Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is it possible to tell just from a pic like that??

Either way, they're not factory, so my guess is they are. :P

Wind in 20psi of boost and try to tune it, you'll soon find out :\

I was told they were ARIES.. Just found a picture of a block that the builder listed as being aries they look the same?

I can kinda see the same pattern in them as well? :P.

Is that a 4A block?

different pistons for different engines but the ones up top in your first post are forged

Is that a 4A block?

different pistons for different engines but the ones up top in your first post are forged

I'm not sure, Just found it on the net its a SR20 the guy said it had ARIES Forged Pistons and they looked identical from the top including the machining marks.

The previous owner of mine told me it had Aries Forged pistons just didn't really believe him because he couldn't "find" the engine rebuild receipt when i went to pick it up.

Thanks so much guys :P..

Will standard rods handle 450/460HP or much more? Car has a GT3582R High Mount with 0.63A/R, Tomei Poncams, Greddy Copy Intake, 44mm Tial Wastegate, PowerFC, 740cc Nismo Injectors, Splitfire Coils, Greddy Adjustable Exhaust Cam Gear.

It will be at the wheels..

Do you really need to have an engine builder change the rods? I would have thought it would be as simple as marking the pistons and their direction and bearings and the way they were installed, unbolting the rods, removing the grudgeon pin sirclip and popping it out, bolting up a set of say eagle rods, making sure the bearings arn't scored, connect up the new rods and then use a piston ring compressor to get the pistons back into the block put the bearings back in and torquing it up correctally?

The motor is less than 5000km/s old.

Edited by SLYDA
I was told they were ARIES.. Just found a picture of a block that the builder listed as being aries they look the same?

I can kinda see the same pattern in them as well? :(.

yeah they look like arias, not a bad budget piston... little noisy is all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 12+ months passed so they have no obligation to do a warranty claim. It leaked from the rear circuit. Front circuit was fine, but I tried many times to bench-bleed and in-car bleed (wasted 1L of Penrite racing brake fluid) to no avail. Threw my old BM50 or whatever the standard R32 GT-R BMC is, brakes went back to normal. So from my very limited anecdotal experience, I cannot recommend HFM, even though a lot of their products looks good. Just my experience (I have a genuine Nissan BM57 in a box waiting to be installed now).
    • How dare you sell your unreliable Skyline and buy a reliable, Toyota/Yamaha car with a strong gearbox, torsen LSD and Toyota reliability. At least you won't need to worry about oil pumps, big catch can, oil restrictors, blowing off power steering belts, sheering off 3rd gear, failing ABS relays/pumps, etc.
    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
×
×
  • Create New...