Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hear is the list of his mods:

Trust T78-29D 14cm installed for quick spool up on the 2,700 engine, very high response even in town driving.

2,7L specification

HKS 87mm forged piston kit

HKS con rod and crank metals

HKS STEP 2 camshafts (264/272)

HKS sliding cam pulley

HKS strengthening valve spring

HKS Head gasket 1.6mm

Dynamic balanced crankshaft

Head ported and polished

Combustion chamber process (squish area removed)

Block bored to run the HKS 87mm forged pistons

TRUST T78-29D 14cm turbine

TRUST racing External waste gate TYPE-R

TRUST front pipe

Trust exhaust manifold

Essential OIL catch tank

SARD 700CC injectors

SARD FUEL PUMP RELAY

NISMO fuel pumps ×2

SARD fuel pump wiring KIT×2

SARD Fuel pressure regulator

HKS fuel rail

EAARLS fuel line

ARC pre- stage - R

SARD low temperature thermostat

Aluminium radiator cooling panel

GReddy upper radiator pipe

FULL STAGE full titanium Exhaust system (custom made)

HKS superpower flow

APEX ECV

HKS TYPE-R 3 layer intercooler

HKS intercooler piping

ARC twin core aluminium radiator

Drive train/Brakes/Suspension:

ATS Twin plate clutch

AP MINE'S 6 pot brake callipers front

355MM 2 piece brake rotors

BREMBO standard rear brakes

SEIDOYA brake pads

Stainless steel mesh brake lines

NISMO 1.5way LSD

PRO Drive 18 inch Alloys

265/35R18 93W - Bridgestone Potenza RE55S (Semi-Slick)

CUSCO front upper arm

TEIN pillow ball tension rods

QUANTUM coil over suspension

CARROZZERIA CD player

Latter-term type projector HID headlights

Racing gear 6500 Kelvin HID (Hi&Lo)

Optional OIL cooler duct in bumper

N1 front bumper duct

N1 front hood top mall

NISMO side step

NISMO rear bumper

Endless FRP Bonnet

HKS F-CON V gold PRO

Blitz dual SBC boost controller

TRUST turbo timer

Defi link controller

Defi oil pressure gauge

Defi Oil temperature gauge

Defi water Temperature gauge

Defi boost gage

NISMO full scale 320KM meter

NISMO gauges

Roll cage (new)

MOMO competition steering wheel

DU-LUCK rear cross bar

DU-LUCK rear floor bar

BRIDE ZETA-III drivers seat

Can't wait to get home. Gonna polish up my exhaust and give my interior a good clean. Getting new seatbelts tomorrow.

I love being able to work on a car again :ninja: Even if it's just detailing. The Supra has always been way too immaculate to change anything.

It looks like it was just overfill :ninja: I'll have a look under it again when I finish work but I'm 99% sure it's all good :banana:

Goes in for the RWC on Monday so hopefully not too many unknown issues.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...