Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not a bad start. I hope you're in one of the states that don't have any p plater restrictions otherwise you will have a tough time getting through your p plates.

WA plates - no restricitons... YET

mate nice 33 just please dont rap it around a pole or try and impress your friends on the street, they already have a bad enough rep.

also how did you find that for 5K ??? whats wrong with it?

Yeah, don't put the BOV on unless you are fitting the stock BOV back on, which you should already have.

ROFL +1

Congrats on the purchase though... looks pretty good for the price - anything wrong with it?

to answer the OP's questions of "What do ya think? Good car for an L plater", for 5 grand i wonder what's wrong with it, and no i don't think it's a good car for an L plater.

and as was said above, just leave the stock bov on there. don't rice ti up with an atmo bov. if you want to hear the stock bov more then put a higher flowing air filter on it.

  • Like 1

your car will have stalling issues if you put a atmo bov on a stock rb25det, don't waste your money and time, just do what mad said and get a high flow panel filter & fmic and you will here the stock plumb back one, and if your after a pod aswell, it is useless unless you fully enclose it, high flow filter is enough flow for now.

  • Like 1
Its an r33 gts-t, picked up for 5 grand cash :)

Stock as a rock, but fitting a BOV and new gasket this weekend.

Probably in the wrong forum, but couldnt find a better one

What do ya think? Good car for an L plater(;

So.. Head gasket??.... "old mate was real honest, it was perfect apart from the headgasket going, and that was only because of the plastic bag that got stuck in the radiator, and nothing else is damaged at all, he was real sad to see it go, he really wanted to fix it, because it is a cheap fix, but his wife just had 10 kids and he has to buy a people mover...."

There is no such thing as a cheap Skyline... Let's pray that with this one clearly having major issues it will not be fast enough to get wrapped around a pole...

nice buy mate, but the wheels, exhaust and wing i noticed in pics arent from factory.

i dont think ive ever seen any skyline go for $5,000, well nothing that has a motor or driveline attached.

you bought privately i assume? i'd get it taken to a mechanic asap to get everything checked out, just to be sure.

oh.. and heed the advice on these forums is my advice :)

Edited by LANDSCRIBBLE
i dont think ive ever seen any skyline go for $5,000, well nothing that has a motor or driveline attached.

I got my 32 for $5k

It ran, but it sure needed some TLC... still needs some now TBH.

congrats to OP on the score. Heed everyone's advice and have her checked out though. Last thing you need is a faulty bilge pump!!

Aha, had a good laugh reading through all the comments(;

The 'gasket' is referring to replacing/repairing the rocker roller cover, which is leaking a few drips of oil. Had a qualified mechanic mate come out with me to have a look at it, just using his terms.

The only other problem would be the rear suspension bushings, which id consider fairly worn. Before I get my license i'll get them replaced.

Also done 172xxxkms, hence reasoning for the price. Besides that mechanically A1 :P

Just picked up a K&N pod filter (from someone on here), which is going in tomorrow.

Theres also a large fmic (from a vl turbo kit) going on in a few weeks. Mate said it should suit fine, anyone with experience care to enlighten?

Dont worry, you wont see this wrapped around a pole on 7 News anytime soon(;

Edited by L-Plater
Aha, had a good laugh reading through all the comments(;

The 'gasket' is referring to replacing/repairing the rocker roller cover, which is leaking a few drips of oil. Had a qualified mechanic mate come out with me to have a look at it, just using his terms.

The only other problem would be the rear suspension bushings, which id consider fairly worn. Before I get my license i'll get them replaced.

Also done 172xxxkms, hence reasoning for the price. Besides that mechanically A1 :D

Just picked up a K&N pod filter (from someone on here), which is going in tomorrow.

Theres also a large fmic (from a vl turbo kit) going on in a few weeks. Mate said it should suit fine, anyone with experience care to enlighten?

Dont worry, you wont see this wrapped around a pole on 7 News anytime soon(;

Gonna need a full hektik stereo and a much bigger wing before you can run with us real racers :P

vindff_575.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...