Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

Im running a neo motor in my r32 and was making 280rwhp with a standard tubro! untill it leaned out, cooked a piston and snapped the turbo shaft. Currently rebuilding the motor and need to sort out my fuel issues then a turbo. With my current set up the standard turbo had good low down response and torque, not much lag and would cook third under boost. The suspension and driveline is sorted and I mainly use it for fun on the track, time trials and drifting.

Not chasing any more power just want to know what would be the best turbo for that same sorta low down response and torque, so basically similar to the neo turbo but a bit better:)

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Not neccesarily more responsive. There MAY be 100rpm in it but the disco makes up for it with a better comp cover and then it also has the advantage of being able to turn up the wick when this guy decides he wants a bit more hp.

And yes, no matter what he says now, he will want more later.

300hp is a rediculous power figure. You can easily do it on the standard turbo if you get it tuned properly

Not neccesarily more responsive. There MAY be 100rpm in it but the disco makes up for it with a better comp cover and then it also has the advantage of being able to turn up the wick when this guy decides he wants a bit more hp.

And yes, no matter what he says now, he will want more later.

300hp is a rediculous power figure. You can easily do it on the standard turbo if you get it tuned properly

Oh now come come... i draw the line @ a legit 300RWHP out of a factory turbo.

300hp, yes, but 300RWHP is the aim.

Given the amount of threads where the OP doesn't even know what they want, i like a thread like this :cool:

It's ok to want 300rwhp, just depends what it's going to be doing IMO

For example, skidpan days it would be good fun, or really tight hillruns (the type where you question having a 1500kg skyline in the first place) it would also be good at.

Can't see it being fun anywhere else though! But of course it's all personal taste.

I definatly agree, get something with headroom for later, the power bug bites all.

Just high flow your stock Neo turbo with a 2871 52T profile CHRA. Will get you full boost by 3200RPM, and max out at about 250rwkws. Plus every thing bolton no modifications required.

I know that if you use the GT2871R 48T cartridge to hi flow an R33's RB25 turbo you can keep the std compressor housing because when machined out for the larger compressor wheel you have just enough wall thickness left to mount the std inlet duct . With the 52T one I don't know . Didn't Lithium do this Hi Flow mod before the GT30 turbo went in ?

HKS rates their 2530 and 2535 at 320 and 340 PS , I reckon you could look at a 2871R 48T as a 2535 with a more modern compressor wheel .

You'd think 300 to 340 Hp out of a Neo spec RB25 would be smooth torquey and reliable , and not bank breaking .

Lag ? Whats lag ?

A .

At that power you have reached the limit of the afm, injectors, fuel pump and ecu, for a reliable 300+ you need to start upgrading a lot of other things besides the turbo.

Cheers for the guys that are helping me out. hp doesn't always mean faster!! its how its set up and how you drive it, the japs did there thing on this car in japan and its a awesome car to drive.

At 260hp this car cooks 4th gear drifting with brand new 235' s on the rear, got tenth fastest lap time out of 70 cars with second hand street tyres on and was doing the same lap times as the evo's and gtrs. i've dragged plenty of ppl that say they have done all this shit to there car and dyno at 420hp and so on and i still just pull away from them, which just cuts them because they talk their cars up so much and spent so much money chasing hp!!!

As for my set up it has blue injectors which i think the purpleish ones are standard so if anyone knows what the blue ones are let me know? a gtr fuel tank, z32 afm, bigger coils, gtr cams, oil cooler, 2 way diff, orc clutch, all suspension is adjustable camber and so on, a shitty old apexi which i need to change to prevent my motor from leaning out again and service the injectors if they are not standard. any reccomendations on ecu? im thinkin the nis tune cause im running out of money

300hp lol

I dont get it, what is so funny about wanting 300hp? If you are driving your car hard, then 300hp most likely means less oil temp, less water temp, less strain on the engine internals. It also means less stress on clutch, diff, gearobx and driveshafts. It means less fuel used at the track, less torched tyres...

If you are into sliding nad fun then a solid 300hp out of a rwd car is plenty of fun, you cam do it easily with worst case cheap used GTR injectors and fuel rail etc etc.

It makes no sense to go and ake 450hp and forever be chasing cooling issues at the track etc etc

300rwhp is lots of power, its probably as much/more then a 996 GT3. Which at 1400kgs odd is not a slow car

i've dragged plenty of ppl that say they have done all this shit to there car and dyno at 420hp and so on and i still just pull away from them, which just cuts them because they talk their cars up so much and spent so much money chasing hp!!!

So your stock turbo 200rwkw car beats and pulls away from 300rwkw cars in a drag race?

Edited by PM-R33
So your stock turbo 200rwkw car beats and pulls away from 300rwkw cars in a drag race?

Maybe I took the OP's comments a little differently, but I'd think he's generally looking at the "drag" between turns, not a 1/4 mile? Don't under-rate how fast and easily a 300rwhp Skyline can cover ground...

hp doesn't always mean faster!! its how its set up and how you drive it,

At 260hp this car cooks 4th gear drifting with brand new 235' s on the rear, got tenth fastest lap time i've dragged plenty of ppl that say they have done all this shit to there car and dyno at 420hp and so on and i still just pull away from them

I dont get it, what is so funny about wanting 300hp? If you are driving your car hard, then 300hp most likely means less oil temp, less water temp, less strain on the engine internals. It also means less stress on clutch, diff, gearobx and driveshafts. It means less fuel used at the track, less torched tyres...

If you are into sliding nad fun then a solid 300hp out of a rwd car is plenty of fun,

It makes no sense to go and ake 450hp and forever be chasing cooling issues at the track etc etc

Agreed 100%. Sounds like he is out there and doing it. Incidentally how do you find your 32 deals with heat loadings?

I know that if you use the GT2871R 48T cartridge to hi flow an R33's RB25 turbo you can keep the std compressor housing because when machined out for the larger compressor wheel you have just enough wall thickness left to mount the std inlet duct . With the 52T one I don't know . Didn't Lithium do this Hi Flow mod before the GT30 turbo went in ?

You'd think 300 to 340 Hp out of a Neo spec RB25 would be smooth torquey and reliable , and not bank breaking .

Lag ? Whats lag ?

That spec high flow was mine Adrian. 300rwhp @ 12psi. Max boost by 2700rpm. Easy, reliable power and because it made power early it was very easy to drive fast point to point. Not really a drag strip weapon, but in terms of getting power down early out of turns it could get the jump on 260-300rwkW cars and generally punch above its weight.

I've not seen anyone else run with that turbo spec, but it certainly worked. Not sure, but I don't think it would do much more than 300rwhp, cranking more boost should yield bigger mid range stick though. I often wondered if an OP6 housing would have allowed it to make torque as the rpm went over 6000, but not have a major impact on torque between 2000-3000rpm.

Just high flow your stock Neo turbo with a 2871 52T profile CHRA. Will get you full boost by 3200RPM, and max out at about 250rwkws. Plus every thing bolton no modifications required.

Given that this is a proven unit, I'd go this way. Really very similar to the unit I had built, with the advantage of some extra flow capacity if desired. Back it in this should produce the 300hp @ 12psi as mine did, but with the ability to make another 40hp with a few more pounds. Possibly some differences in boost response right down low in the rpm, but I'd be certain Stao could supply the 48T cartridge if it was an issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...