Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Recently I got bit by the rice fever and threw on a kit for the 34 GTT. Kit is sweet as, I'm happy with it, but the problem is that the car sits too damn low, I cannot get it into the driveway, and is almost undriveable(my area has too many humps. TOO MANY!!). I am running on TEIN superstreet. I got the springs wound to let the car sit tight, had a mate put some spacers in it, now it sits about the height of 1 iPhone off the gound. I need it to be at least 1/2 or 3/4 an inch higher. Anyone got any ideas? I have been told I should change to height adjustable coils(top and bottom), but I'm quite clueless as to which coilovers are height adjustable. Please, anyone, help..? :devil:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340500-car-is-too-low-fml/
Share on other sites

They are only 'preload' adjustable not base height adjustable. By making the preload harder it will raise the car.

Got some pics of how low it is? I never thought my Superstreets went low enough personally.

They are wound to the max and even have spacers to make them sit higher to raise the car. I'm gonna get pictures first thing tonight!! Meanwhile, anyone can point me in the right direction for a decent set of height adjustable coils??

You could either change the springs or get a suspension shop to "reset" your current springs to be longer. If you find the current ones to soft or too hard then going for new ones will give you the opportunity to choose a different rate. Fulcrum suspension are the Tein distributors in Australia, so it might be worth giving them a call.

BTW There's no such thing as height adjustable coils (springs?) just height adjustable coilovers, which is what you have.

what kind of body kit do u have to make it sit that low?

i have a pretty full on kit with coilovers and 18's and my car sits at a drivable height.

i used hsd coil overs.

HSD's are base height adjustable so you have much more choice on how high the car is. Mate has HSD's in his s15 and he can lower it just with the base height adjustability to like scrape along the ground or be like a monstertruck

You could either change the springs or get a suspension shop to "reset" your current springs to be longer. If you find the current ones to soft or too hard then going for new ones will give you the opportunity to choose a different rate. Fulcrum suspension are the Tein distributors in Australia, so it might be worth giving them a call.

BTW There's no such thing as height adjustable coils (springs?) just height adjustable coilovers, which is what you have.

Yep, was told by the garage the exact same thing. I love the ride at the moment, its very comfy as a daily driver to and fro from uni, yet still firm and very very balanced for 'those moments'. I did put longer springs in them, and now I've gotten another 20mm which makes the car driveable, but it is insanely annoying having to creep over EVERYTHING while worrying about the diffuser and bar snapping off.

The kit I've got on is a full JSAI Ztune kit. Huge front bar, really aggressive and have since got lots of reviews from friends. Stupid payoff for the rice is now practicality. :P

Kinda off topic I know, but does anyone is southside brissy looking to do a photoshoot? :P

who the hell raises a car unless defected.

man up and learn how to drive.

People who want to fix crappy handling as well, for example, if you're into track instead of rice. I have all the extra adjustable arms/bushes (so could get the basic camber/castor/toe correct), but raising the front from 335 to 350 (ie the 350fr/340rr recommended on this forum) made the car both more comfortable and handle better. Something to do with the more esoteric stuff like roll centers I guess but I haven't read up on that, so I don't understand it. All i know is - the 350/340 recommendation came from people I respect, and it worked for me.

by the sounds of things his car isnt that low at present anyway as 1 iphone standing up is what almost 100mm? thats barely inconvenient.

im also no expert but id say a gtr to a gtst would need different set ups. But thats just a guess.

by the sounds of things his car isnt that low at present anyway as 1 iphone standing up is what almost 100mm? thats barely inconvenient.

im also no expert but id say a gtr to a gtst would need different set ups. But thats just a guess.

Yeah true on both points. I dont know how to interpret the iphone measurement - he should state the wheel centerline to guard since its what gets used here. If he has a full leb kit then all bets are off.

Pics?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...