Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

haha I'm here! Yeah, Noel and Mike are spot on. Im stretched a little thin atm. However I have fixed the issues I had on the dyno the first time. Its just a matter of getting time to go back to finish off the tuning. Currently fabricating a whole exhaust system on my old mans HR holden w/ stroked LS1 to 383CI, then I have my uncles 56' chevy to fit new 434CI stroked small block into and fab up exhaust system and fuel system. After that is Dads 57' chevy which a 632CI BBC with a 4L80e box to go into it and then exhaust system and fuel system to suit. The two Chevy's need to be done before April for a charity event we were hoping to attend at Harry's.

So my car has gone on the burner again until further notice unfortunately! If I get some time in the next couple of weeks I will attempt to get it tuned!

  • 8 months later...

Sorry to say fellas that I ended up quitting on this. I did finish it and got it all going, but it was an absolute pig to drive. I couldn't get the change over from off boost to on boost with the bypass valve to work very well. I spent a fair bit of time trying different valves and setups trying to make it more drive-able. It was just taking too long to try and get it to a level where I would be happy with it.

My apologies for the disappointment peoples! If I had more free time and absolutely no social life or girlfriend then I would attempt to perfect it all, but this is just not feasible. I really hate to be a quitter...its killed me a little on the inside not being able to get it all to work how I was hoping. :(

Anyway. the car is on the back burner at the moment. The back up plan is to go to a big single and just pump out some laggy horsepower for fun.... of course when time presents itself!

How does every other supercharger in the world work then, they don't seem to have any fancy things to make them idle ok, do they all just have a low speed air bypass valve or something?

Even if you just wired a recirculation line with a very small bore eg 1/2 inch from the intake to the discharge this would recirculate air at idle and at high boost would only recirculate a little bit.

Edited by Rolls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...