Jump to content
SAU Community

16x8 Offset +53, On The Front Of R32 Gtst

clip14

By clip14,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
Posted

lol bad offset for a skyline. To be completly honest that offset is probably more suited to say a pulsar. You will want spacers. Even if the wheels fit they will not be the best looking fitment. Yer about +38 is factory i think. I run 30 mm spacers behind my 9.5 +38 driftecs currently

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted
5x114.3 correct spacing!

ah thats okay then.

Have a look at the offset calculator on http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg4.html

+53 and +38 (assuming same tyre size)

The edge of the new tyre will be 14mm closer to the inside of the wheel well and suspension components, and 14mm further in from the edge of the bodywork.

So im assuming you would need 14mm spacer to bring it out to stock offset. +30 will give you a flush stance on r32's (and possible cause scrubbing depending on suspension setup). So I would assume you would need a 27mm spacer?

Someone verify the above.

edit; fyi. wheel spacers are illegal and can cause more stress on the thread if they are not bolt-on type. You may also have wheel balancing issues if they arent hub-centric spacers.

alr33x Grand Master

alr33x

Posted
Posted

this cant be serious my mongoose has better dimensions..

dude try whatever you can to get out of the deal worst possible choice EVER

dont forget spacers are illegal incase your worried about that side of things

-Jimmy- Mentor

-Jimmy-

Posted
Posted (edited)

Rekin, don't think you've got it entirely right mate. In your calculations you haven't factored in the width of rims. 16x6.5 +40 are your stock GTS-t wheel specs. 16x8 +53 will stick out 6mm more than your stock wheel specs, however the inside of the rim will sit 32mm closer and I'm guessing this will then be hitting your suspension.

Try this offset calculator instead: http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

I think more to the point, where and why did you find a rim that has +53 offset?

In my opinion you'd be better off looking at something like 17x8 +25 and 17x9+30.

Edited by -Jimmy-
clip14 Rising Star

clip14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

they are ssr mesh rims, very old school. picked them up at a great price so just trying to make them work. i wil of course be using bolt on spacers, and the car will be certified (you can get away with more in nz anyway). not sure where the actual rim came from where they'd be usinga 53 offset, never seen that sort of number before tbh!

So just wondering what spacer thickness i need to clear the brakes on the front without sticking out of the guards. from what i;ve read in here, a 25mm spacer should be appropriate?

any other opinions?

cheers for all your help everyone.

clip14 Rising Star

clip14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

calculator using a 25mm spacer says that i lose 2mm of clearance with the strut, and the wheel will extend out towards teh guard edge by 36mm

might fit under the guard, barely, might need to do a little flaring or rolling.

does everyone agree?????? i know the 53 was a bad offset to choose, but i love the wheel and it was a very very sharp price.

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted
Rekin, don't think you've got it entirely right mate. In your calculations you haven't factored in the width of rims. 16x6.5 +40 are your stock GTS-t wheel specs. 16x8 +53 will stick out 6mm more than your stock wheel specs, however the inside of the rim will sit 32mm closer and I'm guessing this will then be hitting your suspension.

Try this offset calculator instead: http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

I think more to the point, where and why did you find a rim that has +53 offset?

In my opinion you'd be better off looking at something like 17x8 +25 and 17x9+30.

yeah you're right, my mistake! Forgot to factor in the width! Cheers for clearing that up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • GTSBoy
      Help! Leak coming under transmission

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • PranK
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By PranK · Posted

      Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...