Jump to content
SAU Community

Filling The 6 Sp Getrag

Darren83
 Share

Recommended Posts

Darren83 Community Regular

Darren83

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I know the getrag have been covered quite extensively, but so far i have not come across any threads that i can find on the issue.

Went to my mech to top up additional RP Synchromax of 1 ltre from the side ( the gearbox itself) as previously the supplier ran out of RP.

Driven the car for about 30 mins from my place to the workshop, mech jacks the car up and loosens the drain plug. He is absolutely surprised as to why the oil is draining out as previously he only filled in 1 litre in and it should not be draining out as the level of oil is only half ( He put his finger in and felt its half full)

As he previously have seen the GETRAG boxes opened up, he realized there is a connecting hole from the transfer case to the gearbox. Ie anything more than 2 litre that is filled from the gearstick, excesses will be flowed into the gearbox section.

Im just wondering if this is true ,and if anyone has completely drained all oils ( from transfer case and gearbox) and fill the full 4 ltrs of oil straigt into the gearstick. It was abit notchy before i reached there, but once the full 4 litres is filled in from the gearstick, i do realize gear change is very smooth.

Any similar experiences from you guys?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336888-filling-the-6-sp-getrag/
Share on other sites
T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

i didnt know the gearbox shared the same oil, r34gtr i worked on recently has seperate fills. redline yellow in the box and redline aft in the transfer.....

the fact that both oils are probably red in your car, you could have no oil in the box.... and way to much in the transfer.

Darren83 Community Regular

Darren83

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i didnt know the gearbox shared the same oil, r34gtr i worked on recently has seperate fills. redline yellow in the box and redline aft in the transfer.....

the fact that both oils are probably red in your car, you could have no oil in the box.... and way to much in the transfer.

Yeap, they share the same oil, to add to that, when we drain the oil from both gearbox and transfer case, they both had the exact same color and oil thickness(very subjective though). And yes the colors are red from factory.

If (currently) there is absolutely no oil in the gearbox, should i be experiencing a very notchy feeling?

Didnt fill in any oil from the side, all 4 litres is filled from gearstick, the connector hole will overflow the excess to the gearbox.

Darren83 Community Regular

Darren83

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You 100% sure about that? the transfer should have auto-transmission fluid in it..

The transfer is using an ATF specification fluid, ie the RP Synchromax.

Just need to know if, filling via the gearstick really does overflow to the box and will overflow the right quantity.

Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

You do realize, when you are filling through the gearstick with a GTR, you are filling the transfer case, not the gearbox as what would happen with a RWD skyline?

Also the notchyness can be attributed to not using the proper fluid for the Getrag box as it expects ATF fluid (V160 from Toyota, same as what used in the Supra's 6 speed Getrag) not a gear oil.

Darren83 Community Regular

Darren83

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You do realize, when you are filling through the gearstick with a GTR, you are filling the transfer case, not the gearbox as what would happen with a RWD skyline?

Also the notchyness can be attributed to not using the proper fluid for the Getrag box as it expects ATF fluid (V160 from Toyota, same as what used in the Supra's 6 speed Getrag) not a gear oil.

Yes, i realize im filling the transfer case, and im sure the fluid is proper (RP Synchromax) and the notchiness is only prior to the oil change.

After the change, its smooth and alot better.

However, the issue to note here is if by filling the full 4 ltres in the gearstick, will that 2 litres be flowing over to the gearbox, as the mechanic have sworn when he opened up the gearbox, there is a connector hole between the transfer case and gearbox,

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted

as already stated when filling through the shifter you are filling the transfer. there should be a seperate fill and drain for the box.

Yes, i realize im filling the transfer case, and im sure the fluid is proper (RP Synchromax) and the notchiness is only prior to the oil change.

After the change, its smooth and alot better.

However, the issue to note here is if by filling the full 4 ltres in the gearstick, will that 2 litres be flowing over to the gearbox, as the mechanic have sworn when he opened up the gearbox, there is a connector hole between the transfer case and gearbox,

doo doo Proficient

doo doo

Posted
Posted

just had the transfer case off the R32 GTR and it's completely sealed from the gearbox. There is a hole in the back of the box but it goes into the space between the box and the transfer case where the g'box oil lubricates the driveshaft connection in to the transfer case oil pump. This space is still sealed from the transfer case itself.

Here's a pic of the plate that separates the case from the box. The top hole has a seal and is for the striking rod, the one below has the oil pump for the transfer on the other side and the driveshaft from the box goes in here, the other is for the front drive shaft.

hope this helps

post-48345-1284585498_thumb.jpg

turboedsloth Grand Master

turboedsloth

Posted
Posted

The transfer on this gearbox should be 2 sealed units separate from each other. Which is why they have 2 separate fill and drain plugs. There is no connector hole. They should have a breather on top of each unit

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
Posted

This is however a Getrag - different to our R32 / R33 5-speeds.

Seeing that is uses ATF instead in the gearbox instead of gear oil it is conceivable that the Getrag has a connection between the two.

Maybe PM someone like Snowman - I know he has dealt with the 6-speeds.

Darren83 Community Regular

Darren83

Posted
  • Author
Posted
maybe the seals on one of those connecting holes is blown.

btw why did a "mechanic" put more than 2l of oil in a transfer case?

Thanks for the reply guys, when the mech tried to add in more oil at the side, (via the fill plug) oil is already leaking out, his explanation is that it shouldnt as previously when he opened the fill plug, the oil is still below the mark, it shouldnt leak out.

He put more than 2l of oil in the transfer case because he is under the impression that the oil will flow into the gearbox once the transfer is full.

Spurdo Experienced

Spurdo

Posted
Posted
He put more than 2l of oil in the transfer case because he is under the impression that the oil will flow into the gearbox once the transfer is full.

i think you'd want to know that he's absolutely 100% certain about these things, rather than "under the impression"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...