Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 160
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Julz I'm not trying to be a prick, sorry if my question came accross that way.

Like I said, I don't like seeing people getting taken for a ride. If you feel what you're paying is fair then great, enjoy the car :/

The first time you race I reckon it will be an easy win for the GTR just because the RWD GTT (even with slicks) will be a lot harder to keep straight and get the power down cleanly off the line. Where as the GTR will have that slight advantage over you. Once you get the hang of it though and can nail it down the quarter perfectly it's any ones game.

Edited by PM-R33
i would have bought an r35 gtr instead an happily lost.

Enjoy the car mate. I think you should be able to take this one out.

mate if i wanted an r35 gtr i would have went out and bought one

i could go to nissan to buy one tomorrow if i really wanted to but i want to drag my r34

thanks i will enjoy it.

reckon you're beast will be in some kind of car magazine in the future?

you dont see many rb26/30 these days, let alone in a mint, screaming fast R34 GTT!

lol keep goin till you hit 1k hp :banana:

lol

maybe one day

im not doing it for a magazine spread, i just wanna build a fast car really.

1000hp would be awesome and the motor is definately able to do it but i dont wanna break shit 600-700hp should be enough for what i want which is a 10sec pass with a manual and then ill eventually do the auto and go for sigle digits.

if i ever get canaried for it on the street it wont be re - registered and i will go absolutely stupid on it lol

change every panel to carbon, just have a shell, a cage, engine and wheels, if i dont need it, itll go lol

lol

maybe one day

im not doing it for a magazine spread, i just wanna build a fast car really.

1000hp would be awesome and the motor is definately able to do it but i dont wanna break shit 600-700hp should be enough for what i want which is a 10sec pass with a manual and then ill eventually do the auto and go for sigle digits.

if i ever get canaried for it on the street it wont be re - registered and i will go absolutely stupid on it lol

change every panel to carbon, just have a shell, a cage, engine and wheels, if i dont need it, itll go lol

please do this :banana:

Just looking at a list of about 64 sub 10 second cars ( the 10sec list would be more relevant to this thread but Performance Car mag doesn't list them anymore) and about a third are awd (GTRs, evos, wrxs) . Nissans include:

Reece McGegor R32 GTR 7.57 @ 306km/hr

Adam Wigg R34 7.85@ 264

Robbie Ward (RIPS) 240Z 7.86 @ 285

Glenn Suckling R32 GTR 7.91 @ 291

Robbie Ward R34 GTR 9.46 @ 251

Stu Rogers C33 Laurel 9.5 @ 222

Ben Cox Datsun 1200! 9.87 @ 229

Just looking at a list of about 64 sub 10 second cars ( the 10sec list would be more relevant to this thread but Performance Car mag doesn't list them anymore) and about a third are awd (GTRs, evos, wrxs) . Nissans include:

Reece McGegor R32 GTR 7.57 @ 306km/hr

Adam Wigg R34 7.85@ 264

Robbie Ward (RIPS) 240Z 7.86 @ 285

Glenn Suckling R32 GTR 7.91 @ 291

Robbie Ward R34 GTR 9.46 @ 251

Stu Rogers C33 Laurel 9.5 @ 222

Ben Cox Datsun 1200! 9.87 @ 229

hay buddy

how many of those cars are street registered?

also i dont quite get what ur comparing here as the original question was about an r34gtt and an r33 gtr and neither of those appear on that list there (unless adam wiggs r34 is a gtr)

how many of them run on pump fuel also as both of our cars should be running on pump fuel (hopefully)

Edited by GUN_METAL_GTR32

pretty sure rips r34 gtr was full trim.

hay buddy

how many of those cars are street registered?

also i dont quite get what ur comparing here as the original question was about an r34gtt and an r33 gtr and neither of those appear on that list there (unless adam wiggs r34 is a gtr)

how many of them run on pump fuel also as both of our cars should be running on pump fuel (hopefully)

hay buddy

how many of those cars are street registered?

also i dont quite get what ur comparing here as the original question was about an r34gtt and an r33 gtr and neither of those appear on that list there (unless adam wiggs r34 is a gtr)

how many of them run on pump fuel also as both of our cars should be running on pump fuel (hopefully)

The pupose of posting the list is just to show that 4wd cars can make some good times. As I said the 10 second bracket would have been of more interest to you but they don't publish them anymore. Robbie Wards 240Z had massive rears (you can see a video on the RIPS website) but the R34GTR was in full street trim but with either slicks or drag radials on about 10in rims

Few other of the above cars would be driven on the street.

Wiggs R34 is a tube framed fibreglass and carbon fibre body with a supercharged Rb30/25 with mechanical fuel injection and a 2 speed auto driving the rears only with 15 x 14 tyres. It will be going faster yet.

pretty sure rips r34 gtr was full trim.

ok

its very difficult to find any r34 drag car times on the web. i found a couple but they were both tubbed

What does "street registered" mean? Just because you have rego doesn't mean much.

it means that it will still be road driven, where as most of the cars on the list would be straight up racing cars where as mine is not. its a road registered vehicle which will be driven (sedately) on the road

the term "street registered" goes back to the classic street machine days

where a car has number plates and a registration sticker on it, and it's insanely fast/quicker/mega power

this means the car is a normal car and can drive on the road, but be quick as all hell etc etc

cars that go with a full cage, stripped interior, slicks, parachute etc ditch the "street registration" tag

what erks me is when someone says they have a "street registered" fast/mega power car

and the reason it is "street registered" is because it started out as a normal car at one point

if the owner took the car to vic roads / nsw RTA and said hey, here is my 10sec skyline

can you please register it for me, i need new plates, it is likely to fail a lot of tests and not become eligable to be "street registered".

again the same applies if you go through an EPA checkpoint or police defect station, will it pass? of course not, does it have rego? yes

Our lite weight is the only advantage we have...So I have makde it even liter on myne.( i actually thought of buying carbon doors too at one stage but its definatley street illegal in NSW )

Power up mods wont really help as we 34's be skidding when 2 much power. So to get some grip some Expensive 18 by 9inch( or wider if u can find/fit) wheels at back and nicely tuned suspension. But then again really depends on many conditions at time of race including weather and such.

Any ways good luck with the race and Hopefully you will enjoy the carbon bornet as much as i did... :)

"May the bornet be part of your Victory"

Edited by JOHNY B

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...