Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok hang on so the $2802 is what i pay per year and the "excess" which is $1600 is what i pay in an event of an accident etc? 3046 much safer than 3047 :P

what do yous pay then for your premiums?

With Shannons, Rating 1;

Cube - daily use cover, Skyline - extreme limited use cover, Pulsar - laid-up cover, approx. $170 per month.

If one's ecr33 diff has gone from a twin spinner to a single spinner akin to that of a VN commodore, what should one do?

options are:

shim

weld

replace with GTR diff

replace with real diff

all of these better than standard diff

options are:

shim

weld

replace with GTR diff

replace with real diff

all of these better than standard diff

Replace with GTR diff you say?

What benefit would this have over say, a train... which i can also afford.

options are:

shim

weld

replace with GTR diff

replace with real diff

all of these better than standard diff

Shim = what i will be doing

Weld = f**k that

GTR diff = will need to replace both half shafts as GTR is 6 bolt and GTST is 5 bolt

Replace with real diff = expensive and if u buy a shit one like i did it will explode nicely LOL

$10/month X 12 months = $120

is this your r33 or? why so cheap you must have a spotless license or something..

u think thats bad i remember being quoted somewhere round 5-6k full comp back in 2003 as a p plater r34 gtt think just cars or shannons.....

now $290 third party just cars.....

not surprised for a p plater i dont know what p plater would be able to afford that just for insurance anyway

With Shannons, Rating 1;

Cube - daily use cover, Skyline - extreme limited use cover, Pulsar - laid-up cover, approx. $170 per month.

thats not too bad for 3 cars but why do you need 3 cars for :/ i can understand 2 if you had 1 daily in which case i'd get a shitter thats not even worth insuring so i'd still only pay for 1

On a scale of 1 to Miley Cyrus, how illegal is shimming a diff?

you can shim a diff as tightly as you want, you can shim it for minimum lock or shim it so that it skips like a 2 way. Up to you.

With legality, its like anything if cops see it skipping they might say something, i have never had a prob with cops with the 2 way, they saw it skipping along the ground and didnt say anything

options are:

shim

weld

replace with GTR diff

replace with real diff

all of these better than standard diff

just went out for a drive to prac my heel and toe technique.......master :whistling: i notice that my diff feels a bit sad maybe its these f@#%in ku36's dnt like em time to get a real

diff nismo 1.5 or 2 way? yea boiii...

3 litre is probably cheaper

f**k welding the diff or GTR diff

either shim your current one or new kazz centre or nismo centre

do it once and do it properly

stuff changing in / out 2nd hand parts etc

kaaz 1.5

do it and you can thank me later.

shimming's good fun if you own a beat up 32, but if you want it to last, do it properly. Put it this way... ALL the power you make has to go through it. If you wanna wager that on a $1.50 shim go nuts.

shimming just increases the bite point of your viscous, which means there's still slip, as time goes on it'll wear down and cark your diff. Guaranteed. Unless you're prepared to pull down and flush pumpkins after every track day or major fang session.

kaaz 1.5

do it and you can thank me later.

shimming's good fun if you own a beat up 32, but if you want it to last, do it properly. Put it this way... ALL the power you make has to go through it. If you wanna wager that on a $1.50 shim go nuts.

shimming just increases the bite point of your viscous, which means there's still slip, as time goes on it'll wear down and cark your diff. Guaranteed. Unless you're prepared to pull down and flush pumpkins after every track day or major fang session.

why kazz? they better?

just went out for a drive to prac my heel and toe technique.......master :whistling: i notice that my diff feels a bit sad maybe its these f@#%in ku36's dnt like em time to get a real

diff nismo 1.5 or 2 way? yea boiii...

??? how else do you drive around? I heel/toe for daily driving.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...