Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't think it's a case of how long it will last, moreso how it will break. We pulled the head off on the weekend, pistons were absolutely mint, no detonation marks at all.

We're thinking it will be conrod or gudgeon pin related when it fails. Either way we're looking forward to seeing how.

It is our development car, and we have a BC 2.2L bottom end assembled ready to go when it goes boom!

As mentioned previously, we will offer free tuning to a donor RB25DET owner wanting to put one on a 5557 purchased from us. Don't be shy guys :verymad: If we had an RB25 as one of our project cars it would be on it!

Other side of Australia so no chance of that haha

What are the housing sizes on these things like, I assume you would need a spacer to bolt onto a standard RB25 manifold?

I tried (not to that extent) with my 3037S with a 1.12 a/r rear. It made 376kW on 25psi on my SR, we didn't got further as the boost line started to fall. I think that all I would have been doing is overspooling it.

I don't think it's a case of how long it will last, moreso how it will break. We pulled the head off on the weekend, pistons were absolutely mint, no detonation marks at all.

We're thinking it will be conrod or gudgeon pin related when it fails. Either way we're looking forward to seeing how.

It is our development car, and we have a BC 2.2L bottom end assembled ready to go when it goes boom!

Very interested to see the mode of failure when it does go, could you post a thread up for all of us to see if (when) it does fail?

As mentioned previously, we will offer free tuning to a donor RB25DET owner wanting to put one on a 5557 purchased from us. Don't be shy guys :) If we had an RB25 as one of our project cars it would be on it!

Wow, good offer kemp, someone should take up on this offer :D

  • 2 weeks later...

Just to let you know guys, we are now offering the 62 and 67 range with divided split pulse T4 housings. This is something new from Precision, I'm sure it will make it a lot more attractive for some of you with twin scroll setups! We have .84 in stock and are able to offer 1.00 and .70

  • 2 weeks later...

We supply the whole billet range from the 5557 to 6765 comes with a 0.70 a/r comp cover, however we can special order the non ported covers which have a 2.8" intake, as far as I'm aware they are a 0.60a/r front, similar to a 3076R in size.

  • 2 weeks later...

Well after some Friday arvo beers I managed to Gee the boss up pretty hard, basically I stressed that there was no point in us going out to get kicked off for a mid 10, let's try to run a 9....

So, I came back around 30 seconds later with a 6262SP in hand and it didn't take much convincing. Friday was a party here at Powertune, music cranking, cashews, chips, and within a very short time the turbo was on and the Red Dragon was getting reversed onto the rollers.

Had a solid 5 passes on the dyno, but we knew the 6262 needed a bit more boost to get it in the zone, though 45psi didn't agree with something in the engine! It filled number 2 and 3 with water so we're thinking it's either lifted the head again or cracked the block around a water jacket.

Anyway, I've rocked up here this morning and the engine is out, and 2.2L stroker in ready to go, in fact they're finish up the install of the built engine now with the 6262SP on. Get ready for round 2 :)

ncsd5.jpg

We were getting frustrated with it living :)

The other passes were on a lower boost setting

Well it copped the initial load, then unleashed the tyres with 3 of us in the back which it has never done, it did hold 45psi flat though.

It would have definitely been over 430kW, I'd say 450kW at a guess. Sadly we'll never know!

Will keep you updated when we crack it open to find out the truth

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...