Jump to content
SAU Community

Best Turbo for RB25DET


Recommended Posts

oh and i forgot to add. I believe that the highflow comes in 2 stages if u wish. Stage 1- 450hp rated and stage 2- 500hp rated. I mean realistically people are getting within 50hp of the claimed hp limit so i reckon 400 ponies is more than enough to satisfy most

what else are you planning on doing to your car? nice big hp turbos are gr8, but if you dont have a good pump, injectors, ecu, front mount, depends on what turbo, custom manifold. and maybe lowering the compresion, if you already have this stuff i would go 2535 or 3040.good for 250-270rwkw+, if you dont have this stuff i would just get your old one high flowed from gcg. good for 230-240rwkw

e stock one is good at low spoolup, even faster if you fit;

1. lightweight flywheel

2. exhaust cam wheel (retard 4 degrees)

3. 3" dump pipe straight off the turbo to a decat or 3" cat pipe

4. hks exhaust camshaft

5. learn how to use the search tool tool.

yup.. exactly.. no point in getting another turbo unless you're getting the most out of what you already have. With "Everything else" you should be able to get down to a low 13.x 1/4 mile which is very respectable. Turbo should almost the very last thing on your shopping list.

yup.. exactly.. no point in getting another turbo unless you're getting the most out of what you already have.

meh :cheers:

there r plenty off good turbos out there for the hp u want

u can pick up some good 2nd hand turbos cheaply - look around

yup.. exactly.. no point in getting another turbo unless you're getting the most out of what you already have. With "Everything else" you should be able to get down to a low 13.x 1/4 mile which is very respectable. Turbo should almost the very last thing on your shopping list.

hi guys, i would disagree with this.

im not sure it would represent bang for buck once you add it all up. I was going to do the flywheel, cam gear and all the little accessory power things etc, but the cost plus fitting of all these just do get small gains works out to be as much as a new turbo. And only for low 13's.

I ended up selling my cam gear and forgetting the flywheel for now and went straight for an upgrade turbo. at 1800$ plus fitting/tuning and the car should run easy 12s.

Granted you will still need a couple of extra things like a Rising rate reg, but the stocky turbo wont match the midrange and top end increase in huff over of upgrade/highflow. Im quite happy at the moment with how the car drives, and dont desire a whole lot of extra power, and now i can still add the little things like the cam gear if i want a bit later on.

(if you go a highflow of the stockie you can probably "get away with" the standard dump pipe too. I made ~230rwkw with stock dump but with an HKS2530 it wasnt real suitable. A good dump is always a good idea though)

Im not saying cam gears, flywheels etc arent worth it, and eventually id like to add them all. Even if you get up near 220rwkw with the std turbo, the torque wont compare to an upgrade turbo. To get the most out of any modifications you'll need an ECU in any case.

perfect turbo eh? well, you really need to think about what sort of hp you want, what support systems you have or will get, what sort of money you want to spend, etc

soo many variables, the problem is, what is 'perfect' for you may not be what is perfect for the next guy, also, by the sounds of your post above, I dont think you have a great grip on how turbos work - dont think I am having a go, cos I'm not.

BIG hp will mean lag - no way around it - to flow well top end, means they wont flow well bottom end, its a compromise. For example the stock turbo is designed for mid range, come on boost early, but runs out up top. Big turbo will come on boost alot later, but will have top end, medium/big will have some mid range with a good top end, but still come on boost later.

A really good alrounder is the HKS2530 - just ask sly33, so if you are after a turbo that comes on boost early, is responsive and gives a decent increase to top end, go something like this, or an equivelant. But remeber also, that a turbo needs support systems upgraded to show its true worth.

I would recommend, as Rob77 has, that you do a search. there is a fair bit of info out there on turbos. then when you are thoroughly confused by it all, ask again, and be more specific, stuff like rwkw goal, where you want good boost to be made, how hard you want it to hit, etc and tell us what support systems you have or will be getting. Lastly, an indication of budget is a good thing too.

I've had two opposing views of the 2530, 2535, & 2540 on RB25...

One side definitely go for these turbos as stock injectors can still be used with this range, and it spools up faster... Although for 2540 might be on the limit of injectors and better to upgrade them. Fuel pump still needs to be upgraded.

The other side is against this turbo as it's too small, keep spinning the wheels on 2nd, 3rd gears and the power curve drops off before building enough desirable power... This side recommends to go a minimum of 2835 or above like 3037. Upgraded fuel pump and injectors are a must.

Which one is which now...

im not sure it would represent bang for buck once you add it all up. I was going to do the flywheel, cam gear and all the little accessory power things etc, but the cost plus fitting of all these just do get small gains works out to be as much as a new turbo. And only for low 13's.

Problem is quite a few people stick a bigger turbo and still only get high 12's. As they have neglected much of the handling and support issues like good tyres, handling items, etc because they're dont want to waste money on that.. but when you consider the total costs (AFM, ECU, turbo, fitting) there is not much way to get it all done for much change out of $5k. That buys a lot of other stuff. But yeah, big turbo gives the most instant hp no doubt about it.. but if its just "bang" spin, spin on the wheels.. stupid.

Other option to the HKS 2530 which is looking nice is the Trust 517z (for around 230rwkw).. or 518z (for around 250rwkw).. Pretty much same torque curve, just the 517z drops off a little earlier. Depends whether you believe in trusting plain bearing vs ballbearing. Trust has been building plain bearing turbos for a long time, obviously they see no need to go for ballbearing. I've been looking a little, these turbos can be had for under $2500 shipped from japan new. Not too exxy.

lol - you've got a silvia anyway! what u talking about.. different turbo combos you need for the silvia. Generally you can get away with smaller for same power as the rb.

  • 4 years later...

Old thread but.....

Does hi-flowing need to be done professionally or can just buy the Hi-flow kit from a vender and bring your turbo to the local machine shop to make it fit?

Edited by teng

Hey Teng,

Highflowing must be done professionlly, As its balanced and the housing is machined for bigger wheels etc.

There area few companies, But GCG is very highly spoken of and recommended. :D

Usually you send off your existing turbo and usually within a week you recieve it back for to bolt back on.

If you carnt have the car off the road for long, they may be able to sent one out done for you and you simply send

your old one back to them, And away you go.

The above applies not only to GCG but other turbo builders too.

Check the RB25 Dyno thead to see results of the highflow and

may other turbo on the RB25. :D

:) Cheer

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...