Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I looked into actual 2860RS' (instead of the high flow I had), 2871s, 2876s, 3071s, T518zs, TD05s, TD06s, RX6s, etc etc etc ad nauseum, I now know more about those than I'll ever have the need to, while the 6258 may not be the best 'bang for buck' for most punters, for my dollar, it was the only way to go.

As you go along, can you kindly list items you have bought or modified in order to get it running well?

It would certainly benefit the whole community.

Sure thing. :)

The list so far,

Manifold (not strictly necessary)

Intake pipe

Outlet pipe

Dump pipe

Water fitting on the block (comp cover fouls it, yet to trial any solutions)

Oil drain line

So far that's it. I can't foresee any other issues aside from those. But I'll post them as they come.

  • 2 weeks later...

4) The BP ratio should be intake pressure higher than exh pressure, until approx 5500rpm. from that point to redline, it should be 1:1

Geoff,

From reading around maximum is 2.5:1 ex/in pressure ratio. I have checked with the matchbot for both the 6255 and 6258, both exceed your 1:1, ratio. They are 1.6:1 and 1.5:1 pressure ratios, respectively. From talking to several tuners. This is optinum.

Ultimately I been trying to compare them to the GT2860r-5's, and if they fare well I will purchase a pair of EFRs.

I could use help by a dyno chart of either 6255 or 6258, and the boost graph included. This would help my decision matrix.

Thanks,

Joe

Edited by Sidwysracr

Sure thing. :)

The list so far,

Manifold (not strictly necessary)

Intake pipe

Outlet pipe

Dump pipe

Water fitting on the block (comp cover fouls it, yet to trial any solutions)

Oil drain line

So far that's it. I can't foresee any other issues aside from those. But I'll post them as they come.

Is your motor built? If not, what is your expectation for things breaking down? Including your said manifold.

I may be running an SR soon and am out of touch with their capabilities.

Unopened. :)

I played with the idea of a simple rebuild while I was waiting, but knowing how things snowball, I decided against it to save my bank account.

Only internal modifications will be a set of BC step 2 cams. I'll likely go back to standard manifold, don't much like the design of the A'pexi.

Aiming for 250 on a nice safe E85 tune. Another 30 or so before I start worrying about the bottom end.

My only concern at this stage is the gearbox. I reckon I'll lunch that well before the motor shows signs of going to the scrap heap in the sky.

well I have some news. have a set of 6258s for a GTR on the way now. :) Full kit with full race manifolds, twin 6258s etc. This particular car has run -5s and -10s so it'll be a great comparison. I'm hoping for -10 power with -5 driveability.... I think they'll deliver but there's only one way to find out..... bear in mind they are quite a bit of airflow. 44lb each is a lot of powa for a little 2.6L engine.... :)

well I have some news. have a set of 6258s for a GTR on the way now. :) Full kit with full race manifolds, twin 6258s etc. This particular car has run -5s and -10s so it'll be a great comparison. I'm hoping for -10 power with -5 driveability.... I think they'll deliver but there's only one way to find out..... bear in mind they are quite a bit of airflow. 44lb each is a lot of powa for a little 2.6L engine.... :)

Keen to see results here

So twin high mounts? How 90's JDM of you Mr Baron!

lol. they should be awesome.

Consider this. look at the EFR range and consider the 9180 flows 94lb/min. a single 6258 flows 44lb/min I would say it's not unreasonable to expect them to produce 80lb/min combined in a twin GTR set-up. that's 800hp of air.

the car they are going on has run 2530s/-5s and made the usual 350kw or so. it's also run GTRS/-10s and made the usual 400+ kw but with typical surge down low that's a pig to drive through (even on the track).

I would like to think these will be close to the -10 power but with close to -5 response. I wouldn't be disappointed if they make a little less than the -10s but without the surge down low and with fat midrange.

I'm not sure if anyone else has bought a set from full race for a GTR apart from the one in the US they tested on. so this may be the first 'retail' set that goes out the door.

hope to have them arrive next week.

The other turbo I got from BW/FR is here and has already been pipped up etc and should be running very, very soon. it's the big boy 9180. another mate of mine has a 8374 coming soon so it'll be interesting to compare the 3. in power terms it goes 8374 then twin 6258 then single 9180. I'm keen to see if that's how it plays out in real life and what kind of power/response compromise we get. the only difference really is the 9180 is on a 3L the other 2 are both 2.6.

Unopened. :)

Awesome. I might 'boost it till it blows' with mine and see what comes about. Its been making 200odd @ 14pound since I built it in 03ish so it will be interesting to see how it likes more lol. Having a 4 pot again reopens my interest for the EFR, cant wait to see yours in action!

Also super keen to watch Beer Baron pioneer the SAU EFR stage!

Twin high mounts? what is JDM about that lol...

Think pre hype era, when a modified GTR was very much jap territory. Then think big twin kits... What was available back then? Some pretty ordinary garrett stuff and the ageless TD range.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...