Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't know about Tech Edge but the Innovate wide band sensor has a narrow band emulator with a seperate wire which is outlined in the instructions so you can just plug in to where your original O2 sensor was. Otherwise you will have to go to a welder and get the spare bung that came with your unit welded in to the front pipe. There is a special spanner available to get the O2 sensor out - you may have to get one or get a workshop to undo it for you.

the exhaust temp makes sense

but thats the first ive seen a 1 meter limit

how far away would the std 02 narrow band sensor be?

you reckon its 1m?

Well supposibly the factory narrow band can be mounted close due to them not being affected by heat as much.

Here is what it says regarding fitment:

http://wbo2.com/lsu/lsuinstal.pdf

Remember however that placing the sensor too far to the rear of a vehicle will often over-cool the sensor, and too close will over-heat the sensor. Turbo vehicles are even more difficult as there are larger variations between boost and non-boost operation.

Turbo installations require the sensor to be positioned even further from the exhaust valve. Initially try 1 metre distance from the turbo outlet. Don't be fooled by manufacturers placing narrowband sensors right after the turbo outlet, wideband sensor will overheat under boost.

I think I might just install it prior to the cat location (even though I would love how easy it would be just to put it into the factory location). I have a exhaust temp sensor in the dump pipe and under full noise the temps really get up there.

Edited by PM-R33

I had a Tech edge sensor mounted in the stock ones position, it lasted about 12 months but did die. Wide band sensors cannot handle the same heat that the narrow band ones can. New one got mounted just before the cat in the front pipe. Current ones been going for about 2 years, no problems.

Ive got one more question for this subject :blink:

where have all of you put the harness plugg between the sensor and the harness to the gauge? the big connection thingy, i dont want it just hanging under the car :S and how well can the cables handle the heat from the exhaust???

Ive got one more question for this subject :blink:

where have all of you put the harness plugg between the sensor and the harness to the gauge? the big connection thingy, i dont want it just hanging under the car :S and how well can the cables handle the heat from the exhaust???

I brought my cable up through the gear lever boot, plugs inside car and it saves running to much of the cable outside and is worth the effort of lifting boot. Just straighten out the lip on the steel plate that holds the boot into place.

I brought my cable up through the gear lever boot, plugs inside car and it saves running to much of the cable outside and is worth the effort of lifting boot. Just straighten out the lip on the steel plate that holds the boot into place.

well i have the cable inside the car i brought it through the hole under the passanger seat, but the big thing that connects the sensor and the other cable is just hanging under the car and that cant be all that good :S so i need some ideas on where to place it, can i just press it over the heat shield for the cat or is it going to get to hot?

  • 1 month later...

hey guys

I've done a turbo swap and I'm gonna be putting the wb sensor in the downpipe just before turbo for time being which is where the guys who made my downpipe placed the bung. I'm not gonna be pushing it hard with this in place - its purely to see what my fueling is roughly doing in the low load cells whilst I get it to my tuners for the rollin road..

p1040072.jpg

I'll whip it off further down the line and mount it in the downpipe to see how it goes then run the wiring through to the cabin.

I'd also like to get it talking to my G4 link ecu I've got installed so it can do the autotune for the lower load cells as I drive.

I ended up running mine in the factory location. I couldn't be f**ked putting it down so far and wanted it ready for my tuning.

The way I figure it is on normal driving there is no way it is doing the sensor any damage (my exhaust temp sensor is right next to it and the temp on cruise is very low). Fair enough on WOT it might get hot for it, but considering they say it has a limit of around 900-1000 degrees, it still doesn't get anywhere near that in my car so it can't be killing it that quickly.

Fair enough it might reduce it's life but if it fails in a years time than I'll consider moving it, for now i'm going to see how long it lasts where it is.

Live life on the edge!

Edited by PM-R33
  • 2 years later...

Thanks for the reply. where exactly should I mount the whide band sensor? 36" from the exhaust lands on the down pipe.

I'm planning on buying a titanium down pipe. would it be a good idea to install the bung on the titanium down pipe?

Thanks for the reply. where exactly should I mount the whide band sensor? 36" from the exhaust lands on the down pipe.

I'm planning on buying a titanium down pipe. would it be a good idea to install the bung on the titanium down pipe?

If you're going to do it you may as well do it properly and put it as close to where is recommended by the supplier/manufacturer.

You may need to get a different bung to weld on to a titanium pipe. I'm not sure if mild steel or stainless can be welded straight onto titanium but someone may be able to answer that?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
×
×
  • Create New...