Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thats the joke..

i found in in a stack of papers while cleaning my car and thought, OHH SWEET 150AWKW! was atttached to a sheet saying it was leaning out and shit

then hamish is like, thats 70kws dude..

70kw atw for a rb20det? wtf is wrong with it.

They make at least 130kw atw bog stock. An exhaust and intercooler gets you to about 160kw O_o

The dyno sheet says r32 GTS (minus the -t for turbo) and the graphs dont appear to look correct for a turbo car?

I don't know whether to keep my car at my grandparents place for the next few years until I get back to Aus and the turn it into a trackcar, or just sell it now.

What to do, what to do... Suggestions?

You're joking yeah? You're not actually considering that as an actual option are you?

It's a fuckin car, not your first-born. Letting it sit depreciating is a totally homo move.

Don't mean to offend you, but it's a 33 GTS-T, it's not something rare. Why the f**k would you even consider having ~$10k sitting there for a few years to one day, maybe, turn it into a track car when you come back...

But I'm sure you were just joking, because any half wit would understand that parking $10k in a garage for 3 years to maybe turn it into a track car is the most ludicrous thought one could have. That same half wit would know that $10k in your bank account when heading overseas is far more beneficial than a $10k garage ornament that will be worth $3k when you get back to turn it into a track car, losing ~$7k worth of potential track mods in the process.

Tough decision though..

70kw atw for a rb20det? wtf is wrong with it.

They make at least 130kw atw bog stock. An exhaust and intercooler gets you to about 160kw O_o

The dyno sheet says r32 GTS (minus the -t for turbo) and the graphs dont appear to look correct for a turbo car?

It was leaning out and had a boost leak.

Gone now so meh.

You're joking yeah? You're not actually considering that as an actual option are you?

Don't mean to offend you, but it's a 33 GTS-T, it's not something rare. Why the f**k would you even consider having ~$10k sitting there for a few years to one day, maybe, turn it into a track car when you come back...

But I'm sure you were just joking, because any half wit would understand that parking $10k in a garage for 3 years to maybe turn it into a track car is the most ludicrous thought one could have. That same half wit would know that $10k in your bank account when heading overseas is far more beneficial than a $10k garage ornament that will be worth $3k when you get back to turn it into a track car, losing ~$7k worth of potential track mods in the process.

Tough decision though..

+20 reps.

you make me laugh man :thumbsup:

17x9.5+17 currently for sale for $1300, bargain and will look sick ;)

fk oath do it will look shit hot, did he have spacers on teh rear for the +38

$1300 is a steal

fk oath do it will look shit hot, did he have spacers on teh rear for the +38

$1300 is a steal

nah spacers not required. Thats how it sits with 10inch +38.

Ive seen a pair of 17x9.5 +17 for $1300 and a pair of 18x10 +38 for $1000

$2300 all up from two sellers.

Have seen a set go recently for $2000. Prob cheaper to import from Japland too

edit: just saw thats a set for $1300. Bronze though :(

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...