Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

as usual a fellow member comes to SAU for the expertise and the experience of the community specialising in the almighty SKYLINE =D~, hope you guys can help.

Got a 34GTR Vpsec here in WA. My plans are to go to a single GT35R, went to hyperdrive in Malaga (if anyone in Perth here please let me know if they are good/trusted) recommended me this. Before I go ahead with the conversion want to know about the V-band turbo (who does the good downpipes etc. for the exhaust side of things) and if thats what i should get the the 4 bolt housing etc. Also I will be disecting the engine first to replace pretty much most of the internals to extend its mortal life. Read a few articles saying CP would be best ?? Not sure... Or should i just go straight the the 2.8 Stroker kit which comes with everything thus improving displacement/power/torque. What other necessities do i need for this uprgrade. I know of fuel pump, injectors, fuel rail (maybe), water pump and oil pump.

Thank you SAU members for your help, any feedback is appreciated.

Edited by Specrzx
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321759-r34gtr-single-turbo-upgrade-help/
Share on other sites

The majority of your questions have been covered plenty, such as the fuel system. You will find that answer within minutes of searching.

However, I am curious as to why your tuner has recommended you a 35R? What is it you are chasing with your R? Give us some detail

Thanx for the assurance. Well i'm look at around maybe the 400-500hp mark but alos a responsive turbo Maybe a bit of track down the road. Ok so my first choice was the gt-ss or 2860's and andrew said straight out no... won't give you that much power and not worth it. So he said go the gt35r. Cause it does produce the power around what i initially wanted also not too laggy. But now that I think of it bolt on twins would be better for the $$ and easier too just not producing that much more HP. What do you guys think?

I reckon a well sized gt35 would do pretty well, and If you have the big bucks to spend, a 2.8 or rb26/30 wod be VERY benificial to you. It sounds like you have silly amounts of money to spend if you are considering a rebuild/stroker kit. The single would prob end up being a cheaper option I'd say. If you want to make 500hp+ the stock manifolds and exhaust work will be useless so it's better to buy only one manifold/dump/exhaust rather than two for the gt-ss or 2860s. Not to mention the cost of the two turbos, two oil lines, four water lines, two oil drains etc... I.e. I doubt you could make 500hp on stock gear, so in terms of upgrades, it's better to only have one set of supporting mods rather than two...

As for the v-band, the power gains are negligible, bit they are soo much easier to work with, everythng comes on and off in seconds, not to mention they look sex too! I'd recommend talking to Shaun at carmine mufflers in balcatta, his work on my car has been excellent, he knows his stuff!

With your rebuild, a heap of people use n1 gear like the water pump and oil pump, maybe even go for the upgraded crank collar, cos everyone knows of RBs and their oil problems. For 500hp you'd want a decent pump or two, decent regulator and a set of ~600cc injectors...

I can also vouch for Hyperdrive, andrew has taken care of almost everythng for my car, from the tuning, to a turbo selection even an emergency oil feed split! Listen to his advice and I'll be seriously suprised if you were to go wrong.

good luck mate!

Nope for 500hp the twin 2860 -5's are fine. Stock manifolds and dumps on the R34 are fine too. R33 onwards also have the extended oil pump drive from factory. You can even use the factory oil and water lines. (basically everything bolts up nicely and looks stock)

You have to remember that to go a single turbo you have to buy new exhaust manifold, turbo, probably external gate (if you are going to the effort of going single why not), dump pipe, front pipe, intercooler piping, intake piping, oil feed + drain, and finally water lines.

Go the twins, its cheaper and gives just as much power as the 35R

I think the gt35r is going to give more power. You dont see those kind of results often on WA dynos with the 2860-5's. The response will be the same.

Twin 2860-5s is nearly 700hp worth of bolt on turbo, gt35 is rated at what 600?

If the tuners over there cant get big power from low mount twins than they need to be sacked.

IMO the bolt on options are the bst bet for a GTR, As the lots of very quick circuit GTRs floating around AUS can attest too.

Alright thanks guys. And no im like any average guy not that much $$ wouldn't be a problem if i had alot haha T51R! 3L stroker... yep theres one out there =D... But yeah you guys been a good help to my decision. And it is to keep the twins. Instead of getting one big turbo ill work the engine for reliability and cooling (forged/lightweight). And I WAS sure before going to Hyperdrive that they could get around that power mark, just got a bit confused when he look at me weird and just shook his head. O_o like wtf?? Oh you guys reckon D-J or just normal FC for the 2860's?? Is fine to stay with just normal? sourcing can be abit of a pain for DJ thats why.

if you go normal power fc and hold your power around 330kws you should be able to get away with standard afms

but if you wanna up your power later you will need to upgrade your afms either nismos or z32 afms

nismos = $800-900 most tuners i spoke to prefer tunning with these

z32 afms =$400-500 for the pair

taken all that in to consideration maybe your better off buying a djetro to start with to save a bit of coin if your planning on upping your power in the future.

or many other ecu options vipec, link, wolf ect..

have a chat to your tuner

Really? Yea that is a good tip. Thanks Adriano. Well im on the market for 2xRB25 afm's lol. Anyone? 400awkw is plenty... Not making a drag car anyways. Will be sure to post results. Will be using all your tips and info you guys have given. :P thanks all. Love the SAU community!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...