Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I got a couple more pictures. Some of an adapter so I can run my standard TPS on the new billet v8 throttle body. The picture wont show the TPS as I left it at work. But its bascially an extended drive that slips over the throttle bodies one and the aluminium adapter plate sits around it so the std TPS can bolt on top and be driven by the new extension. Looks pretty damn good and saved me finding a ford style tps and wiring it in.

Tonight I got a little bit of the intake done. Ran into problems with it at the start. Couldnt run it at the intended width as it was going to leave almost next to no room to run cylinder 2 and 3 primaries out and up. So the way its made now should solve that.

post-12828-1270132944_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1270133014_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1270133080_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1270133141_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1270133179_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1270133246_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1270133298_thumb.jpg

Tomorrow is another day and hopefully I will get the intake done. Well its after 1am, so perhaps today!

Easter break was utterly hopeless. Got next to nothing done. But I do hope everyone had a great break!

However, intake is fully tacked together right upto throttle body flange. So a couple of hours of welding and abit of cleaning up and it will be done!

post-12828-1270641911_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1270642023_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1270642258_thumb.jpg

It was quite difficult and as a result very time consuming/frustrating. Just the pipework for this intake to get upto this point now is something silly like 15hrs. Could very well be a 20hr long item by the time its fully done. Oval pipework which reduces in size is a royal PITA! It steps down from 4" to 2.5" in that last stretch to suit the throttle body flange.

Some more good news I should be getting the new 1000cc ID injectors and 2 x 044 pumps delivered tomorrow hoorah!

wow... that looks fantastic! completely different from anything else. i wonder if putting the tb so far away will create some lag? as the piping, cooler and plenum will not be pressurised when you put your foot down?

cant wait to see this up and running.

cheers, Rowdy.

wow... that looks fantastic! completely different from anything else. i wonder if putting the tb so far away will create some lag? as the piping, cooler and plenum will not be pressurised when you put your foot down?

cant wait to see this up and running.

cheers, Rowdy.

Thanks :P

Yeh thats very possible. My old man has suggested the same idea and I have mulled it over myself. I guess I will find out when its done.

Initially I was planning on leaving the TB in its standard position. However Sprintex told me I should put it before the supercharger and various books and info ive come across have told me the samething. Hopefully they are right and its in an ideal/optimum spot.

Awesome work, really interested in the outcome. Low down power should be wicked. :blink:

Your fab work looks very well done, thanks for documenting the process.

I think you could have the throttle after the charger as long as the bypass opens up and stops the outlet pressure from spiking on throttle closure and lets it freewheel when you are at idle or cruising. I'm no expert though. Did they say why the throttle should be in front?

Yeh I read my supercharger book again and its informed me you need the bypass and throttle setup in that position so at idle and light throttle, where there is no boost the bypass lets air skip past the supercharger or else the supercharger just heats up the air and attached piping/ic unnecessarily which is no good for when you do put your foot down as there is alot of residual heat which shouldnt be there. It did also mention that throttle response is slightly dulled, but apparently its not that bad.

Im not totally positive why you couldnt just leave it in its std spot and then just have the bypass setup so it still does its job properly. But Im not an expert on this either, so I just did what was suggested to me by people who are and hopefully their advice works.

Got the intake fully welded, still needs to be cleaned up inside though. Welded in pipe for the bypass valve on intake side and welded bypass valve plate to supercharger outlet. Did some dummy fitting with radiator and shroud to make sure it all fits ok. Everything is looking good so far!

Still got the boost control valve to go in and gotta sikaflex in the afm and then hopefully I will be starting the exhaust! If all goes to plan I should have all my mandrel bends made by the end of the week. Fingers crossed!

post-12828-1271076935_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1271076991_thumb.jpg

That is sort of what it looks like now.

Thanks. Lol I know. Im pretty damn keen to hear it too.

Did abit more tonight. I welded in my boost control valve and then started on my fuel system.

I got the surge tank fabricated with -8 fittings. I cut a mounting plate for it and the pumps also. Then the nights over and that was about 3.5 hrs worth.

post-12828-1271161444_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1271163311_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1271163680_thumb.jpg

Edited by r33_racer

Some excellent work in this thread, i'd put the TB between the the charger and the plenum personally, but from what i have seen the simpler setup is to have it set up as you do, and you certainly have a lot of welding invested in that setup.

what's Nissan's designation letter for a supercharger out of interest?

i'm still trying to work out the geared drive arrangement on that charger, i take it the counter driven screw spins at ~ twice the speed of the driven screw?

I'd definatly stick the the TB before the blower...look at every positive displacement blower setup on a car whether its OEM or aftermarket they all have the TB before the blower.

I dont knwo of any by-pass valve that would flow enough to keep a blower like that happy....if it were a centrifugal blower like a vortech or powerdyne etc than you would run the throttle body like normal as they barely shift any air at low engine speeds

Thanks Will! There is a shitload of welding involved in that intake/tb setup. If i were doing it again I would do more research into seeing if I could run it as you say to save the amount of fab work involved in it.

Im not sure on the designation for it, but I think Duncan mentioned it back on the first page.

I think the counter driven screw is 1.5 times the driven screw. Well one shaft has 4 lobes and the other 6 from memory, but will have to check that.

yeah sounds about right, i wonder why they run at different speeds, I've never really considered superchargers before but have always wanted to twincharge something.

Looks like the designation is R, so it would be an RB25DER if you believe in renaming engines that never existed :D

oh yeah, dunno if you have seen this vid before but there is a link to their build, might be useful. they have put the TB after the charger but i would still leave yours where it is. (now i check it someone already posted the link to that build diary)

i can still remember the sound 4AGZEs (supercharged 1.6 litre toyota motors) make, its like a 3 pitch tone, sounds totally awesome, though rumour has it they make that sound when they are out of gear oil, so not the best sound to hear.

Edited by SRX720

Yeh twincharging would be the way to go. One of the 2.8L jobs to get you to about 800-900hp and then throw a 2000hp turbo of some kind to take over. I can envisage big power with not so terrible amounts of lag. Would just be a nice big painful experience fitting it all in and engineering it so it works nice.

StockyMcstock did it ages ago and I was fortunate enough to go for a spin in it and it was insane. Though it wasnt that exact combination. I think it was a small eatons with a gt40 on a fandangled steampipe manifold he made himself. It is a fancy setup and worked a treat! It was damp or rainy that morning and it was quite loose!

I should make a fancy coil pack cover with the new designation on it....mmmmm Cheers for the idea Will!

Yeh ive seen that video and the whole build thread on the GTR UK forums and on a couple of others they posted it on. It was their build that inspired me to actually look into this in the first place. Abit of research into these superchargers and I got sucked right in!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...