Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Right here is the problem/problems.

1st thing the mods i have are: Big Pod filter, 3inch to 3 and half inch straight through exhaust with 2 resonators and split dump pipe, dsr heavyduty coils, new spark plugs, turbotech boost t. Everything else is standard

So i had the problem of not being able to boost over 10psi with the factory ecu going into R&R. Even when i set it to 7psi it still spikes well over 10psi and is sluggish until it hits the set psi on the boost t, which is weird in itself because it shouldnt be doing that.

So i went and got a mines ecu for my car and it works fine apart from it not liking me boosting over 10psi as well! its not as bad as R&R but has exactly the same feeling. So now i know that it isnt a electronic problem or is it?

My car feels way under powered and sounds like it should be boosting flat out but doesnt move as fast as it sounds.

I thought it could be tired fuel pump or clean the afm?

Tell me what your thoughts are and what i should do?

Everyone please help so i dont end up selling the wee beast.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326789-is-my-car-impossible-to-make-faster/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 126
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well to answer the topic's question, no. Spend some money and reap the rewards. EBC should stop the boost spiking, if that's causing R+R, and/or get a REAL ECU. One that doesn't have R+R, and has to be tuned. It won't be cheap, but will surely be worth it.

Wack it on a dyno to sort out the issue, or get a an aftermarket ecu and then wack it on the dyno. Or even better go to a tuner, talk to them and tell them what power you are after, and they should tell you what types of mods you need. Your wallet will also have to get a bit lighter.....

ok so about the ecu

its an aftermarket mines ecu so how would it have the restrictions of the standard ecu? and if my car does the same thing on 2 different ecu's then how would another one help?

what would the fuel cut defender do for my car?

I will probly take the car into NZEFI later in the week and get them to see whats going on. but not looking to spend that much more money on this thing. with the mods i have and the ecu it should be around 200kw as is. but i think its more around 140kw as on the factory ecu my best quarter mile time was only 15.5 wtf!

so now you all know how slow my car really is.

just sell it . if you were going to buy an ecu and tune it you would have asked about that

you obvoiusly cant be f**ked so just sell it

or expect a big lecture

and i wana keep it and already looked into spending 2g on a power fc and tune and would be happy to do that. the mines is there because its meant to get more out of my car while i save up for the power fc. but looks like not even a power fc will work atm. trying to figure out if i need to spend heaps more money just to get it to run perfect.

There is more to ecu's than a pfc or a mines. Heres a humungus thread on the VIPEC ecu http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pl...ng-t218179.html

There are also several other brands you could go, ie nistune, autronic etc. Do a SEARCH, readup on the forums, go to a tuner and tell them your budget anf your issues, and diagnose your problem.

If your in NZ you could also try a LINK ecu perhaps.

There is more to ecu's than a pfc or a mines. Heres a humungus thread on the VIPEC ecu http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pl...ng-t218179.html

There are also several other brands you could go, ie nistune, autronic etc. Do a SEARCH, readup on the forums, go to a tuner and tell them your budget anf your issues, and diagnose your problem.

If your in NZ you could also try a LINK ecu perhaps.

yea i read up about that but thats alot of money. im just trying to find out why my car is doing this tho because it couldnt be electronic could it? not on 2 completely different ecu's.

First thing I would do if I havent figured out the issue myself would be to take it to a tuner, and get it dynoed, at least then you will see what the car is doing Air/Fuel wise, and boost wise. Then take it from there.

First thing I would do if I havent figured out the issue myself would be to take it to a tuner, and get it dynoed, at least then you will see what the car is doing Air/Fuel wise, and boost wise. Then take it from there.

ok sounds good i will pop into the tuner tomo and see what they can do.

mines ecu is just a remapped stocker, it will still do the same R+R when you get towards the end of the map, just not quiet as bad like you said.

buy a real ecu and get it tuned, my pick would be nistune with a z32 ecu.

and realistically, not many 25s make over 200rwkw with the standard turbo, usually around 180-200 depending on the dyno and other mods

Edited by JonnoHR31

I thought I read it all... but what car again???? Also what turbo????

I'm assuming RB20DET? if so with those mods working well i'd expect around 140 - 150 rwkw, not 200rwkw - as the limit is the turbo. (If RB20 + RB25 / VG30 turbo expect around 180 - 200 depending on boost - but again this depends how much boost you want to run due to ceramic and steel wheels in the turbo)

AFAIK the mines ecu will still R & R - it is just a different map to provide better gains to suit a specific setup. The FCD is a cheap option to get around the R & R when running more boost.

If it's RB25DET then with the addition of a FCD and R & R not taking over (regardless of std / mines ecu) i'd expect around 180 - 200rwkw from 10 - 14psi.

At the end of the day, as everyone has said take it to your tuner they should be able to offer cheap options as simple as a HKS FCD and power run with slight tweak to get AFR's decent to the PFC you speak of and Full MAP tune.

Edited by huddy

Sell the car - you didn't read the advice you got on your last thread or else you would know why the Mines is not doing the job. You should have got EFI to chip the stock ecu and dynotune the car and got yourself a new fuel pump.

If you still have the Mines ecu ask EFI if they can tune it and if not bin it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...