Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 86
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Looking to join the darkside for a 2nd time ey?

First it was a dirty 30, now you getting excited over GTR's...

Anything else we should know about? lol

Ha sif. I just wanted to see another pos gtr for positive reinforcement of my beliefs. :(

Re said POS for 14k. If its still around at end of Sept then i could be interested. I try to reclaim my life next week. Will be interesting to see how I go....be fun to buy a GTR, and de0file it with GTST badge, V-Tec stickers and just gut it and put it into a wall. Kill it... like all GTRs deserve (not even RIP. Rest in a flaming inferno you gasgety POS)

Except for that R33 of course. Giant shoudl put me on a payment plan :(

I would be real curious to see someone buy a basic used R33 GTR, already with the usual stuff for 22k. Spend 5k on stripping it, race seat, and good pads and seat and harness, tyres. I suspect with steel wheel turbo and 280awkws it would be an entertaining, quick and reliable thing without breaking the bank.

Roy you should know that minus the stripping bit that is an exact description of my R....now the suspn is sorted I can say that it is fun and reliable (so far..touch wood). As for quick....well considering I'm steering it I think it doesn't go too badly :( and with a bit of weight loss there should be a lot more in it.

Roy you should know that minus the stripping bit that is an exact description of my R....now the suspn is sorted I can say that it is fun and reliable (so far..touch wood). As for quick....well considering I'm steering it I think it doesn't go too badly :( and with a bit of weight loss and an awesome driver there should be a lot more in it. I think I'll give to ActionDan to see what it can do.

Fixed

It'll be in a For Sale thread in 3-4 weeks when I put it up - it's a car I have in my possession.

Currently @ Racepace getting a bit of a look-over.

I will start collecting loose change from various couches in poeples houses from now!

Did someone say R33 GT-R for 14k?

PM me details :laugh:

There out there mate. I bought a complete mint R33 gtr a few year back uncomplied for $9000 in Springvale. I've prob bought another 2 or 3 clean r32 gtr's with good mods and blown motors for $8k in the past.

1001big.jpg

Nothing to do with the Thread.

But, this photo is taken on Ferraris test track - Fiorano. The wife and I jumped the fence in 1998 and watched Luca Badoer shake down the F1 car on the Wednesday before the Imola GP. We were hiding behind the barrier at the end of the straight in the photo.

Ahh the memories, thanks for listening.

PS Go with a GTR and upgrade the oiling systems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...