Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i think he means if the pump is changed without retune it will affect the afrs due to pressure and flow changes

no it won't, the regulator handles flow/pressure, stock pump or 20x600hp pumps, it is still going to operate exactly the same.

um yes it will and it will change proportionate to the pressure increase.

exactly, it is only the regulator that will have an effect on AFRs

Get a bit of ethanol in that sucker. You got a wideband for it yet? 20% would probably cure it. smile.gif

Or just don't use a shit chipped ECU and tune it properly?

all the backyard tuning in this thread makes baby jesus cry

My thinking on this is all the fresh air letting the engine breath cleaner.

The car in example was tuned with sensor on the dump pipe both on dyno and on road tune.

Far more likely the temp correction isn't good enough and the dyno ramp rate does not match the load curves you get with the gears on the road hence different load cells are hit and different afrs.

Edited by Rolls
Or just don't use a shit chipped ECU and tune it properly?

all the backyard tuning in this thread makes baby jesus cry

the ECU was fully tunable 'at the time' it was tuned. We just don't have the software to use it out here.

But the setup for my car hasn't changed, so the ECU is fine for the current setup.

yeah nothing wrong with the tune midori made for that car. they are one of the top 10 GTR tuning shops in the world no question about it. it's a bit richer than our tuning philosophy perhaps but that's not to say it's wrong. it's not stupid rich either from memory.

there are no hard and fast rules that cover every engine and every set-up. each car needs to be tuned on it's merits.

the ECU was fully tunable 'at the time' it was tuned. We just don't have the software to use it out here.

But the setup for my car hasn't changed, so the ECU is fine for the current setup.

Ah fair enough, I assumed it was an off the shelf chip like those crappy mines ecus.

Ah fair enough, I assumed it was an off the shelf chip like those crappy mines ecus.

no dramas :P i know what you mean though, the off the shelf 'canned' tunes for 'any' application are playing with fire a bit

it's interesting though how different tuning philosophies have developed between Japan and Oz though, maybe slight diff, but different none-the-less

no it won't, the regulator handles flow/pressure, stock pump or 20x600hp pumps, it is still going to operate exactly the same.

in theory yer, but in the real world bigger pumps seam to result in slighty richers cars for some reason. maybe not every pump and every car but i bet if you take a 100% stock 33 and run it on the dyno, then install a 044 or similar and run it again you'll notice a difference in AFR's

Far more likely the temp correction isn't good enough and the dyno ramp rate does not match the load curves you get with the gears on the road hence different load cells are hit and different afrs.

like i said earlier, most of the difference will be from different widebands, most dyno ones are high quality items which would be spot on whereas the innovate hes using have been known to be pretty innacurate at times

like i said earlier, most of the difference will be from different widebands, most dyno ones are high quality items which would be spot on whereas the innovate hes using have been known to be pretty innacurate at times

I assume you are talking from experience as you bag the innovative out fairly regularly. Dont some brand names use the same bosch sensor though?

From the other side of the fence, my innovative has been nothing but accurate, more so than some "dyno ones" that get covered in carbon/dropped each day.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...