Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahaha, you're kidding right?

Nah man i was serious,

i thought it only ever served another purpose in turbo cars cos they provide spark along with the coil packs to provide boost etc.

Nah man i was serious,

i thought it only ever served another purpose in turbo cars cos they provide spark along with the coil packs to provide boost etc.

i think you need to do a bit of research on how engines work.

Are spark plugs just used for initial startup? Or do they serve another purpose also?

For when you use your head lamps also, so if you do a lot of night driving they're going to need to be replaced more often.

Dont listen to him ^^ Thats not true!

Spark Plugs are used for engine braking, you know when you take your foot off the accelerator the car slows down, thats because the spark plugs shoot flames and sparks at the pistons causing them to slow down, which makes the engine turn slower.

Dont listen to these guys TUFF-350, the spark plugs are only used for start up and for indicators, they can be used for headlights as the are never on all the time. They turn on and off quickly, like the indicators which is why indicators flash.

Im always happy to help my fellow skyliners.

all lies.. spark plugs are just there to fill the holes they put into the head.. they don't really serve a purpose.. kida like wheels.. they only fill the gap they placed in your bodywork..

all lies.. spark plugs are just there to fill the holes they put into the head.. they don't really serve a purpose.. kida like wheels.. they only fill the gap they placed in your bodywork..

stfu you jerk

spark plugs are only on rotaries, everyone knows this

I had a chat with my uncle who is working in Nissan as a Mechanic. He reckon try tightening the valve cover, if not the seals have to be change.

As funny as all this plug humour is, just need to know which dealer your uncle works for, so I dont go there. Ever.

Valve cover bolts are not the issue, seals are not replaceable. He really should know that seeing as most newer Nissans run the VQ now. Common design issue with the rocker cover.

hahaha, you slack kents.

here you go man. have a look/read thru this, and then search for more stuff and read that too.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine1.htm

Lol finally someone offers the truth amongst the jokes. Thanks bro!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...