Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 114
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Do you have any pics of how you hung the block and tackle....

I trying to figure out if my roof will support it

i am building a wall mounted crane at the moment (literally, im just taking a lunch break from welding bits), it will be bolted to the frame of the garage using a piece of 100x50x7 rhs and 12 1/2 hi tensile bolts through the steel uprights. it will swing 180* with an extendable boom to reach the middle of the garage, and a block and tackle on the end..

i will post up some pics when it starts to come together a bit more... the good thing about it unlike a straight block and tackle is it can be moved around to clear the car etc..

sounds like a great idea...I wouldn't have the room in mine though...might just buy an engine crane lol..but even then room is minimal :(

hence my thinking about a block and tackle...but sloped garage entry will make it hard to push 1400 odd kgs back into the garage after i move the car away from the hung donk =\

cool, are they just normal pine truss' though?

If you have a pine truss roof, hang the block and tackle over the top of the truss at a point where 2 diagonals meet. This way the timber will be in compression, the gangnails don't see too much load, and there's very little bendng load on any timber members. Much stronger than hanging weight off the bottom beam in a truss, but still not bullet proof.

I've used this setup to remove L4's out of a number of Dattos. Don't currently have a hoist in my shed, but haven't pulled an engine for several years.

My shed's too messy atm to post any photos (halfway through a couple of projects as well as having a rally car, trailer, 2 cars and about 6 bicycles in there). When I tidy it up a bit I might post some pics.

heres a few pics of the crane that i just made... its not quite finished yet.. but you get the idea..

the wall that it will sit against

Picture028.jpg

the post that it will mount to

Picture019.jpg

the sketch

Picture018.jpg

and the main part of it.. i still need to get some rhs for the extendable part and weld the hook on the end.

Picture031.jpg

and the hinge set up... just some tube and some big bolts.. just drops in.. each bolt is capable of 2t.

Picture015.jpg

you have to remember that this crane is purely for removing and swinging a 200kg engine out of way.. 5 min use to lift it up and swing it over.. and 5 min to swing it back and lower it down.. so its probably over built for what i need... we thought about bearings and slides and all sorts of stuff... but really.. its just more hassle.. if i was using the crane every single day then it would be a different story.

yeh it is... thats what im worried about aswell... the part that mounts to the posts is like 7mm thick... with 12 1/2 bolts so im hoping that will spread the load out and it wont be too much of a drama... we'll only be in this house for another year or so.. so its not worth me doing too much work to the actual structure of the garage.. the crane can be simply unbolted and take it with me.. so the crane is built to last.. the garage is not.

It's more the bending moment at the base of your crane.

By using multiple mounts you reduce it some what but ultimately when you lift something up at the other end (say a 200kg rb on a 2m lever arm) it'll try and bend the post outward. It'll probably hold 200kg vertically fine but once it starts to bend it can go pear shaped fairly quickly.

it gets worse when you rotate the crane as you no longer have the 2 posts in plane, but side by side and that significantly reduces the moment it could handle.

If you want to continue with it i would be doing some trial runs at full weight while keeping a good eye on what the poles are doing.

It's more the bending moment at the base of your crane.

(say a 200kg rb on a 2m lever arm)

actually it doesnt have to lift 200kg... more like 130kg.. :rofl: and it should only be once while im at this house.. next house will have a much better setup.

i will most definatly be trialling it with weight before i go hovering an engine over the car.. worst case scenario... i make a new 100x100x7 post and dynabolt it to the floor and to the original post.. that isnt a drama.. when the crane isnt in use, it will be secured at the other end... but thank you for your advice.. it isnt the best situation i know, im doing the best with what ive got (so far the crane has cost me $0) and the height of the garage is not suitable for an i-beam with a running block and tackle..

I'm way too embarrassed to show any pics of my garage and shed at the moment. Only moved in 4 months ago.

I have a double car garage which is roughly 6 x 6 mtrs in size with concrete floor and double sized roller door. It houses the wife's car and car trailer with race car on top.

After these two items are in the garage, there is hardly any room for anything. Just some book cases for storage down the sides.

I have a tin shed further around the back which is a decent size roughly 4 x 3 mtrs which is yet to be converted to the "workshop". I plan on putting 240v power to it, install power points, fluro lights, benches and shelves.

Badhairdave mentioned some excellent points about lighting and benches.

This thread will be excellent to get some ideas from to set up my shed properly!

One word for you Duncan....

ebay

Should be able to flog off any old tyres you don't want real quick and make some room. Plus, you GTR deserves a garage at night!

Actually i buy most of those 2nd hand and they are keepers! At $710ea for the Michelin slicks (new) it would be far too taxing on the budget. So all of these are keepers. Once i am finished with them they are well trashed. A tyre rack sounds like a good idea!

Edited by LSX-438

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...