Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i would think a brake upgrade should be a bit higher up the list :\

EDIT: 2,000 posts!

Yeh would be - but the GT-V runs the large stock GTt brakes whick are upto the task. A set of good brake pads is a must.

I'm trying to keep the budget small

I think one major thing that everyone has forgotten about motorsport cars:

Fast

Cheap

Reliable

Pick two.. you can have all of them..

Bear in mind alot of the cars mentioned are getting very old and likely thrashed within an inch of their lives. Its best to gt a car that hasn't been in the hands of several P platers already.. you will spend all your time and money working on it, rather than driving it.

Find an MX5 1.8L from an old fat bawld man who has woken up from their middle age crisis and is selling his MX5.

Find a BMW E30 that has been in the family for ages but rarely driven.

EK/EG honda

SSS Pulsar - Look up SR16VE N1 - and buy one!.. then drop in an SR20VET out of the Jap spec Xtrail.

or just a SSS pulsar with a sr20ve conversion in it (easier than trying to find a N1 VZR), or just a standard VZR pulsar. even with the standard sr20de in the the SSS pulsars go well. just put on a set of extractors and a decent exhaust and they rev out nicely. a set of sway bars to make them handle better (make it get a bit of lift off oversteer) and a decent set of brakepads. there are also a few good brake upgrades for them too.

I think one major thing that everyone has forgotten about motorsport cars:

Fast

Cheap

Reliable

Pick two.. you can have all of them..

Bear in mind alot of the cars mentioned are getting very old and likely thrashed within an inch of their lives. Its best to gt a car that hasn't been in the hands of several P platers already.. you will spend all your time and money working on it, rather than driving it.

Find an MX5 1.8L from an old fat bawld man who has woken up from their middle age crisis and is selling his MX5.

Find a BMW E30 that has been in the family for ages but rarely driven.

EK/EG honda

SSS Pulsar - Look up SR16VE N1 - and buy one!.. then drop in an SR20VET out of the Jap spec Xtrail.

IMHO - I'd try to stay clear of european cars - they would be quite pricey to service considering the target market are P platers this "could" pose an issue of expensive running cost.

Mk IV - Supra SZ-R would be nice:

- It has a 6 speed getrag manual

- n/a

- LSD

- Big brakes

I didnt say mx5 or s13 cause the op said power... lolz

Monetary figure is important here... Best bet is R32/R33/R34 RB25DE or a NA Supra if you wanted to bring common sense into the equation...

Edited by Ten Four
IMHO - I'd try to stay clear of european cars - they would be quite pricey to service considering the target market are P platers this "could" pose an issue of expensive running cost.

Id be thinking if your building a car for the track, you can service it yourself..

Id be thinking if your building a car for the track, you can service it yourself..

unless you are going to make the parts yourself it is still going to be more expensive to service.

if you want to get picky, a lot of cars would get ruled out simply on the basis that you aren't supposed to have engine mods on your P plates so that pretty much rules out any suggestion has a engine transplant.

The whole point of the topic it has to be P plate legal - having engine swaps or major engine upgrades like that are not allowed on P plate restrictions.

KE70 with a 4age will be ok too - but not sure about the legalities for a P plater.

*puts on flame suit*

If it comes to power and budget.

How about a V6 manual VS acclaim (it has IRS compared to the basic commodore).

- external oil cooler

- larger radiator

- Plenum spacer

- High flow filter and zorst

- Suspension upgrade

- Bigger brakes from the VT

- slicks/semi slicks

- LSD

- Lower geared diff for faster accel.

- Some form of body brace/cage - the VB to VS bodies suffer from flexing

MX5 will be quicker than 99% of the NA skylines and supras around a track.

killerwasps aren't everything

Stock for stock?

Highly doubt it on a track, unless we're talking about some track without straights.. FWIW, NA 6 speed JZA80s can manage 0-100 in 6secs.

Edited by Ten Four

lol silly flamin mongrels.

If you're seriously going to track it, get a dedicated track car, and a VN daily or something, and not have to worry about spending a gagillion dollars to go fast, or about driving a fagmobile.

Could always get a Datto of some sort and hot it up, 1200's are worth a fortune for what they are, but go fast parts are cheap if you do it all yourself

Stock for stock?

Highly doubt it on a track, unless we're talking about some track without straights.. FWIW, NA 6 speed JZA80s can manage 0-100 in 6secs.

a supra might have more power but it is also in a platform that has failed and failed again and that is from my experience at QR which is one of the more favourable tracks in aus for a car that is all power no handling

*puts on flame suit*

If it comes to power and budget.

How about a V6 manual VS acclaim (it has IRS compared to the basic commodore).

- external oil cooler

- larger radiator

- Plenum spacer

- High flow filter and zorst

- Suspension upgrade

- Bigger brakes from the VT

- slicks/semi slicks

- LSD

- Lower geared diff for faster accel.

- Some form of body brace/cage - the VB to VS bodies suffer from flexing

*with extinguisher and fire blanket handy...

Lol, as much as commodores are dirty pushrod Bogan boats, it is a pretty good suggestion. These have the best power to weight out of pretty much all the commodores (light vs chassis, decent ecotec motor) and mod pretty well. I ran a flat 15 in a mildly modded VS (chip, silent lukey exhaust and pod) which had 115kW at the wheels (mates car). He then combined that with a bored out intake (home job, took the mouth behind the tb it thin as it would go and roller rockers and saw 125kW atw. If you were to expand upon that and pull off the (disgusting cast iron) heads and give them a fair shave, manifold spacer, mild cam and some better management and I reckon you could get ~ 100kW per tonne. And that’s without mentioning how easy it is to stroke those engines (which popo would never know about).

An IRS model with HD sways, good springs and excellent shocks with some wide wheels and good tyres (easy get some 18x8.5's or something from a newer model without attracting attention), as mentioned the VT-VY brake upgrade and fit an LSD and don’t forget some 3.7/3.9 diff gears, it would be a pretty good daily and track car, and quite quick off the line.

But very very bland, and boring, and still quite sloppy compared to an import, anything early or Australian most likely will be though... I’m a big fan of R31’s, and when I was on my P’s the power was good enough, but if you’re after numbers they’re not overly ideal, and the VS mentioned above decimated me time in my original rb30e (with 108 at the treads, exhaust/timing/XF/CAI).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...