Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

f**king tyrejoints are shit. 3 didnt know what hub rings are, 2 say that they dont do em, 1 told me i dont need em. f**kers

bahahaha now what did himish tell you? :P

go to the wreckers

tyre joints shouldnt stock them, ive been to tyre joints before and they dont stock them unfortunatly

some do... some dont...

even I think that is a sweeping generalisation

Ham, nice motor.

iPhone is finally unlocked at the comfort of my desk - thanks Nick aka WGNPWR for his help.

Just bought myself a pair of nismo AFMs, injectors. Now, I'm umm-ahhing about turbo upgrade twins or single is the question...

I could be wrong here ... and probably am. But doesnt it stop oily air being plumbed back into the intake?

which should stop oily buildup in your intake pipes

yeah pretty much, removes oil in air lines.

f**king tyrejoints are shit. 3 didnt know what hub rings are, 2 say that they dont do em, 1 told me i dont need em. f**kers

wtf u doing man. I told you several pages ago. Email http://www.speedywheels.com.au/ and tell them your diametre of the hole in the centre of wheel and the diametre of the axle hub. They then will send you 4 plastic rings for $10~ and it will be in your fkn mail box the next day

Shan, stop confusing everyone with your leetness. Simple solution, if you got second hand aftermarket rims, get some hub-locating rings if there is a gap.

Hub Location - Alloy Wheels

The hub hole is the hole in the centre of the wheel which mates with the centre hub of the car.

By not locating a wheel on the cars’ centre bore, the vehicle can sometimes encounter vibration problems.

All Speedy alloy wheels are either supplied with centre bore locating rings or are machined to be a perfect fit with the vehicles hub to completely eliminate any of the above mentioned scenarios.

hub-location.jpg

I could be wrong here ... and probably am. But doesnt it stop oily air being plumbed back into the intake?

which should stop oily buildup in your intake pipes

remove your AFM, stick hand down intake pipe. Remove hand to see coated in oil. Thats what the catchcan tries to catch before it goes through your turbo, intercooler and engine.

*facepalm* look at the diagram that you just posted and the diagrams I posted above and figure out what type of wheel Speedy is referring to.

whatever, just do what you want.

remove your AFM, stick hand down intake pipe. Remove hand to see coated in oil. Thats what the catchcan tries to catch before it goes through your turbo, intercooler and engine.

oh noes, oil in the engine!

*facepalm* look at the diagram that you just posted and the diagrams I posted above and figure out what type of wheel Speedy is referring to.

whatever, just do what you want.

oh noes, oil in the engine!

wtf you on about? the majority of any aftermarket rims arent lug centric and will require hub locating rings. The best they will do is have the diametre the same as the axle hub (for example LMGT4's are direct fit onto the axle hub)

and oil in engine is referring to having an oily air intake...

wtf you on about? the majority of any aftermarket rims arent lug centric and will require hub locating rings. The best they will do is have the diametre the same as the axle hub (for example LMGT4's are direct fit onto the axle hub)

lol actually most aftermarket rims are lug centric and not hub centric so that one wheel can be used on multiple brands of cars with the same PCD but differing hub centre diameters. Some may use hub rings for reinforcement if they have say not enough material around the lugs to take the stress, but no manufacturer is retarded enough to make a non hubcentric AND non lug centric wheel.

NISMO LMGT4's are hub centric because they're commissioned by Nissan from Rays FOR NISSANS ONLY.

lol actually most aftermarket rims are lug centric and not hub centric so that one wheel can be used on multiple brands of cars with the same PCD but differing hub centre diameters. Some may use hub rings for reinforcement if they have say not enough material around the lugs to take the stress, but no manufacturer is retarded enough to make a non hubcentric AND non lug centric wheel.

NISMO LMGT4's are hub centric because they're commissioned by Nissan from Rays FOR NISSANS ONLY.

just cause it can be used between multiple brands of cars doesnt mean they have put the effort to make them a lug centric design. Speedy Wheels for example proves that. Lets say that even if the rim is lug centric design, i believe there will be no damage caused when using hub locating rings. After all, the rings just position the wheel into the centre of the hub. If you then screwed in the wheel nuts, they will go directly in and not push the wheel into the centre as it is already there. Therefore the nuts will serve their purpose of holding the wheel in place...

Hence for anyone who is unsure, hub locating rings will just make fitting of the wheels easier even if you have a lug centric wheel..

yes i know they made for nissan, why else would i say thats the best ive seen for an aftermarket fitment...

bahahaha now what did himish tell you? :thumbsup:

umm i forget. what?

i'll let you ppl figure this hub thing out for me. in the meantime, the centercaps on my wheels are held on by 8 allen bolts. which also happen to be slightly seized. ergo - wheels cant be balanced. fuuuuuuuu. wd40 has been applied, will attempt removal again tomorrow.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...