Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently purchased a GCG r33 high flow which appears in good condition. Before i installed it i changed the wastegate to a rb20(10psi) wastegate. The original wastegate on it was an original 7psi one.Then went ahead on a straight foraward install with mechanic supervison and support.

My r33 gtst was running 190kw on 12 psi with stock turbo, pfc, 3inch exhaust, smic, , 040 fuel pump, profec b greedy boost controler, standard air box.

After install:

When i installed the gcg high flow, car started fine and then i took it for drive around the block. When the car came on boost it whistled loudly then the car hesitated and stalled. Got it started but it idled poor and was blowing white smoke when i reved it. it did not allow me to rev it. Manged to get it home home and then took all the plumbing off to inspect compressor wheel as i suspected a blown turbo. Lucky for me everything was good and wheel was still on the turbo.

I took of the rb 20 wastegate off and installed the original r33 wastegate which is the same as my stock turbo. Started the car and took it for a drive. This time i drove it on 7psi stock boost of wastegate and not 10psi(rb20). The car ran well however it has a small miss in the low rev ranges.

I have z32 airflow meter, injectors and retune planned for next month

Is this normal behaviour for an untuned turbo upgrade?

What are your thoughts on this

please help.

Winding up the boost on a stock r33 gts-t is whats going wrong. They don't mind carrying on even with small psi increases, as far as I know Nissan did this to discourage modifying by making it harder than just winding boost up. Gone are the R32 gts-t days where you could wind them up to 16psi with a decent intercooler and exhaust, providing the turbine wheel didn't spit out off first.

Whistling/stalling was probably an air leak, and you would expect black smoke in that case. White smoke is burning oil, which could mean the turbos bearing seal is stuffed, which probably means the bearing is stuffed. Does the wheel turn smoothly? Is it still burning oil (because changing the wastegate actuator shouldnt have any impact). If its stopped burning oil i have NFI

Thanks for advice guys, problem has been fixed.

1. Hose between throttle body and intake pipe was leaking air.

2. irridium plugs were fouled so i cleaned them with prepsol and gapped them to .8

Car runs perfect on 7psi with gcg turbo and pfc current tune. it appears that the car can only handle 7psi on current tune as anything hire than this will foul the plugs.

Car runs perfect on 7psi with gcg turbo and pfc current tune. it appears that the car can only handle 7psi on current tune as anything hire than this will foul the plugs.

That doesn't make sense.

you did change the oil supply line to the turbo to a non standard one or modify the stock one by drilling out ALL the oil restrictors in the bangos and bolts?

if not the whissle was the comp wheel eating the comp cover because the thust bearing has failed fom not enough oil

you did change the oil supply line to the turbo to a non standard one or modify the stock one by drilling out ALL the oil restrictors in the bangos and bolts?

if not the whissle was the comp wheel eating the comp cover because the thust bearing has failed fom not enough oil

Why do i need to modify oil lines if im only replacing my stock r33 turbo with a gcg high flow. Both turbos look the same and all lines bolt up perfectly. The gcg turbo has different internals and new ball bearing cartridge. It is a direct bolt on fit.

Anyway we dont need to continue the thread cause the car runs perfect, all problems have been sorted, thanks guys.

He doesn't need to modify the oil lines, he is replacing a BB with a BB, they still need to be restricted. If he removed any restrictions he would blow the turbo seal big time. Different if he was changing over to a PB turbo.

I thought the rule of thumb was that that Thrust/Journal Bearing cores needed a more oil where as Ball bearings only need a small amount?

When i put my hybrid j/bearing turbo on, I had the guy drill out the stock banjos and lines.

  • 2 years later...

This is 100% a vacuum/ boost leak, i just installed a GCG highflow myself, and forgot to tighten up on of the intercooler hoses properly. as soon as it was under load it popped off and behaved exactly as the car in this thread. I put the hose back on and tightned her up... no worries mate!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...