Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got a r33 gts............

I'll be buying a rb25det engine off justjap auto and putting it in my car......will it be a direct conversion...or are there any other things to change???

please advise me...

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Well the reason I said that was because when I was looking at doing it the engine package was $6-$7K...they're a lot more reasonable now..but it's still going to be at elast $2K to put it in.

The best option is to make an RB30DET out of your N/A engine

Great thread,

I too made the same mistake, that is buying a N/A skyline except mine is and R33 GTS. I am desparate to turbo my engine, however my local mechanic has told me that you cannot turbo the N/A....that is without ruining the engine! Reading this discussion has helped me see what can be done to the engine, with a low cost outlay and surprising gains, Thank you!

However I have a couple of questions,

How does the car now drive?

Is it as reliable as the N/A?

Are you sure that the modifications will not damage your engine?

cannot wait to get my project Turbo underway. :flamed: :flamed:

DanielWilliam: The car currently pulls harder than a stock GTS..this is with the crappy N/A exhaust still in place and running 6.5psi that is probably down to the higher compression :(

I've had the turbo on my car for about 50,000Ks now and nothing has been damaged in that time, from a reliability point of view I think that's great. If the tune is good, you should have no problems...just don't expect to be able to cram 14psi in and you'll be fine.

Great to here that Dan,

It has put to rest the only real concern I had after reading the thread (the longterm future of the engine).

Sounds like the car goes real hard compared to the N/A You had and I have now, mine came with a full Trust exhaust out of Japan which will hopefully complement the turbo well. All I have to do now is get the funds together now and I can start the project.

I guess it is like you said tuning is the difference the car will run well and hard with some dollars in the tuning side of the car!

I will keep you informed to how my conversion comes along. I have some pics of the car in its current state in my gallery.

Cheers mate

If anyone is interested I have everything you need to do this swap

Off an RB25DET

Exhaust manifold

Turbo (No play)

Oil/Water lines

std dump pipe

Inlet manifold/Plenum

Fuel Rail and injectors

If anyone is interested in these PM me and i can send you pics

reason why i am getting rid of them, upgraded to GReddy plenum and getting top mount turbo setup

That list could make my shopping very easy!

That stuff is exactly what I am shopping for at the moment, what sort of condition is the lot in? whats your location in relation to Newcastle? Also with the condition of the parts in mind what is your best price?

Cheers :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...