Jump to content
SAU Community

Paul's R32 Gtr Track Build


paulR32gtr

Recommended Posts

Cheers Matt - stoked with the way it came out - Andrew @ Meridian is a gun if I haven't said it enough yet.

Picked a darkish silver for the respray today - girlfriend reckons it's got some hints of purple to it but I am bit colour blind so I dont care!! Black for the front bar lip and insert, and same for the 34 wheels - should look hawwt.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Updates will be pretty thin for a while as the car is completely stripped and taken back to bare metal. Will pop some photos up as they become available.

Australian weather has taken its toll on all the seals etc, so I have ordered some brand new quarter windows, door frame and external weather strips from Nissan jp. As much as I like to support business in Australia, the price is roughly half of what Nissan Oz will charge you for the privilege of importing them for you... hmm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah very happy.

I know its the latest craze to bend the front legs in several places and weld them straight to the A pillar, but I think this way is more compliant with CAMS rules saying there should only be one bend near the dash level or something (read in Risking's cage thread I think). Looking forward to setting up a seat and checking how the bars sit visibility wise - I am pretty picky about being able to see where I am going!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if those side intrusion bars where bolt ins, would this cage be legal to have in a street registered car?

or is there too much obstruction of vision in this paticular one.

also, could something like that be fitted to the same car with retaining the whole intirioir minus the back seat?

this may be a silly question, just interested in a street/circuit car with a serious cage like that.

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the only real registration problem with having a full weld in cage like this is the side intrusion in relation to ingress and egress ADR's. You could make the side intrusion a bolt in piece and remove it when driving on the road.

If you remove the back seats you need to re-register the car as a 2 seater - i.e. go over the pits.

Brown davis have photos of one they have done (think Racepace look after the car - grey R32 GTR) - full weld in cage, then the rear seats stuffed in behind the bars, and Vicroads is happy with it - this car is completely road registered as a four seater - you just cant sit in the back!

Another consideration is compliance with seat mounting - you can have an ADR approved seat (like the Velo GPT-2 - my passenger seat), but not sure about mountings - if you can retain the factory mount as well, then you could just drop your standard seat back in while driving on the road.

With regards to interior - you really want that roof lining out if you are taller (I am 6'2'') so the bars can run as high as possible. Once you have a helmet on, and you have padding on the top bars, you are likely to be resting on the padding. Otherwise its really just a matter of convenience - getting to trim panels with bars in the way is likely doable albeit hard, you might wreck them in the process I guess.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the only real registration problem with having a full weld in cage like this is the side intrusion in relation to ingress and egress ADR's. You could make the side intrusion a bolt in piece and remove it when driving on the road.

If you remove the back seats you need to re-register the car as a 2 seater - i.e. go over the pits.

Brown davis have photos of one they have done (think Racepace look after the car - grey R32 GTR) - full weld in cage, then the rear seats stuffed in behind the bars, and Vicroads is happy with it - this car is completely road registered as a four seater - you just cant sit in the back!

Another consideration is compliance with seat mounting - you can have an ADR approved seat (like the Velo GPT-2 - my passenger seat), but not sure about mountings - if you can retain the factory mount as well, then you could just drop your standard seat back in while driving on the road.

With regards to interior - you really want that roof lining out if you are taller (I am 6'2'') so the bars can run as high as possible. Once you have a helmet on, and you have padding on the top bars, you are likely to be resting on the padding. Otherwise its really just a matter of convenience - getting to trim panels with bars in the way is likely doable albeit hard, you might wreck them in the process I guess.

thanks for that buddy, im actually planning this build not too far down the track if everything goes well, im 5"9 so the head room shouldnt be a problem, thanks for the information

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if those side intrusion bars where bolt ins, would this cage be legal to have in a street registered car?

or is there too much obstruction of vision in this paticular one.

also, could something like that be fitted to the same car with retaining the whole intirioir minus the back seat?

this may be a silly question, just interested in a street/circuit car with a serious cage like that.

cheers

I can comment on this as I've had recent conversations with Merdian and Brown Davis. You can have the full interior in there, but it's a fiddle and will cost. I'm considering this route for myself as part of a strategy of not getting pinged by the law when (howsover infrequent) I drive on the road, and for some other sundry reasons too. Full cage legality is contentious at best and can be summarised as 'best you don't get caught with one'. I do beleive it is possible though.......Apart from side instrusion the main hoop diagonals, the roof daigonals and the A pillar visibility are also no-no's. Like Paul says interior space is tight on the R32 (reportedly 50mm less in a 32 cf a 33) but as I'm also 5'9" I've been advised I should be able to retain adjustable runners, albeit they will not be factory and will be able to get the factory seat back in there if required. Even so I reckon head space will be tight.

I'd think a (reputable) cage builder would not do a full CAMS compliant cage with bolt in side instrusion bars for occassional removal.

Hope this helps. Speak with either / both of the above mentioned fabricators and they will tell you straight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd think a (reputable) cage builder would not do a full CAMS compliant cage with bolt in side instrusion bars for occassional removal.

For reference, I have a Brown Davis CAMS compliant half cage with removeable side intrusions, so it can be done. As far as whether removeable side intrusions are legal for Tarmac Rallies I'm not sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For reference, I have a Brown Davis CAMS compliant half cage with removeable side intrusions, so it can be done. As far as whether removeable side intrusions are legal for Tarmac Rallies I'm not sure.

Yeah we did targa with a full bolt in cage, of which the side intrusions were removable - although I wouldn't have trusted them in a decent impact - was just a single bar.

I guess it wouldnt be too hard for them to make a side intrusion like mine, and just have it bolt on in four spots, and the rest of the cage welded in. Wouldn't give quite the same protection but it would still be pretty good I would think.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Not a great deal of movement as yet - should be some more major work this week.

Have received a few goodies in the way of seals, new quarter windows, and a Nismo 320kp/h speedo.

post-12551-1283133702_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1283133807_thumb.jpg

Horrible bronze tint (no more grey tint left in jp) - hoping some 33% tinting will hide this.

post-12551-1283133823_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1283133887_thumb.jpg

Some more pics of the cage without all the rest of the gear it had in it.

post-12551-1283133935_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1283133950_thumb.jpg

Drivers seat mount Meridian put together

post-12551-1283133977_thumb.jpg

post-12551-1283134007_thumb.jpg

Meridian also sorted the door where someone had punched out some of the metal breaking in many years ago.

post-12551-1283134028_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From memory my discussions with Brown Davis had a comprehensive cage around the 90-100kg mark. I think he was saying a Moly cage would come in at about 60kg.

Have not asked Meridian - will ask Andrew when I get over there.

I should hopefully be on the way to cancelling it out having removed:

- Aircon

- Interior, carpet sound deadening etc

- Entire hicas

- Audio system

- Spare wheel and boot trims / carpet / jack

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's probably an underlying issue with the A/C system too. I recently fixed mine, now it's fully control by the Haltech and car's factory HVAC controller  Have a squiz here:    
    • And by the way, I've also checked the ECU diagnostic numerous times and got a bad O2 sensor code and initially an Ignition Primary code, which is why I replaced the O2 sensor and all the ignition components (coil packa, plug and loom). No codes have been coming up lately despite the ongoing issue.
    • Hey pber13, unfortunately still no luck. At this point the following has been done with little or no success: - Spark plugs replaced, gapped to 0.8mm - Splitfire coilpacks installed to replace originals - Replaced Ignition Coil/Coilpack harness with a new genuine nissan one - New fuel filter - Replaced AFM/MAF sensor - Injectors have been thoroughly cleaned with an online flush (without removing) - Upper engine and inlet decarbed - blew tons of black smoke out, cleared the carbon deposits from the top of the engine and exhaust.  - IACV removed and thoroughly cleaned with carburettor cleaner - O2 sensor replaced with new and genuine one -  Smoke test revealed no vacuum leaks - Healthy compression test of 160psi across all 6 cylinders Overall the car does run a lot smoother now, no backfires between gear shifts like it did originally... but the rough idle when warmed up is still there. It may not even be a misfire but simply a rough idle. Seems crazy to me that so many people have had this issue and seemingly no one has gotten to the bottom of it, or at least never bothered to post if they did! Hope you have more luck than I did pber13, I'm at a point now where I'm just going to try to ignore it unless it gets worse. Would love to fix it but I've genuinely run out of ideas of what it could be.
    • I got the full frenchys kit too. Really awesome kit. Easy to install my only complaint was the hardlines I think could be routed differently (I modified mine) but I realise the kit needs to suit multiple applications. This was the hard lines before I modified them. They were touching the wastegate pipe. I ended up reducing the distance between firewall and first bend. The made it so they tucked along the frame rail.
    • Deeve, I don't suppose that you've made any progress on this? My Stagea has the exact same problem, and just like you, I've read through as much as I can online, with no real progress. My car isn't throwing any codes at all, which is a little frustrating. I've changed plugs, checked the wiring and harness. A new MAF gets here next week, but I'm not hopeful it will solve the issue.
×
×
  • Create New...