Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK so the rivnut thing is sorted, got another query.

Who can suggest a good 1/2" cordless impact wrench? Something that can handly stubborn crank bolts.

Ingersold Rand make some f**king awesome gear in their 20v range but the charge accordingly....

Any ideas?

The Metabo (the german ones not the bunnings chinese shit) one is a nice piece of kit, but up there in price too

Cheers will check it out, any thoughts on where to buy? I realise I should just buy a compressor, but I like the portability of cordless IF it has enough grunt...

I thought of going air too, but I think cordless might be easier for me (novice diy). Went to VEK tools today and got some stuff, they do good deals!

Hows the rivnut set mate? I'll buy one by next week, just not sure which kit.

I thought of going air too, but I think cordless might be easier for me (novice diy). Went to VEK tools today and got some stuff, they do good deals!

Hows the rivnut set mate? I'll buy one by next week, just not sure which kit.

The one I bought is still enroute from UK -not cheap at about $250 delivered but as above still half the price of the Wurth kit and looks to be a very good tool (good reviews etc online). Only goes to M10 (Wurth goes to M12) but TBH I really can't see myself using much bigger than M6 and the occasional M8. Will let you guys know how it looks when it turns up.

The Metabo (the german ones not the bunnings chinese shit) one is a nice piece of kit, but up there in price too

Just did a quick browse. Metabo it looks like sell for $680 or so and 210nm max torque, the IR sells for about $800 but aroubd 1000nm max torque. For the sake of $100 or even $200 it's a MUCH better tool...

I have a Kincrome cordless rattle gun, it does the single wheel nuts on the Speads with no issues, and I use it every day in the workshop. https://www.kincrome.com.au/product/K13070/cordless-impact-wrench-19~2-volt-1~2~-drive I definitely didn't pay the retail price for it though!

I have a Kincrome cordless rattle gun, it does the single wheel nuts on the Speads with no issues, and I use it every day in the workshop. https://www.kincrome.com.au/product/K13070/cordless-impact-wrench-19~2-volt-1~2~-drive I definitely didn't pay the retail price for it though!

Saw this at VEK yesterday for $599. (Includes 2x batteries)

We need to do a tools group buy!!

I got a Dewalt rattle gun with two batteries and charger for <$400 in a sale, was Vek or Transquip or similar. If you dont need it urgently just get on the tool vendors mailing lists and wait until the next sale of a decent brand.

RE: Impact wrench

I bought a Milwaukee 1/2" a few months back and love it.

http://www.milwaukeetools.com.au/products/m18/show/hd18hiw-402c

I've historically used Snap-On impacts, but didn't want to pay for the name. The Milwaukee is as good (possibly better) then the Snap-On and MUCH cheaper.

Problem is they're rarely on sale at a super good price, so do a quick shop around and go with the cheapest. In the few months of looking around, all the tool places that had big sales would not discount the Milwaukee range.

I haven't had a fastener it struggled with yet, nor have I run out of battery, even after a full day of hard work.

Mark :)

I bought a while ago from total tools this model.

http://www.rivtec.co.nz/tools-and-nose-assemblies/tools-and-nose-assemblies-hand-operated-rivet-nut-tools

The model i purchaed was thr PNT-210 and works a treat. Lot cheaper then that wurth one and when they have there sales on u can get it even cheaper.

Think there is a store in Penrith.

I've had trouble with cheap timing lights reading double on the gtr, I ended up with a snap on one.

For the impact wrench I ended up going the Makita 18v one. Its not the best or torque-iest but has been sufficient for everything I've tried it on. More importantly thought they have a range of other 18v cordless stuff without batteries (skin only) at prices that I can afford to collect few different things at...I've got impact wrench, drill, screwdriver, recipro saw, line trimmer etc.

Stubborn balancer bolts are best removed with one of those "power bars" basically a long arm with a 1/2" socket fitting that you whack with a hammer...I'm sure they've been covered earlier in this thread.

post-8233-1393375502268_thumb.jpgpost-8233-13933755241433_thumb.jpgpost-8233-13933755398382_thumb.jpgpost-8233-13933755545189_thumb.jpgpost-8233-13933755696692_thumb.jpg

Picked up these two tool sets from Ebay. Ordered Sunday and delivered today, looking at the address the dealer is in Mt Kurangai.

First one was $43.99 for the 7 piece hose clamp plier set and the second (the sump tools) was $9.95 (all buy now prices)

For the price these are a steal although the seller didnt combine the postage which was no biggy.

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/231119061094

I saw one seller wanting $160 for the same thing

They also have some other tools as well I might have a closer look at.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...