Jump to content
SAU Community

Precision Billet Turbos

R32GTR/Iceland
 Share

Recommended Posts

donut_kng Experienced

donut_kng

Posted
Posted

If you looking for a 3076R equivalent then go the 0.63/ 5558 which is what I did from research and Unigroup's advice, if you looking for bigger, then consider the 6XXX series...

I spent a heap of time comparing numbers on this also.

For memory when I looked at this (I dont have the numbers on me) the 6262/6266 are pretty much similar to a GT3540 and the Precision 6466 is somewhere between a GT3540 and a TO4Z# .

Obviously how these would drive will also vary based on the rear housing size/ split pulse or not etc.

  • Replies 3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

SimonR32
SimonR32

The 6262 sillyness is never ending... New cams just got the most power and torque it's ever made

SimonR32
SimonR32
Mick_o
Mick_o

Dale is 100% correct its a well proven fact that smaller cams in RB's aid in response. Even going from a stock cam to a type b pon cam will cost you response. Been many track guys that have thrown the

Posted Images

Mitcho_7 Mentor

Mitcho_7

Posted
Posted

All the T3/T4 ones are, AFAIK.

If you got one of their garret copy items it would have a water cooled core (IE the T28/GT30 variant stuff).

I always assumed bb chra had oil and water cooling.

I guess no one has had many issues with it though.

What did you guys do with the water lines? Just link the feed to the return with a braided line or something?

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Tune all done, ran out of pump (fuel) top end so we stopped there but I'm fairly happy with how it went... May chuck another pump in and see how it goes but I'm happy for now :)

PTE 6262 on stock bottom end RB26 with a Greddy 1.2mm head gasket and Greddy drop in cams

20130113_143508.jpg

Edited by SimonR32
rondofj Veteran

rondofj

Posted
Posted

Tune all done, ran out of pump (fuel) top end so we stopped there but I'm fairly happy with how it went... May chuck another pump in and see how it goes but I'm happy for now :)

PTE 6262 on stock bottom end RB26 with a Greddy 1.2mm head gasket and Greddy drop in cams

20130113_143508.jpg

Wow why u making so much power man- 450ish rwkw is it?? How much boost and no E85?

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

600hp at wheels? Very nice result gotta be extremely happy with that !!

Is that on caltex eflex ?

Sucrogen, we don't get E85 on pump over here :(

Wow why u making so much power man- 450ish rwkw is it?? How much boost and no E85?

About 450kw at the hubs yeah, boost is on the graph 1.6bar to beef up the mid range and 1.4 bar top end. It's running E85

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

Awesome results mate. Hurry up and go to the drags :)

I considered cams :)

Hows it feel on the road?

Maybe, depends if I can be stuffed. Cams should make a bit more power, if you do cams I'll do another pump :)

Only drove it about it 200m, gave it stick in 1st and 2nd, held on... Was good!

What rear housing is on the 6262?

T4 0.84 divided

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

Very nice power! Looks a bit laggier than a Gt3582r, which isn't really that bad news on a turbo that will make as much power as this if you tried pushing it :-)

We overlayed a few GT3582R graphs and they were similar response. Remember hub dyno makes things look lazier than a roller graph and the run was only started at 3000rpm so not much time to wind up the big girl. Could make big power with another pump though, would go close to 700 if we were crazy haha

The boost isn't falling over top end either, it's just we layed more boost into the mid range to beef up the torque. If we had held that boost through it would have run out of fuel (and probably make another 30-40hp)

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted

We overlayed a few GT3582R graphs and they were similar response. Remember hub dyno makes things look lazier than a roller graph and the run was only started at 3000rpm so not much time to wind up the big girl. Could make big power with another pump though, would go close to 700 if we were crazy haha

The boost isn't falling over top end either, it's just we layed more boost into the mid range to beef up the torque. If we had held that boost through it would have run out of fuel (and probably make another 30-40hp)

sorry if ive missed it, wondering if that a stock bottem end?

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted

We overlayed a few GT3582R graphs and they were similar response. Remember hub dyno makes things look lazier than a roller graph and the run was only started at 3000rpm so not much time to wind up the big girl. Could make big power with another pump though, would go close to 700 if we were crazy haha

The boost isn't falling over top end either, it's just we layed more boost into the mid range to beef up the torque. If we had held that boost through it would have run out of fuel (and probably make another 30-40hp)

Yeah it's pretty clear it has plenty more flow in it - no question of that, for the lag it'll make way more than a GT3582R. I am most familiar with hub dynos, and the .82a/r T3 single scroll GT3582Rs tend to be all on by around 4300-4500rpm so barely any more lag considering the extra power but I'd have guessed it to be noticeable.

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

Yeah it's pretty clear it has plenty more flow in it - no question of that, for the lag it'll make way more than a GT3582R. I am most familiar with hub dynos, and the .82a/r T3 single scroll GT3582Rs tend to be all on by around 4300-4500rpm so barely any more lag considering the extra power but I'd have guessed it to be noticeable.

Compared with the T88 it's noticeable haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...