing dispensation (extra days) later in the year. I have to say though, it's really nice to see the Lotus-Cosworth combination together again. The car looks good too.

Don't despair guys! It's only one race, let's hope things pick up in Australia.

WHERE TO for F1 ,

for me the only GOOD POINT was to see LOTUS back in F1 having grown up not far from the team base & trying to get a job at the F1 team in the mid 80`s was great to see them back at the top again,

CC would smile to see them back in F1 ,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...