Jump to content
SAU Community

I Wanna Buy A Japanese Track Weapon..websites?

chevelle

By chevelle,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

chevelle Enthusiast

chevelle

Posted
Posted

ok so the story goes.... i driver a 33 as my daily and track car but have recently aquired a new family car for free so my intentions are to sell the skyline and buy a trailer and find something hectic from japan.. just something thats a weapon and can only be used on track.

anyone have any ideas of where to look and what sites to surf??

cheers

chevelle Enthusiast

chevelle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

no just a standed l2s one but i got off the phone to the that place in canberra today with all the rules and they said that if i can show my current cams licec ne with previous track days ive done and ones planned to come with the intended car to import to be used it should be ok... a little more of a hassle but well worth it when on the track i guess.. advice?

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

seriously with a $10K budget forget importing. buy a good local car. there should be some great 80s alfas that will give lots of track fun and plenty of series to race them in. or a datto 1600 or something like that.

With your $10K budget you only have about $4K-$5K to spend on the actual car. $1200 FOB costs, $1000 broker fees, $1500 sea freight, $500 clearance and AQIS costs, $300 taxes, $200 towing. Those costs are all pretty conservative. so allow the last $1K for any blowouts.

With the current exchange rate $4500 AUD is not getting you much yen. about 340,000 YEN. that will just about get you a banger that needs about $10K of work to make it track worthy.

Much like aus good track cars cost a shit load to build and whilst they depreciate like all hell they still cost decent money to buy used. considering the smaller budget you are wasting a huge % of your total on stuff that doesn't add value to your purchase (shipping, fees, agent etc). If you buy a car here you can spend the WHOLE budget on the car.

Another option I would seriously consider is a Go Kart. With a $10K budget you can easily get set-up with a great kart, some spares and some new tyres and still have some cash left to go and play in it. Proper race karts are awesome fun and if you really like it you can progress up to Super Karts which in most series they compete in are the fastest things on the track next to formula 3...

CaptainWillSkyline01 Enthusiast

CaptainWillSkyline01

Posted
Posted
ok so the story goes.... i driver a 33 as my daily and track car but have recently aquired a new family car for free so my intentions are to sell the skyline and buy a trailer and find something hectic from japan.. just something thats a weapon and can only be used on track.

anyone have any ideas of where to look and what sites to surf??

cheers

Try here as Domenic Russo has had a few good track GTR R32 & GTR R34 cars as I am believed to understand shown in Ignition DVD Magazine & Autosalon Magazine but don't take my word for it, do a google search on him to see what you come up with as he says that he imports the toughest GTR's & more from Japan, etc.

http://www.autostyle.com.au/default.asp

http://www.autostyle.com.au/cars_engine.asp

chevelle Enthusiast

chevelle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

wellit all depends on the car... ifi find a nice track built car thats worth importing ill look at increasing the budget.. found some decent cars on tradeview in japan.. decent price too. advice?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...