Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dude, I just spent $700 repairing these wheels. If I sold them I would even get what I paid for them (which was too much for starters). :laugh:

Will definitely make the wheels wider if it's cheap enough.

whitehorse industries i think its called?

for real, i feel bad for you come in here ask for advice and get burnt to a crisp everytime.

sell the wheels u got now, get the right wheels through streeter or something worth the wait and save ya self f**kin around.

:laugh:

probably the most worthwhile post i've ever made, someone quote this shit.

there

Dude, I just spent $700 repairing these wheels. If I sold them I would even get what I paid for them (which was too much for starters). :laugh:

Will definitely make the wheels wider if it's cheap enough.

make wheels wider?

even if it is possible, it wouldnt be cheap

Sweet! This sounds like a good option..

I really don't want to sell my current wheels after spending so much money getting them repaired and redone in a custom colour.

Edited by jezza boii
Sweet! This sounds like a good option..

I really don't want to sell my current wheels after spending so much money getting them repaired and redone in a custom colour.

except that the wheels that you've got can't be widened. good luck with that.

I won't say the business that I bought the wheels through.. but I was expecting them to be in good condition.

Turns out they were structurally damaged and needed extensive repair work.

Wheels were: $1650

Repair: $700

Tires: $1100

So around $3500 all up. Worth over 40% of the car price haha...

I won't say the business that I bought the wheels through.. but I was expecting them to be in good condition.

Turns out they were structurally damaged and needed extensive repair work.

Wheels were: $1650

Repair: $700

Tires: $1100

So around $3500 all up. Worth over 40% of the car price haha...

why didn't you test fit beforehand? :laugh:

why didn't you test fit beforehand? :blink:

Coz I paid for them before they even landed in Australia.. Plus I knew the rears would be tucked in. These are the wheels that Hamish suggested I get. He said I would want a 10mm spacer though.

N00b question.... Would it hurt to have a little bit of positive camber in the rears? So they look wider than they really are? And then a little bit of negative camber in the front?

Or would that make the car handle like a bag of dicks?

do not run positive camber in the rears. It'll mean when you corner your rear wheels will have minimal contact with the surface. your car is already snap oversteering inclined cos all your weight is on the rear, guess what happens when you have no grip as well in the rear?

Find a 10mm spacer and STFU

10mm/15mm bolt on spacer. then STFU, get your balls in a bunch and roll your guards. do it or I will punch you in your sandy, fickle, good advice ignoring vagina. yes, this justaposition implies you're a hermaphrodite. deal w/ it.

Or cut your losses, sell the wheels and actually buy ones that will fit instead of ghettoing it up, and getting cheap shit on a whim that it may fit.

Where do I get a 10mm spacer with hubcentric rings to suit? I could find any. That's the only reason I went for the 20mm

I really can't afford to count my losses.. I'm running out of cash very quickly. Still need to get a new gearbox and address the rust that is starting to appear.

Edited by jezza boii

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=406553

15mm then man up and roll the guard.

you can get 10mm from the US/Japan, but expect to pay a lot more.

Like these:

Ichiba_NS50210_1_12869.jpg

Ichiba_NS50210_2_12869.jpg

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=406553

15mm then man up and roll the guard.

you can get 10mm from the US/Japan, but expect to pay a lot more.

Like these:

Rear guards are already rolled. Wouldn't they need to be flared though? My fronts hit the guard like a mofo and they're only sticking out 6mm.

15mm spacers in the rear would mean 10+mm out of the guard.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...