Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 136
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah id have to agree with neally everyone

leave the GTR as is

if u want another car to drive LEGALLY buy a cheap daily.. will cost less than it costs to make the GTR N/A..

and the GTR will be worth waiting to drive

well the rb26 in it needs rebuild and is missing the topend head ect so plan was save having to buy gtr convertion parts and i have a rb25de with full loom sitting there so it's not evan that hard, while i have 3yrs to save for a big hp rb26 to drop in later

looks like the 4wd wont work so ill just go all rears just run throgh the gtr box so what if its not turbo im not a street racer i only want it for the 5std wheels, nicer interior, nicer looking and for insurance it will still be insured for a kitted gtr.. no big deal

Man, you're really that stubborn.

In the end of the day, it's cheaper to park this thing and buy $500 shitter and learn how to drive.

But it's your money in the end of the day, don't come here crying if you got reamed by cops (which aren't that dumb these days), Insurance companies refusing to pay you out on basis of 'kitted gtr' in event of you being young 'un and stack this thing (which I'd say you have 50/50 chance of going through your P's with undamaged Skyline).

Just my 2c.

so what im stubborn or i know what i want.. i spend 2k on a decent daily and have another rego to pay or i spend 2k on a car i want and have it on the road, damages arn't that bad they call it a agreed value.. and i work in a panel shop anyways im here for help to build this not to have other change what i want :)

say if you had a vk plated as a v8 with a six they wont touch you...

Yes they would.

say you had a mazda rx3 but you put a piston in it they still wont touch you...

Yes they would. Even more so as its 100% a modification - Have you not read the other rules part about modifications on P-Plates?

You know... the part where it specifically states you can't have any?

my mate has a r33 gtst but has a rb25de in it they dont touch him cos it dosen't have the power of what the plate says...

So? Just because he was lucky that suddenly makes it legal?

Sorry mate but the law is simple and clear cut. It is illegal unless you go and get the car re-engineered as a N/A.

Given the GTR was never offered in N/A form - you can't even go down the replacement engine route...

So it sounds like you don't fully understand the laws at all, and we are trying to tell you, and you then don't want to accept them.

Why did you even bother starting a thread asking for help then i wonder... ?

In summation...

1. You don't want to learn about the laws.

2. You are going to do it anyway

3. You will still be illegal

May mother luck be with you mate.

hey Ash they did make an RB26DE you know but like you said, not in the GTR so you can't use it anyway. OP why on earth would you want to ruin the GTR with a crappy engine? Fair enough it's your car and your money but you won't be able to legally drive it anyway so you may as well sell the RB25 and use the money to buy the 26 a new head then hope you don't get caught (not likely seeing as it's a GTR)

Or butcher the GTR totally, put the front end on your GTS take the wheels, brakes and hubs too, cut the rear guards off and weld em up onto your GTS, then become a paid member, come on a cruise and wonder why everyone keeps moving their cars when you park near them....

its not worth having a turbo on p-plates at all....

to be honest i baught my r34 gtt on my p plates and then thougth about how the fak am i going to drive it. i thot about de turboing the thing.. i called around they sed around 1.8k cost and its not going o run great.. and then i have to get it enginered and crap..get involved with vicroads..NOT WORTH IT.. it would be as slow as a turtle atempting rape ..you'll get over it withing a week..

so then i started using my brainsss and came up with the idea of an exemption and now im legaly driving a modified turbo skyline on my p plates LEGALLY :) ... it can be done but would cost a lot of streesss and hair loss that i go from it LOL

so what im stubborn or i know what i want.. i spend 2k on a decent daily and have another rego to pay or i spend 2k on a car i want and have it on the road, damages arn't that bad they call it a agreed value.. and i work in a panel shop anyways im here for help to build this not to have other change what i want smile.gif

Maybe you should master the English language and grammar before you start playing around with highly complex jap cars, no less a GTR!

Listen to us mate, don't be another f**khead P plater and listen to people older and more experienced than you!

The LAW states that you can't have said car regardless of modifications.

I don't know about you, but "me mate has a 33 wiv a turbo rb25 on his p plates and he get away wif it!" WON'T hold up against the cops lol

Ok then, you want help? Let me lay this out for you...

You have three choices:

1) Rip out the 26, and find an RB25 from a Stagea, put it in, swap the computer, loom, engine, gearbox, transfer case, exha... oh woops! We run into problem A! You can't have a GTR registered as a non turbo! Say you get around that problem somehow... Then fit the rb25 and get it running (5-7k later) you drive it down the road and like all skylines do, you get pulled over by the cops and get either (cue Problem B and C): b) yellow sticker-ed (if the cop's in a good mood) or c) you loose your license for driving a (twin) "turbo" car.

Grand total of about 8-10k either way. 4k for the engine and gearbox, at least a grand for fitting and wiring it up, then at least 1.5k more for the fine and 3 months license suspension, or yet another 2-4k for re-fitting the RB26 (including another $800-$1200 to find a good RB26 head) and getting it past the pits.

2) Rip apart the motor (somehow) fit the RB25 pistons, rods, crank, and head. You attmept to start the car. Run into problem D, the donk has a cop of a compression ratio now, due to having longer rods and taller NA pistons. Say you start the motor, you get a few hundred meters down the road, and if you don't run into problem B and C again, you will discover problem E, your engine has SHOCKING fuel economy.

Grand total of about 6-8k. At least 5k plus a $1000 bribe for the engine build, note the bribe 'cos no good engine builder will touch it. Then about 1k more per year for the shocking fuel bills you will be paying for.

3) Buy a decent R32 GTS or even a nice R33 GTS-4, or your given "2k daily"

In summary:

1) 8-10k plus rego and insurance for the now molested GTR

2) 6-8k plus rego and insurance.

3) 8-10K for the nice GTS(4) plus rego and insurance for the daily, as you don't need it for the GTR. MINUS whatever you can sell it for. In two years I can't imagine you loosing too much money there. Total outlay - 1-2k if you look after it, which, by the sounds of you, you wont (no offense).

See where I'm going with this?

Just for kicks, I wanna quote your funniest phrase yet:

why would i spend all the money on th gts to make it look like a gtr and it's not worth shit

Right, so a molested somehow non-turbo GTR will be worth MORE than said car?? lol I'd buy an R32 GTS with a nice GTR kit and wheels ANYDAY over a GTR that's been raped by some clueless teen.

they did make an RB26DE

Sorry man, no they didn't, Autech made a non turbo RB26 with about 20k worth of professional engineering including throttle trumpets, revamped compression, complete rebuild, re-mapped ECU etc...

I believe it was a one off for someone's wife/girlfriend??

haha what a joke, you have already been told and flamed enough so I wont bother giving my advice.

on the other hand autech has already done this (as mentioned above) but they didnt molester a gtr in the first place, if you find one of these it will fit the bill legally.....good luck though, last time I saw one for sale was at R31 House last year.

regardless of any mods, changes, engine swaps, tunes, tricks etc

a Skyline GTR R32 is a twin turbo sports car which exceeds the power to weight rule and is turbocharged, so therefore it is not allowed on your p platers in victoria

this is regardless of age, kilometers, power, mods, intake tricks, removing turbochargers, changing engines, etc

the vicroads regulations dont care about how the car looks, performs, appears, sounds, or how much power it makes

they simply look at what the car is, a Skyline GTR R32 and go hmm its on our list of not allowed, sorry

Sorry man, no they didn't, Autech made a non turbo RB26 with about 20k worth of professional engineering including throttle trumpets, revamped compression, complete rebuild, re-mapped ECU etc...

I believe it was a one off for someone's wife/girlfriend??

dunno if its the one, but its in an r32 sedan

Autech RB26de

Mate i value the project idea and i don't think that ppl should hammer him. My mate bought a stock 93 (evo 3 shape) and converted it to 4wd 4g63 set up and a wide body tommy mac kit. WAIT all this was done within his garage! this is great deal on effort and all of us really value his hard work and wat he loves doing. We call him a crazy engineer. But look these were all bolt on parts and he really was keen on completing it. Yes its cheaper to go and just buy an EVO 3 but there is no statisfaction factor

I think that its a good idea that you are trying to be creative! I'm recent off my p-plate so we are in a simular age bracket, i would advise you to keep the GTR stock as a track car and have a daily. Looking back 2 yrs with a skyline on my p-plates (green) i was lucky i didn't get caught earlier. 5 weeks before i got of my p-plate i got pulled over my a TMU (knox lol) and all i felt that i could do is lube up lol didn't run the plates or look at the badge, just counted 5 studs and started writing a ticket(FYI N/A has 4 studs). so i hope you get the message! Night ended pretty well and only 3 demerit points later and about 300 buxs in a fine my car sat in at home for the remaining 5 weeks lol

Hope you get the message- you will be asked to engineer the car, EPA= headache to the max

I think everyone has been through wat you are thinking (in yr8 i wanted to rb26 a vl LMAO), and take the advise of the older and wiser. Look advise is free and everyone can give it to you, what you wanna do is gonna cost big dollars.

You won't fail with this idea, but be unlikely to beat the law,cops are not stupid and p-plates with skyline don't mix to well.

Mate i value the project idea and i don't think that ppl should hammer him. My mate bought a stock 93 (evo 3 shape) and converted it to 4wd 4g63 set up and a wide body tommy mac kit. WAIT all this was done within his garage! this is great deal on effort and all of us really value his hard work and wat he loves doing. We call him a crazy engineer. But look these were all bolt on parts and he really was keen on completing it. Yes its cheaper to go and just buy an EVO 3 but there is no statisfaction factor

Yeah agreed, this would be VERY cool. A sleeper EVO 3 of sorts!

But one flaw, this guy wants to do exactly the OPPOSITE to what you've outlined here...

He's downgrading!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...