Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lol and Juliette we have a mate with a turbo pulsar likes yours. f**king quick too. Beat leighs gtr. He paid $4000 to get it where it is. Sr20det too

lol when did it beat my gtr? it kept up.. never went past me though im sure down the quarter mile my awd 6k rpm launch would eat it >_< plus my cars completely stock atm

I think I'm queen of breaking that rule. Over $80,000 on a car that cost me $10,000. But I've had it for a long time.

you know for $90k you could almost buy 2 R34 GTR's?

smell that? That's the harsh stench of reality. seriously though, I dunno why some of you guys pour so much money into a depreciating asset that isn't even a limited edition or the top of the line in its range.

lol when did it beat my gtr? it kept up.. never went past me though im sure down the quarter mile my awd 6k rpm launch would eat it >_< plus my cars completely stock atm

great story bro.

no one cares.

i guess some people just buy what they can at the time.. thinking that they wont spend much on it.. that or they hate paying back like a 40k loan for a 34GTR initially even though after time they have spent more then it

anyway to make those pulsars 4wd? like using gti-r running gear? would be really awesome then

Yup - mate from Uni did it. Cut out the floor pan from both cars and swapped the gtir floor pan over, then had to extend it to the end of the car.

He sold it before it was engineered though

Yup - mate from Uni did it. Cut out the floor pan from both cars and swapped the gtir floor pan over, then had to extend it to the end of the car.

He sold it before it was engineered though

Didn't nissan sell a bluebird (pulsar sedan) with the GTiR running gear from factory?

Haha would be ey. It torque steers like crazy. And from the ouside it looks like a little slow pulsar that can kill a lot of cars. Sure leaves a massive WTF look when it kills v8s

Yes to this! My friend picked up an N14 for $8000 in some rural town lol. Had a GTIR SR20 in it running 17psi (and the standard SSS gearbox LOL). With 5 people in the car we waved goodbye to an SS ute on its maiden voyage. If you want a fast car buy one that's already been done. I hate to agree with Shan's cold attitude towards modifying cars but after spending lots of money on cars myself the "do it yourself" feeling is very muchly overrated when you can buy someone elses waste of money for 1/5th the spending.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...