Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im stuck between a rock and a hard place(probably just another rock). I know my front shocks are very tired, and the rear are so-so. I went to pedders and the quote for all 4 shocks was $1200. WOW!!!,(and not a good wow either). Anyway, so now im stuck with the decision to either do that or spend the equivelant and go with coilovers. 95% of use is just street use, which in Tassie is moderate condition roads.

I still would like comfort, but as im intending on going from a stock 33 gtsts(154rwkw) to just a slightly better 200rwkw, then maybe having some coilovers will provide just that slightly better balance to the car. I have some fantastic windy roads near home that can be heaps of fun aswell.

Do i sacrifice some comfort? bearing in mind i have a mangled disc in my spine too(so a hard ride will hurt).

My price range for some coilovers is up to $1200 so any advice on models would be mucho appreciated. I would like to avoid the junk, but also not blow a budget.

Edited by cptpugwash
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328325-coilovers-or-spring-and-shocks/
Share on other sites

Theoretically, every suspension combo for a R33 is a "coilover"?

If you have windy roads, you want swaybars for handling. So you can afford to run slightly softer suspension. The best is going to be Bilsteins or Koni in the shock department, but at $1000 per end puts it outside your budget. If you can, maybe some KYB shocks with a Kings low spring and upgraded swaybars would seem appropriate (although that total combo is likely to be outside your budget as well).

First things, everyone will be itching to tell you that because Skylines run wishbine suspensio rather then Macpherson struts, they run "coil overs" std.

So i take it you mean an adjustable coil over with rebound/dampening adjustment and height adustment vs a non adjustable arrangmenet.

Adjustable stuff does not have to be harsh and crashy or racey. They can be whatever you want them to be. Look around for pricing on Koni and Bilstein then compare that with Tein Super Street etc. Just stick with a spring rate not much higher then std and the thing will deive nice.

If you nominate a budget it is easier to offer suggestions

$1200 for height Adj only Bilstiens and $300 for King springs, that's what I paid and they are awesome.

The car is a pleasure to drive even on bumpy roads and handles much better than the G4 coilovers they replaced.

Also the car is much more stable on high speed corners when hitting a rumble strip or edge.

the off the shelf bilsteins and kingies are good if u want something street friendly that ur never going to touch again. personally i think they are just too soft to get close to the cars limits for any real hard driving though.

So supersprints are not getting close to the cars limit ?

I'm faster now than with the harder ones they replaced !

So as a street and supersprint/trackday friendly suspension set up they are the best compromise for not much money, if you want hard suspension for driving around be my guest but I got sick of a horrible ride around town and something that when clipping rumble strips it would upset the car to the point of near loss of control.

I did replace G4 coilovers though which are a cheap option, which was still more than the OP was interested in spending.

yeah sorry to say I don't see you picking up decent suspension for $1200. Most of the cheap coilover kits are best described as harsh, they generally run high spring rates and hard shocks to feel "racey".

new standard type shocks to replace what you have + sway bars is the best way to spend 1200.

BTW I disagree about off the shelf bilsteins being too soft. I run them on the race car and they are excellent for such a (relitively) cheap shock. I would have to pay $5k+ to get something better. Soft is good to an extent (or at least, harder is not always better) because it helps keep the wheels on the road.

the off the shelf bilsteins and kingies are good if u want something street friendly that ur never going to touch again. personally i think they are just too soft to get close to the cars limits for any real hard driving though.

I got the bilsteins, they are not adjustable, and have the bilstein springs i think (blue ones) they are awesome if you hold your line right through the apex they hold beautifully, if your turn in too sharp they can dip , giving the impression they are too soft but really you just haven't taken the corner properly..

They are really comfy and perfect for speed humps too, people are constantly amazed at the speed i approach them, its not super low,but it is low...Scrapes leaving my driveway...And thats with the not low S1 bumper

So for everyday, id give them the :P If you can afford them cause i absolutely love them....Really just depends if you want then adjustable...if you set a street car up right first time you want need adjustables anyway.

Edited by Arthur T3

I guess if i wait an extra week or two i might be able to up my budget. But after looking at the price of Tein ss, $2000-$2400, maybe not that much. I have had a glance at the K-sports($1750), and they have some great features, including the montube which from alot of the info ive garnered, are advantageous over the tt.

Another reason i would like some adjustable coilovers over the factory setup is the ability to lower it ever so slightly. Maybe only 30-40mm, any more and i would be hitting the bitumen a fair bit as i occasionally do now. Also any lower would firm it up so much my back would be screaming in agony. Spending $1200 at pedders just for some shocks seems a real waste.

i was going to put in the KONI yellow shocks into my R33 but i bought some coilovers instead just because of there ajustibility and i want to drift so suited the driving style more, i am selling mine if your after a cheap set of shocks :thumbsup:

$1200 for height Adj only Bilstiens and $300 for King springs, that's what I paid and they are awesome.

did that but with basic sports bilsteins that have circlip height adjustment not a thread like coilovers. fitting them in 2 weeks time they are replacing flogged out OEM shocks and springs.

i would not go coilovers in a daily, you are paying for height adjustment, springs that are usually too hard and a cheap shock absorber unless you spend a good deal of money.

Hi mate, just letting you know that we are currently having a sale on the ISC N1 coilovers. Normally $1499 but we are selling 10 sets for only $1199. Once these sets are gone the price will go back to $1499. If you have any questions feel free to send me a PM or email me at [email protected]

Thanks, Ryan

+1 for bilstein shocks and king springs. I replaced some japanese ohlins coilovers with these and its sooo much better. I did gain some more body roll but with sway bars its all gone. Now I fly around corners smoothly taking the bumps instead of bouncing around loosing traction at bad times.

Best thing I have done.

Any coilovers for $1200 will be shit for the street.

U won't get Bilstein shocks AND King springs for $1200.

Just get a full set of new Bilstein B6 shocks and get a couple more circlip grooves machined into em to lower em using stock springs.

Edited by bradsm87
Any coilovers for $1200 will be shit for the street.

U won't get Bilstein shocks AND King springs for $1200.

Agree with the first statement, although I reckon they will be shit full stop.

Agree with the second, but Bilsteins are around $1100 a full set and Kings are $300 a full set. So $1400 has you laughing, what's 200 bucks to do it properly?

$1100 for Pedders shocks - you've got to be joking.

The pedders quote was for $1200, and yeh, i was a bit shocked(no pun intended). But since then i have heard personally and read a few bits aswell about how pedders are a rip off.

I have also contemplated just getting a quote elsewhere, get the shocks done and actually sell my loved r33. I may be in a good position in about 8 months to look at maybe a 96/97 gtr. Truth be told, it was a gtr i wanted to get 6 years ago, but they were all $35,000 or more for a tidy one. Now there are alot around $23-25,000.

So, spend $1500 on suspension?, then look at exhaust, inlet, intercooler?(another $3,000). OR maybe $900, then save my bikkies for a gtr?

WWJD??????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...