Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

haven't had a look yet but my ex used to do them at home so can't be too hard right?

hah yeh try to get ANYTHING done right before easter long weekend.. not happening.. seems easier to do it myself as usual, besides then when something is fckd I know what it is :) I don't have to go back in there 500 times to get them to fix their crap...

i have never seen a car u can change a pad without removing the caliper. Do they exist?

Look its pretty easy

remove wheel

undo 2 bolts that hold caliper on and remove

unclip and remove pads

push pistons back in, helps if you remove the reservoir cap

put in new pads and refit calipers

also, if I don't take it to a good friend.. they will *guaranteed* tell me I need new rotors, whether I do or not, AND I need to mount a speedboat onto my radiator fan because otherwise a wheel bearing will go flying out of the passenger footwell and take out the fuel pump on it's way..

If I even try to argue that logic a little bit then they become defensive real quick.. randoms are unable to do exactly what they're asked and only that.. guaranteed they will find an african elephant in an intake pipe that needs a new turbo to fix, because I'm a woman, what would I know??

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...