Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Update time.

So over the last two weeks ive rebuilt the motor. I got some new rings as my old ones were shot from an overheat I had before I started the supercharger project, it was a failed waterpump that caused it. Got some sweet new conrods from Spool (Brad) and a collar and pump. Thanks Brad. He is a top bloke and has great affordable parts. Also got some second hand valve springs out of the race car head which were better then my factory springs.

The last two weeks have pretty much consisted of pulling the motor out and stripping it to get the crank polished and collar fitted. Drilling and tapping the main oil gallery in the block to suit some bspt grubscrews front and back, drilling and tapping the crank and cleaning all the crud out of it, honing the bores in the block so the rings have a fresh cross hatch to bed in, gapping the new rings, checking main and big end clearances, balancing the conrods and pistons and then assembling it all. I stripped the head and cleaned it all out and then fitted the new valve springs and put it all back together except camshafts. I want to get a set of kelfords or camtech cams while its apart. But I gotta wait until they get off holidays. Then I just need to modify this sump and I can fully seal it all up and chuck it back in so I can continue working on the twincharging stage.

However while its out ive been dummy fitting the turbo and I got the flange supported roughly where I want it with the turbo bolted up to see how its going to all fit and work. Its looking pretty promising at the moment. So far so good!

Anyway here are some photos of everything so far. Note that I did write a much much longer post about everything in a lot of detail but I accidentally hit back on the mouse and it all got wiped. Its too late for me to go writing it all again so this is the shortened version. Hopefully the picures will explain it all better.

post-12828-0-57370700-1293722092_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-75783700-1293722236_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-80164000-1293722270_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-56044500-1293722337_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-81223900-1293722377_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-41923000-1293722423_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-58082300-1293722458_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-79938900-1293722500_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-36449900-1293722553_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-73305600-1293722587_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-89396600-1293722668_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-11176000-1293722704_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-22174200-1293722746_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-53398500-1293722788_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-19460900-1293722825_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-11126900-1293722853_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-55858500-1293722880_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-10184600-1293722911_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-80336600-1293723078_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-69959000-1293723112_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-87930600-1293723151_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-19415100-1293723183_thumb.jpg

lol I would like to have my own race car that is purely of my own ideas and none of dads. As im sure you know he doesnt let me do many if any of the crazy ideas I come up with.

How did you like the new setup with the race car Noel? Doesnt the mechanical fuel pump look trick? Lol can thank the gibson motorsport GTRs at lakeside that day for that one! I tidied up the boot and fuel system. Remade the tank in stainless which came out pretty good, lol dont like the surge tank though, its made of 0.9mm thick s.s and that is a bastard to weld. But the boot looks a whole lot nicer now with fewers pumps and a much nicer tank!

lol I would like to have my own race car that is purely of my own ideas and none of dads. As im sure you know he doesnt let me do many if any of the crazy ideas I come up with.

How did you like the new setup with the race car Noel? Doesnt the mechanical fuel pump look trick? Lol can thank the gibson motorsport GTRs at lakeside that day for that one! I tidied up the boot and fuel system. Remade the tank in stainless which came out pretty good, lol dont like the surge tank though, its made of 0.9mm thick s.s and that is a bastard to weld. But the boot looks a whole lot nicer now with fewers pumps and a much nicer tank!

Very impressive Mike. the fit and finish is equal to anything available from any where in the world.

You guys are really getting a handle on the cnc shit for sure. Now all we have to do is transform these cars from bloody shed ornaments to actual track cars. :whistling:

Yeh im hoping the compressor housing and wheel will muffle the noise as the charger sucks through it.

I also got to machine up another pulley to slow the charger down which im hoping will help reduce its noise as it wont be spinning as fast. trying to drop it down to about 8000-9000rpm from the current 14000rpm.

Spent half the day making the merge collector. It came out pretty good. I made it with a 25 degree merge angle to help keep it all low and spread out so it should make it easier to plumb up with the little room I have between the flange and bonnet.

The rest of the day I spent nutting out the sump mods. Got a mud map drawn up and found a strip of mild steel sheet which should be big enough to do the job. Only got the pan cut off ready to be cleaned up to take the new extension after I fabricate it.

Time to go home and get wasted! Happy New Years peoples! :)

post-12828-0-61922600-1293780891_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-13650700-1293780903_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-81051800-1293780929_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-37963600-1293780955_thumb.jpg

post-12828-0-75941000-1293780968_thumb.jpg

I wish I had a workshop and all of the tools you have at your disposal...

Can't wait to see how it goes twin charged, although, if you're slowing down the compressor, won't you be removing the available boost at lower RPM as it won't be forcing as much air in at that point in time?

Yeh I am lucky to have access to all the machinery and tools at work. It certainly makes doing these kind of custom projects easier.

I dont know if ill really be losing that much boost down low, as the belt was slipping before and made x amount of boost, im guessing by turning it slower and having less load on the belt without it slipping I may just make similar boost. But I wont need to make that much out of it anyway since it will multiply whatever the turbo adds into the mix. Having the superchargers intake vacuum helping spool the turbo plus the added exhaust gases from the down load boost will also help spool the turbo I dont think there will be much to worry about in terms of losing down low power.

Rolls its a Mr Turbo T76 I think. He tells me its rated at about 850-900hp.

From memory i think its a 1.4 PR.

I was running it at its max rpm before. Only dropping it a couple thousand rpm. They only take about 1500rpm to make positive pressure, so I would think they can make some boost at about 10,000rpm. Which is about as slow as I can get it after seeing how small a pulley I can fit on the drive. I dont think I will hit the 8000-9000rpm I was aiming for.

I guess I will find out when its running just what boost it develops. Just gotta disconnect the turbo from the intake and give it a rev.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...