Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mate its been done a few times now. no need to mod the ex housing for gate either,

Call andrew from AM Performance and have a chat to him about mounting one and making an adaptor to suit your gate for you, he's based in golden grove. Call him on 0401 865 373

just reading some threads and came aross this..

gt3076r dont come with the .70 compressor housing..

but mine says this on the front

post-16535-1266146422_thumb.jpg

is this a 3076r or a 3082r.

garrett tag says p/n 714569 5002

cheers

Hi

This could be a Garrett GT3076 from Sonic Performance.

They sell 2 types of GT3076 turbochargers.

The normal (most popular) GT3076 has a 0.60 Surge slot Compresser housing.

Has a 57mm Inducer with 76mm Exducer compressor wheel

54.98mm exducer turbine wheel

The other option GT3076 has a 0.70 Standard Compressor housing.

Has a 55mm inducer and 76mm exducer Compressor wheel.

53.60 Exducer turbioe wheel

well i had to scrap the hks manifold as there was literally no room! so now im back to the stock manifold and still there is bearly any room.. turbos housing hits power steering lines etc running down the chassis..

has anyone had any issues fitting one to a rb25 R32?

y do they not fit as easy?

ahhhh ready to dump it all...

Try harder

DSC00052.jpg

DSC00045.jpg

DSC00044.jpg

You should be able to keep the air con. From memory i just loosened the bigger of the 2 fittings at the back and rotated the line until it was hard against the strut tower.

I had issues with the power steering reservoir piping so relocated it behind the strut tower, though i know there was a guy in Melbourne that i sold a few bits to that didn't need to relocate it. i think he was using the t04e that came with the manifold originally which has a smaller comp cover.

  • 3 months later...
Good stuff, i'd prefer to call myself skeptic though, but each to their own. :thumbsup:

I'm happy knowing that I've highlighted your factually incorrect statement.

Nothing worse than misleading users of this forum with blatantly wrong information and claims... Claims like Hub dynos are in RWKW - which are wrong.

They are extremely close when you look at back to back testing (in the real world). They just eliminate the wheel spin issues which COULD be why they read higher. That being said if a car is secured properly and has sufficient grip on the dyno this shouldn't be an issue.

And now with teh cams in the Neo donk, I'm sure there is no arguing the power is exactly where it should be. I think 325rwkW at 18psi was the latest result?

Higher comp and extremely mild cams hold the standard Neo's back. With 260 Poncams they destroy the 33 donks :D

  • 9 years later...
On 16/02/2010 at 5:55 PM, Simon-S14 said:

no prob, my sig link has a lot of the build up info also.

My set up is stock Neo 34 rb25 with AM Performance high mount manifold with merge collector, HKS 38mm gate with 3076 56t with the .6 surge slotted housing. .63 rear 4 bolt garret housing.

the rest is basically bolt ons. running nisstune board on stock 34 ecu, fmic, larger injectors and so forth.

my mates set up is a r33 RB25 and has exact same turbo as me, but with tial gate, stock rb25 manifold with am performance adaptor to low mount the turbo, adapter has port for wastegate which sits high up. runs a Rb20 ecu with chip, no vct.

now my mates makes a few rwkw more then mine, both cars tuned on same dyno. however whats interesting to note is that mine makes more torque and earlier in the rev range, and less boost to do it also. Dyno is a dyna pack unit so all runs done without hitting limiter. Mine keeps climbing and making power right to the point where the dyno brake hits where as my mates makes peak power at 6000rpm then starts to fall off.

i put this down to the exhaust manifold and cam differences with our engines. but rest assured for sub 300 rwkw they are awesome even for a basically stock 25 set up!

what psi

 

1 hour ago, luminer34neo6trubo said:

what psi

 

That was 10 years ago - he's probably got married, sold the car and drives a Mazda3 by now!

For some ideas for your car go to the top of this section to the RB25 turbo upgrade section and you should find a few cars with turbos like yours.

  • Haha 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...