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Tektrader - What size MC's did you end up with?

No doubt we will be getting some new ones when we get the AP's but hopefully this will be OK for a few months.

Cheers

Mine are actually all wrong now because I changed the calipers again. Before I had a 350Z track Brembo calipers and bought masters to suit.

A while later I decided they wont be good enough and now have front and rear GT3 RSR calipers and rotors and have to redo my master sizes AGAIN.

Graham, the clutch pedal is Aluminium with a 3mm wall thickness, fully boxed.

I'd be slightly concerned if we had to modify the brake pedal like this (against regulations here anyhow). But I think the clutch pedal will never see anywhere near the force the brake pedal would. I'm very confident it will be up to the task mate.

Thats good to know. I have the same issue getting around the steering shaft in the Z. I expect I will have to do the same.

Edited by Tektrader69
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Small update.

We've been a bit slack lately. I'm stuck in Wellington on The Hobbit and Willie is about to head off to the U.S for four weeks.

Anyhow, flew home on the weekend.

Got the master cylinders temporarily plumbed up and the brakes bled. Bled the clutch, drilled out any unnecessary brackets that aren't needed anymore before painting.

Test fitted the seats and harnesses and managed to make sense of the wiring and get the car going enough to take it for a lap around the block.

Also have removed the suspension as it is being rebuilt this week.

This weekend (Mrs permitting) will be change the brake pads and refit the suspension.

Passengers side, had to chop the floor out a bit to make the seat work.

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Door bars in with gusseting, also the dash bar bracing is done (just in front of the gear stick)

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Poor quality cellphone pic of the dash bracing

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Close up of the door gusseting

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Edited by OLLIE_NZ

^

We're in New Zealand mate, those rules won't affect us.

However I am interested to to hear more about this 40 degree thing? (I'm guessing it's relating to the lap and crotch belts?)

Edited by OLLIE_NZ
^

We're in New Zealand mate, those rules won't affect us.

However I am interested to to hear more about this 40 degree thing? (I'm guessing it's relating to the lap and crotch belts?)

think its the angle the harness makes with the back of your seat IE your shoulders, I wouldn't even want it near 40 degrees to be honest, perhaps some of the other motorsport guys can clarify but I think it can damage your spine in the event of a big bingle.

^

We're in New Zealand mate, those rules won't affect us.

However I am interested to to hear more about this 40 degree thing? (I'm guessing it's relating to the lap and crotch belts?)

ohh ahaha sorry didn't notice that.

This is the cams manual that explain the harness setup

http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/10_gen_re...dule_I_Q410.pdf

camso.jpg

You guys are getting mixed up. I think you will find what you think are shoulder eyelets are actually crotch strap eyelets.

Love the seat mounts, very similar to what i have going in my car. Only I dont have a cage to weld them to so how you have used a comp plate on the tunnel, I am going to mirror that on the inside of the bottom sill. Also rather then a socket welded to the tube i am going a gusseted flange cantilevered of the side with a captive nut in a slotted reset so that if i change width seats i can just move the bolting point for the side mount. Hoping it will work well. Its basically a copy of the GT1/GT2 cars so should be fine for my bus

Edited by Roy
  • 2 months later...

Rightio lads, very small update unfortunately.

Not much progress has happened although its now at the painters, hopefully being painted next week.

We're hoping to have the car done by the end of next week in time for some trackdays over the summer break.

(excuse some of the poor quality cellphone pics)

Door card template (have now finished them, made from ABS plastic)

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Test fitting both seats and harnesses

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Quick release spigot welded onto the steering column

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Steering wheel test fit, still not sure if the off set will be correct

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Harness shoulder strap stays welded on

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ECU holder nearly finished

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Brake reservoir bracket welded in

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Wiper motor mounting point moved to the left slightly as the roll cage interfered with the old mounting point.

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Helmet box mounting brackets done

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Driver and passengers floor pan done

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Brake bias nob ready to attach to the roll cage

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looking good mate. :) thanks for the update.

if your car set-up is as well thought out as the car build it will be super quick. :) great welding too of course. :)

  • 1 month later...

Time for some current happenings with the car.

We've had it out to 3 open days at Hampton Downs this month (2nd, 7th and 12th January)

Pretty happy with the car for where we're at with it, the brakes are terrible as we expected.

We've got new stock discs, Goodridge braided lines, Motul RBF660 brake fluid and some dodgy 3" brake ducting. On our last outing we put in some new Endless N35s pads front and rear which were a lot better but seemed to be perhaps a bit aggressive for the stock rotors?

We're getting a bit of a miss coming out of Turn 5 (the hairpin) (3rd Gear) and also coming up onto the main straight out of turn 6 (4th Gear). Is this fuel surge chaps?

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Edited by OLLIE_NZ

Bit of an update fellas as to where we currently stand with the car.

The cage and interior are painted in a mat grey which is the same colour as the factory engine bay

Had the car out to Hampton Downs 3 times this year (2nd, 7th and 12th Jan), brakes are terrible and the new N35s Endless pads seem to been having a good go at the stock discs which are starting to crack (see pics)

Dodgy 3" brake ducting in place (temporary)

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Brake bias adjuster in place, can be moved about but this seems easily reachable when strapped in

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Steering wheel in place, we've retained the factory adjustments which is good (up and down, in and out)

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Drivers and passengers floor mats fixed in place with rivnuts

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Passengers floor mat, fire extinguisher and window breaker in place

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Helmet box mounted

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Door cards are on (temporary as we want some carbon or fibreglass doors) We tried the car with no electric windows but got so hot we had to cut a hole in the door card to poke the switch through

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Looking inside

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Engine bay currently

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Ranga Cusco 2L Oil catch can (seems to fill up after about 15km of hard track driving, quite boring to drain all the time)

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Gauge panel mockup

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3 trackdays old stock brake discs with Endless N35s pads (already starting to craze)

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At Hampton Downs draining the oil catch can....................again :?

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Racing! (Willie driving)

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As it sits this morning until the next outing at Hampton Downs Saturday February 19th (Open day)

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replace the catch tank with the bigger cusco one that sits in front of your battery. you still have a standard sized battery so it'll fit there no problem. also consider installing some improved cam cover baffles it will help stop so much oil making it to the can. the mines ones are excellent. plenty of copies available now but I like to do the right thing and buy the originals, they are not silly money.

here's a pic of the catch tank I mean in one of my cars. it's the 'racing version' and from memory is 3 litre size and fits very nicely. sorry it's not the best pic as you can't see the whole can. it also runs much bigger tubing than the small one you have.

post-3621-0-66214200-1294967374_thumb.jpg

good to see it running!

don't worry about the brake discs that is perfectly normal (at least in my world lol)

re fuel surge....probably if it is a long turn (particularly right) with low fuel level. easiest way to be sure is to try again with a full tank. on good tyres I get surge anywhere under half a tank (standard fuel pump setup). definately worth a surge tank if you are allowed to run one

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