Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I got a couple more pictures. Some of an adapter so I can run my standard TPS on the new billet v8 throttle body. The picture wont show the TPS as I left it at work. But its bascially an extended drive that slips over the throttle bodies one and the aluminium adapter plate sits around it so the std TPS can bolt on top and be driven by the new extension. Looks pretty damn good and saved me finding a ford style tps and wiring it in.

Tonight I got a little bit of the intake done. Ran into problems with it at the start. Couldnt run it at the intended width as it was going to leave almost next to no room to run cylinder 2 and 3 primaries out and up. So the way its made now should solve that.

post-12828-1270132944_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1270133014_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1270133080_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1270133141_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1270133179_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1270133246_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1270133298_thumb.jpg

Tomorrow is another day and hopefully I will get the intake done. Well its after 1am, so perhaps today!

Easter break was utterly hopeless. Got next to nothing done. But I do hope everyone had a great break!

However, intake is fully tacked together right upto throttle body flange. So a couple of hours of welding and abit of cleaning up and it will be done!

post-12828-1270641911_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1270642023_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1270642258_thumb.jpg

It was quite difficult and as a result very time consuming/frustrating. Just the pipework for this intake to get upto this point now is something silly like 15hrs. Could very well be a 20hr long item by the time its fully done. Oval pipework which reduces in size is a royal PITA! It steps down from 4" to 2.5" in that last stretch to suit the throttle body flange.

Some more good news I should be getting the new 1000cc ID injectors and 2 x 044 pumps delivered tomorrow hoorah!

wow... that looks fantastic! completely different from anything else. i wonder if putting the tb so far away will create some lag? as the piping, cooler and plenum will not be pressurised when you put your foot down?

cant wait to see this up and running.

cheers, Rowdy.

wow... that looks fantastic! completely different from anything else. i wonder if putting the tb so far away will create some lag? as the piping, cooler and plenum will not be pressurised when you put your foot down?

cant wait to see this up and running.

cheers, Rowdy.

Thanks :P

Yeh thats very possible. My old man has suggested the same idea and I have mulled it over myself. I guess I will find out when its done.

Initially I was planning on leaving the TB in its standard position. However Sprintex told me I should put it before the supercharger and various books and info ive come across have told me the samething. Hopefully they are right and its in an ideal/optimum spot.

Awesome work, really interested in the outcome. Low down power should be wicked. :blink:

Your fab work looks very well done, thanks for documenting the process.

I think you could have the throttle after the charger as long as the bypass opens up and stops the outlet pressure from spiking on throttle closure and lets it freewheel when you are at idle or cruising. I'm no expert though. Did they say why the throttle should be in front?

Yeh I read my supercharger book again and its informed me you need the bypass and throttle setup in that position so at idle and light throttle, where there is no boost the bypass lets air skip past the supercharger or else the supercharger just heats up the air and attached piping/ic unnecessarily which is no good for when you do put your foot down as there is alot of residual heat which shouldnt be there. It did also mention that throttle response is slightly dulled, but apparently its not that bad.

Im not totally positive why you couldnt just leave it in its std spot and then just have the bypass setup so it still does its job properly. But Im not an expert on this either, so I just did what was suggested to me by people who are and hopefully their advice works.

Got the intake fully welded, still needs to be cleaned up inside though. Welded in pipe for the bypass valve on intake side and welded bypass valve plate to supercharger outlet. Did some dummy fitting with radiator and shroud to make sure it all fits ok. Everything is looking good so far!

Still got the boost control valve to go in and gotta sikaflex in the afm and then hopefully I will be starting the exhaust! If all goes to plan I should have all my mandrel bends made by the end of the week. Fingers crossed!

post-12828-1271076935_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1271076991_thumb.jpg

That is sort of what it looks like now.

Thanks. Lol I know. Im pretty damn keen to hear it too.

Did abit more tonight. I welded in my boost control valve and then started on my fuel system.

I got the surge tank fabricated with -8 fittings. I cut a mounting plate for it and the pumps also. Then the nights over and that was about 3.5 hrs worth.

post-12828-1271161444_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1271163311_thumb.jpg

post-12828-1271163680_thumb.jpg

Edited by r33_racer

Some excellent work in this thread, i'd put the TB between the the charger and the plenum personally, but from what i have seen the simpler setup is to have it set up as you do, and you certainly have a lot of welding invested in that setup.

what's Nissan's designation letter for a supercharger out of interest?

i'm still trying to work out the geared drive arrangement on that charger, i take it the counter driven screw spins at ~ twice the speed of the driven screw?

I'd definatly stick the the TB before the blower...look at every positive displacement blower setup on a car whether its OEM or aftermarket they all have the TB before the blower.

I dont knwo of any by-pass valve that would flow enough to keep a blower like that happy....if it were a centrifugal blower like a vortech or powerdyne etc than you would run the throttle body like normal as they barely shift any air at low engine speeds

Thanks Will! There is a shitload of welding involved in that intake/tb setup. If i were doing it again I would do more research into seeing if I could run it as you say to save the amount of fab work involved in it.

Im not sure on the designation for it, but I think Duncan mentioned it back on the first page.

I think the counter driven screw is 1.5 times the driven screw. Well one shaft has 4 lobes and the other 6 from memory, but will have to check that.

yeah sounds about right, i wonder why they run at different speeds, I've never really considered superchargers before but have always wanted to twincharge something.

Looks like the designation is R, so it would be an RB25DER if you believe in renaming engines that never existed :D

oh yeah, dunno if you have seen this vid before but there is a link to their build, might be useful. they have put the TB after the charger but i would still leave yours where it is. (now i check it someone already posted the link to that build diary)

i can still remember the sound 4AGZEs (supercharged 1.6 litre toyota motors) make, its like a 3 pitch tone, sounds totally awesome, though rumour has it they make that sound when they are out of gear oil, so not the best sound to hear.

Edited by SRX720

Yeh twincharging would be the way to go. One of the 2.8L jobs to get you to about 800-900hp and then throw a 2000hp turbo of some kind to take over. I can envisage big power with not so terrible amounts of lag. Would just be a nice big painful experience fitting it all in and engineering it so it works nice.

StockyMcstock did it ages ago and I was fortunate enough to go for a spin in it and it was insane. Though it wasnt that exact combination. I think it was a small eatons with a gt40 on a fandangled steampipe manifold he made himself. It is a fancy setup and worked a treat! It was damp or rainy that morning and it was quite loose!

I should make a fancy coil pack cover with the new designation on it....mmmmm Cheers for the idea Will!

Yeh ive seen that video and the whole build thread on the GTR UK forums and on a couple of others they posted it on. It was their build that inspired me to actually look into this in the first place. Abit of research into these superchargers and I got sucked right in!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...