Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've just got my car back after some major modifications with a healthy 272.9rwkw before 6000 rpm - obviously my crappy 235s have no chance of holding it in 1st or 2nd (barely in 3rd) so I can't get most of my power down.

The search is on for some new rears - to match the fronts i need to go 265/30/19

I was thinking of the Nitto NT05s but they don't come to Aus in this size apparently...

The two others i'm tossing up between are the Pirrelli P Zero Rosso and the Yokohama Advan AD08 - prices for these are around the $600 - $650 mark each (ouch :) )

Anyone have any thoughts?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323338-tyres-for-a-270rwkw-r34/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

take a look at the federal 595 RS-R tyres, they are fairly cheap for a decent road legal semi slick.

otherwise check out http://www.tirerack.com/ they deliver internationally, though expect ~$200 for freight and a $30 international money transfer charge when you pay for them, friend just got some 265 17's Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tyres for just over $800 delivered, the cheapest price he could find one tyre for in australia was just under the price for 2 from the USA even with delivery etc.

kumho ku36

federal 595 ss

federal 595 rsr

mickey thompson et streets

falken azenis

heaps 2 pick from

the old 3076r made 272kw.. what boost?

old 3076? I assume you aren't meaning the 5 blade one? Mine's a spankin new 6 blade.

272.9rwkw @ 18psi - fairly conservative tune, max power is in before 6000rpm all the way to redline so i could lean on it a bit more.

post-71984-1275531345_thumb.jpg

It looks a bit lazy coming onto boost but it makes the numbers.

I reckon there is more to be had in the mid range with tweaking/checking boost control and wastegate pre-load.

Have you modified your suspension? How much rear camber?

My R33 makes very similar power (allowing variations for dynos) and I have almost no issues getting power to the road with regular road tyres. I have the old SK GB suspension (bilsteins etc) and I have tweaked the settings around to suit me.

good result... was this internal gate?

Also.... I went and got new tyres the day before i started on my 3076r build because I knew how the after effect was going to be...

I have I think nexens (i'll have to check.. cant remember the brand) was 600 all up for 4 new tyres... 235/40/18s...

They hold on pretty well for what they are and cheap to replace! even when i had my car in 2wd they were good.. in awd theres barely any let go...

It looks a bit lazy coming onto boost but it makes the numbers.

I reckon there is more to be had in the mid range with tweaking/checking boost control and wastegate pre-load.

Have you modified your suspension? How much rear camber?

My R33 makes very similar power (allowing variations for dynos) and I have almost no issues getting power to the road with regular road tyres. I have the old SK GB suspension (bilsteins etc) and I have tweaked the settings around to suit me.

Yup .82 rear.

The boost does look a little slower than some other graphs - although we mapped it up against an R33 with almost the exact mods on the dyno charts and mine made 30kw more throughout the whole range and almost 70nm more torque throughout until both making the same power at redline - and the 33 was on 21psi. Thinking that's the NEO making the difference.

I might just play around with the gain on the boost controller in small increments and see what I can glean re the boost delivery...

As for traction it is standard suspension with King Springs - thinking of going the pineapples. If i put my foot past 2/3 in 2nd it breaks out everytime around 4.5-5k. But they are pretty average Hancook 235s...

And yes it's internally gated - spent enough $$ without going for external!

I was really only after 240-250ish when i began this whole thing but thought i may as well get the best parts and see where i ended up... I think the 273 could definitely go up but it is a daily driver and i want it to last a number of years so don't want to lean on it too much...

yeh looks the goods, dif comes on slower being internal gated

im running brand new federal 235 40 18s 595 SS on the rear and in 2nd with 290rwkw i dont loose traction and thats tucking rim with G4 coilovers hard as lol.. HRMM

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...