Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got gas injection on my stagea.

The cons are:

1. I have a big tank in the boot between the strut towers (non spare tyre tank).

2. It doesn't drive as nice on gas as petrol when it's still warming up (when warm, it's hard to tell the difference).

The pro is LPG is cheaper than petrol. But, when you factor in that the car uses more lpg than petrol, the price difference is not what you see at the pump.

So all in all, it does save money, but you won't be cutting your fuel bill in half or anything.

sausage fuel (LPG) should be left for the bbq

Nice opinion dude.

Couple of stags with it in Aus. I cant remember users name but they dont have dual fuel and the gas tank and filler is in identical spots to petrol set up, puts out more power than it does on fuel too.

I've got gas injection on my stagea.

The cons are:

1. I have a big tank in the boot between the strut towers (non spare tyre tank).

2. It doesn't drive as nice on gas as petrol when it's still warming up (when warm, it's hard to tell the difference).

The pro is LPG is cheaper than petrol. But, when you factor in that the car uses more lpg than petrol, the price difference is not what you see at the pump.

So all in all, it does save money, but you won't be cutting your fuel bill in half or anything.

Hey Manwhore,

I am ito looking at LPG in a stagea very seriously.Do you have sequential vapour Injection or liquid injection with your LPG set up?

Were you able to get a donut tank to fit the rear wheel area?They hold a few hundred km but for my application thats ok.

SVI uses about 15% or a little more from my research but how I read your post suggests its alot more for the stagea, or am I inferring too much.

Liquid Injection is the way to go but it seems to me many installers are comfortable with SVI and perhaps dont have the skills to install Liquid injection.What figures per 100Km or $ per km do you have when you run petrol and when you run LPG.

Relating how much you get per tank isnt so informative so a specfic figure would be great.

look at the flippant remarks by others about LPG as they will no doubt have done a lot of research into it :)

Nice opinion dude.

Couple of stags with it in Aus. I cant remember users name but they dont have dual fuel and the gas tank and filler is in identical spots to petrol set up, puts out more power than it does on fuel too.

In my time as a mechanic i have see to many vehicles do the head gaskets after about a year or two

must have something to do with the extra heat in the combustion chamber i think

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I was recently looking at switching back to a s2 C34 and getting a lpg conversion. My other option was a ford falcon wagon (I was looking at cutting costs and really it is just a daily runaround). What I figured out was that when you work out ALL of the ownership costs, there wasn't a whole lot of difference between owning a ford falcon BF wagon on PETROL than a C34 on lpg.

Obviously not everyone wants to drive a ford though...

Other things I found out are:

* at about 20,000 kms a year the lpg system would take more than 2 years to pay itself off, and that's assuming nothing goes wrong. Remember that due to the faster burning nature of LPG (and inefficiencies of current LPG systems, not including liquid injection) you only really get a maximum of 30% savings, at best.

* LPG can be prone to cold start issues (as in taking a few more seconds to start) and also problems fueling up if the tank is hot (ie. in summer).

* You lose a lot of boot space (unless you go with a dedicated lpg system - in which case you better hope the install was done well), making the point of owning a wagon somewhat moot.

* I wasn't sure of a LPG installer who would know how to tune it properly or who would know what they were doing on a stagea.

* With dual fuel you still need to run some petrol through every now and then. You dont want the petrol in your tank to go stale either...so if you're doing a tank of petrol every month that further offsets any savings.

At the end of the day, if you think you'll be keeping your car for more than 50,000kms, then you'll probably at least break even, if nothing goes wrong with the system. If you keep it longer than that you'll start to genuinely save money...but in my case I'd be saving a maximum of about $20 a week. I could just as easily save $20 a week some other way and have a lot less headache and a car that runs perfect on the fuel it was designed to use.

Sorry for my bias showing through...I've looked into it a few times, and it always seems like the best way is to buy a car that is already converted and has evidence of running well. Other than that, the car runs great on petrol. It does cost about $30 more a week to own than a ford falcon but its also a much nicer/better car than a falcon.

i was garenteed no powewr loss, nuthing about fancy pigy backs, nuthin abnout starting ruff,,?

that'll be a liquid injection system then.

At the moment (still) they are only a "duel fuel" setup... sorta as they can't get it working on startup (the lpg evaporates in the lines I am told).

LiLPG systems will run just fine off your OEM ECU without a piggyback and will return very similar economy number to PULP (around 5% difference).

Of course, being that LPG has a higher RON than PULP, if you can have it tuned you will see more power.

Once they figure out a way to have a standalone LiLPG setup, I will be waiting in line to have my current fuel system replaced :P .... but that seems an age away :)

Edited by iamhe77
that'll be a liquid injection system then.

At the moment (still) they are only a "duel fuel" setup... sorta as they can't get it working on startup (the lpg evaporates in the lines I am told).

LiLPG systems will run just fine off your OEM ECU without a piggyback and will return very similar economy number to PULP (around 5% difference).

Of course, being that LPG has a higher RON than PULP, if you can have it tuned you will see more power.

Once they figure out a way to have a standalone LiLPG setup, I will be waiting in line to have my current fuel system replaced :ermm: .... but that seems an age away :D

Australianwarehouse the distributor of JTG direct injection inform me it takes about 40 hours

to get the car set up properly, their employee someone who is very good and that is there

deducted job day in and day out .

They then are confident to sell the system to the installer.

This was very disappointing to hear if I am the only 2002 stagea series 1 owner

wanting to go direct injection.

JTG or the installer wont spend those hours on me unless there is a more

substantial return from other stagea owners.

Emery Injectors for a system supplied by Australianwarehouse using SVI looks

like the way I will reluctantly go but am waiting on more information to be supplied.

The sales rep was very excited about this particular system but then again that's his job.

Also look at aluminum tank construction if space is a concern.

Really?

Odd, I was quote "roughly" $5k by Australian LPG Warehouse in Frankston (same place you contacted) for a custom system in my 2001 M35 Stagea.

Won't be going ahead... if I am spending $5k (after govt rebate) on an LiLPG system, it better be a dedicated system which replaces my existing fuels system and includes a custom tank to replace the standard tank (I would like to keep the spare wheel).

Edited by iamhe77
  • 2 weeks later...

I WAS QUOTED $4-4.5K - GOV REBATES FOR A DUEL FUEL MULTI INJECT POINT SYSTEM, WITH TANK BETWEEN REAR TOWERS, AND A PIGY BAK COMP BUT I WAS TOLD MY STAG COMP IS THE MOST USELESS AND PAINFUL TO CUSTOMISE OR PIGY BAK .......................

LPG IS A HIER RON SO I WILL HAV MORE HP BUT USES MORE THAN PETROLIUM LETRE FOR LETRE BUT OF COURSE HALF THE PRICE !!! SO WHAT DO WE DO ???

I WAS QUOTED $4-4.5K - GOV REBATES FOR A DUEL FUEL MULTI INJECT POINT SYSTEM, WITH TANK BETWEEN REAR TOWERS, AND A PIGY BAK COMP BUT I WAS TOLD MY STAG COMP IS THE MOST USELESS AND PAINFUL TO CUSTOMISE OR PIGY BAK .......................

LPG IS A HIER RON SO I WILL HAV MORE HP BUT USES MORE THAN PETROLIUM LETRE FOR LETRE BUT OF COURSE HALF THE PRICE !!! SO WHAT DO WE DO ???

No need to yell :P

Can't you organise for a Nistune instead?

LPG economy is only significantly worse than PULP if you are talking about the vapour injections systems.

If you go with a Liquid Injection LPG system, you won't need a piggyback and you won't have crap fuel economy.... but you can't have a standalone LPG system either - it requires PULP on startup then changes over automatically.

Edited by iamhe77
  • 8 months later...

that'll be a liquid injection system then.

At the moment (still) they are only a "duel fuel" setup... sorta as they can't get it working on startup (the lpg evaporates in the lines I am told).

LiLPG systems will run just fine off your OEM ECU without a piggyback and will return very similar economy number to PULP (around 5% difference).

Of course, being that LPG has a higher RON than PULP, if you can have it tuned you will see more power.

Once they figure out a way to have a standalone LiLPG setup, I will be waiting in line to have my current fuel system replaced :P .... but that seems an age away :)

These guys have a stand alone system now

http://www.lpgli.com/features.html

got mine LiLPG setup on my 03.. love it. $4700 - $1500 from the rebate. took a week to install.. went from approx 14L per 100 to 17L per 100.. power gains of about 10%.. (would be much better with a tune) i run factory ECU.. and dump pipe thats it.. and runs even better on pure propane. :)

got it installed at Seaview Gas Conversions in frankston VIC.

only negatives is only 300k's out of the tank.. and i have to wait about 30 seconds before nailing it after starting the car up :) dont want to put your foot down to far on petrol as gas is colder temp and higher octane petrol will ping pretty badly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...