Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 191
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

well that wasn't what you originally said. You made out as though you couldn't control your car in the wet without TC. Your passion in your argument at least suggests this wasn't the point you were trying to make, making this a misunderstanding. If this assumption is incorrect, you still haven't re-read your original point.

Where do I say I drive cars with an on and off throttle control ? We are all here because we love to drive cars fast and modify them right ??

Well traction control helps you do that. if there was something that gives a clear advantage why would you not use it.

They banned it in formula 1 because it was to much of an adavantage does this mean that formula 1 drivers didnt have throttle control up to 2008 when it was banned ? no.

Its an advantage use it or dont , It doesnt bother me its your choice.

Point is the majority of people in this thread dont have an ecu with the traction control capability you are speaking of. The people that do have the capability most likely know and use it.

  • 3 weeks later...

my car had 256 rwkw and i had the following setup

- bilstien shock absorbers

- pedders lowerd springs (%100 street legal)

- whiteline adjustable swaybars

- whiteline camber kit front

- whiteline camber kit rear x2

- whiteline castor kit front

- whiteline subframe align/lock (pineapples)

not only that but i had bridgestone so2's on the back and it still had major problems with traction, in all honesty it was alot of fun, but it didnt take long before i was over it and just wanted it to get going, 3 months exactly and i got rid of it for a gtr

Lol. Yes, yes, GTRs are great - we've all heard it before. :(

Like previously stated I was all for selling the GTT and getting a 34 GTR but they are just so overpriced still at 10 years old. I used to have a 32 Gtst and although a 32 GTR would be fun at $15-20k personally I feel they are just way too old for an every day driver - no offense of course!

This is really a thread about RWD Skylines and what is achievable in 0-100 times, essentially with 'cop friendly' launches, compared to the similar rivals ie WRX, STI, XR6T, SS etc etc

Over priced? GTRs are supercars! And most people who drive anytype of GTR have another daily driver. And if you were to buy an R32 GTR need alot more cash to get them to brand new standards only for the fans :(

my car had 256 rwkw and i had the following setup

- bilstien shock absorbers

- pedders lowerd springs (%100 street legal)

- whiteline adjustable swaybars

- whiteline camber kit front

- whiteline camber kit rear x2

- whiteline castor kit front

- whiteline subframe align/lock (pineapples)

not only that but i had bridgestone so2's on the back and it still had major problems with traction, in all honesty it was alot of fun, but it didnt take long before i was over it and just wanted it to get going, 3 months exactly and i got rid of it for a gtr

well with 255rwkw it is indeeed possible to get traction, when i had 262 rwkw i could get traction, an i had 255's on the back and suspension done

well with 255rwkw it is indeeed possible to get traction, when i had 262 rwkw i could get traction, an i had 255's on the back and suspension done

...and how quick were you to 100? :P

yeah i think as power increases, you must upgrade the suspension/traction each time to get increasing times

ie going from 200rwkw to 220rwkw doesnt guarantee quicker times, need more traction and able to get it down the line

i think thats why its easy to get into 4 sec with basic mods and std turbo, but after that, its a challenge for every extra rwkw

Over priced? GTRs are supercars! And most people who drive anytype of GTR have another daily driver. And if you were to buy an R32 GTR need alot more cash to get them to brand new standards only for the fans :)

34 GTRs are overpriced IMHO still (unfortunately) - for a good quality one anyway. And yes, they 'used' to be supercars - it's sad to say but the 05+ WRX STis (stock for stock) are quicker than 34 GTRs (a fact that i am LOATHE to admit) - of course some mods and it becomes a different story - but then you begin talking big $$.

A 34 GTR has been my absolute dream car for a long time, and I actually had the chance to drive one a couple weeks ago...! And... to be honest... I was a bit disappointed with it. Felt heavy and laggy unless you really had it up in the rev range, my GTT felt much quicker and more nimble (although of course harder to get off the line...) :)

Don't get me wrong, GTRs are great, and my GTT will never be 'as good' or 'as cool' - but for a daily driver that's cost less than a stock GTR it's: cheaper to have bought / built, cheaper to run, more comfortable to sit in, gets less attention from other 'dickheads' (like me hehe) in GTT/GTsT's, gets less attention from cops and i am not scared to leave it parked.

I really do hate to admit it, but i'm glad I chose not to go down the GTR path....

Perhaps later when I have a daily XR6T with the kids in the back there will be a 34 nur (or 35) GTR in the garage, but not now.

my 33 gtst is getting a full rebuild slowly by myself. not sure if this will work but im gonna try for the times im on street tyres and someone wants to have a go. toggle switch powers a proximity switch mounted on top of tranny and detects gear lever when in first. this opens a solinoid between intake and wastegate via bleed valve and i can set a low boost value for take off. change out of first and solinoid closes and boost controller set to usually 20psi amd away we go. i think its good in theory and if it doesnt work then i rip it out but surely it can be adjusted and can pull some good starts. maybe even powerfc launch control and this low boost fuction may work well. cant wait to try

Has anyone tried launching high powered RWD cars in second gear to get better times? 300rwkw - 400rwkw.

Has anyone tried this with a aftermarket ecu launch control and traction control % slip that is available with the more advanced ecu's?

Would like to know if anyone else is playing around with this. and what settings they find to work the best. Using street tyres on the street preferable as thats what I am dealing with ATM, got my car and another one to setup and trying to get my head around and find out as much info as possible before going out and doing live testing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
×
×
  • Create New...