Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

-Vband inlet/outlet IWG 0.85 A/R singlescroll
-Vband inlet/outlet EWG 0.85 A/R singlescroll (im dying to run 2x on an R35)

Are these going to be the Tial V-band? IE the Tial GT28-35 size V-band flange?

yes, the inlet flange is the same for these EFR7163 vband housings as for the Tial gt28-30-35 vband housings

When will these become available?

*prepares Mazworx V-band manifold* I knew I'd been saving this for a reason :)

if you are used to upgraded twins, the twinscroll EFR8374 gives up nothing. For your 400kw target it is easily achieved with conservative tuning and moderate boost. The 0.92 a/r nor the internal WG will present any restriction at this power level. EFR turbos are far from lazy or laggy *as long as its a proper twinscroll divided manifold* and the turbo should be 'on' by 3500rpm, full boost by 3600. this is still my all time favorite single-turbo that ive run on my personal rb26.

:cheers:

Since I only get about fullboost by 4000ish with my -5s setup, this mean the 8374 will actually be spooling quicker ? The more I read, the more I'm tempted to do it. It's just al these custom thing that need to be done to fit these on a rb26. I saw raw's manifold didn't require relocation of powersteering, wouldn't a 8374 fit on these manifold ?

Since I only get about fullboost by 4000ish with my -5s setup, this mean the 8374 will actually be spooling quicker ? The more I read, the more I'm tempted to do it. It's just al these custom thing that need to be done to fit these on a rb26. I saw raw's manifold didn't require relocation of powersteering, wouldn't a 8374 fit on these manifold ?

Best advice:

You want it done right, use the parts it was designed to go with, go with the Full race kit. Who better than Full race to produce the kit since they were part of the R&D. A badass turbo doesn't go cheap like dinosaur -5 bolt on.

For what you're after you're fine but if you don't mind spending more, the 7163 will be the turbo you want vs the 8374 which is much more power than you want.

Best advice:

You want it done right, use the parts it was designed to go with, go with the Full race kit. Who better than Full race to produce the kit since they were part of the R&D. A badass turbo doesn't go cheap like dinosaur -5 bolt on.

For what you're after you're fine but if you don't mind spending more, the 7163 will be the turbo you want vs the 8374 which is much more power than you want.

I highly doubt you will get 400kw with a RB26 on a 7163, stick with 8374

Edited by Sub Boy32

I highly doubt you will get 400kw with a RB26 on a 7163, stick with 8374

To be totally honest, I believe my setup could make more power but the -5s are beeing the bottleneck. HOWEVER, who really needs more power when speed limit are 100kmh and your already faster/as fast stock gtr/r8 ?

Am I aiming a certain power range ? Not really... do we all want more ? of course. but if I could have the same power the -5s make with the spool my gt-ss had. I would be a happy man. Geoff's advice was that 7670 was too small on rb26.. hence why I named the 8374.

I don't think he's making 400kw. but I could be wrong.

I don't care about number. everytime you ''brag'' about a number. theres one guy who will bring the '' this X dyno is better than Y dyno'' ''your tuner didnt set his dyno properly'' yada yada. Let just say, Poncam B and -5s , get the idea.

post-80095-0-73281000-1386415759_thumb.jpg

7670 results.

Firstly, I must say that we had boost fall over as you can see we went from 22-17psi. Thats because of the 7 pound spring in the gate.

Secondly, is was a very hot very humid day and engine was heat soaking manifold real bad.

Also the 3 inch exhaust isnt helping. I need 3.5 realisticly.

Otherwise, its an animal. That is tuned on the the following

'Built' 25 (balance, rods, cp's etc etc)

Greddy manifold

Plazmaman inlet

Big cooler

256 poncams

Nismo 555 inj

600+ cc of water meth

caltex 98

and the other supporting goods.

We had a fair bit of wheelspin on the rollers as well. Didnt realise until after though...

Its not coming on at the late 3000's but more the mid 4000's rpms. Around the 3k and under its not real different to the t04z..

What I can say though that the dyno doesnt is the transient boost response. Its f****ng unreal. It pulls unreal right through, and if you break traction its crazy how fast it responds, even between gear shifts its like its supercharged.

Its like a whole new car to drive, but still placid in the cruising rev range.

Not any time soon I plan to do 3.5 exhaust and put in a bigger spring, but not in a hurry.

My tuner believes it should do near 400 with out the wheelspin, bigger spring and exhaust.

Feedback?

Edited by abr33

^^ You really think a 3.5 inch exhaust would make the difference here ? So without the enmormous boost drop and on a dynapack, im pretty sure you would've of got to the 400kw mark and thats with a 7670 on rb25.

Great result ! :)

Just curious is there a reason why you start your run at 3800 ? instead of 2500 for say?

Firstly, I must say that we had boost fall over as you can see we went from 22-17psi. Thats because of the 7 pound spring in the gate.

Secondly, is was a very hot very humid day and engine was heat soaking manifold real bad.

Also the 3 inch exhaust isnt helping. I need 3.5 realisticly.

Otherwise, its an animal. ..Its not coming on at the late 3000's but more the mid 4000's rpms. Around the 3k and under its not real different to the t04z..

What I can say though that the dyno doesnt is the transient boost response. Its f****ng unreal. It pulls unreal right through, and if you break traction its crazy how fast it responds, even between gear shifts its like its supercharged.

glad to hear everything is running and you enjoy the setup. a few things to look at:

-This 76mm EFR should come in much faster than the 84mm T04Z, according to the chart: 200tq @4200rpm your spool is a bit later than we are used to seeing (but the run started later than usual). Start by searching for some boost leaks (couplers, leaky IC core, cracked intake manifold, bad TB seals, bad injector oring seats) or possible pre-turbo exhaust leaks .

-wg spring - go slightly stiffer should give a nice bump in low end, 7psi is a soft spring

-i expect 3.5" exhaust would not gain anything at this power level

  • Like 1

How does this WMI much compare to running E85? Decent power, response sounds good but that boost threshold sounds really disappointing... Like to be comparable with a T04Z at low rpm isn't flash, at all. I hope you end up finding a cause and fix as struggle to imagine that as being right.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

That's all just Off my first impressions too. I know I have a very small leak at the tb as the water was bubbling a little. Not what you'd say to make much change. And don't get me wrong, it's much faster than the z. Just Off boost eg 3k it makes about 8 pound where the z made about 5, its not a problem though. It doesn't feel laggy at all as it speeds up with engine in a way I can't explain. It's going to be dangerous in the rain haha. Once I sort the leak I'll see how it is. I might try get on the air strip for a video of the response?

Overall love it. :)

  • Like 1

^^ You really think a 3.5 inch exhaust would make the difference here ? So without the enmormous boost drop and on a dynapack, im pretty sure you would've of got to the 400kw mark and thats with a 7670 on rb25.

Great result ! :)

Just curious is there a reason why you start your run at 3800 ? instead of 2500 for say?

No idea. Only that run was short all others were from under 3

New page on the FullRace site: http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/borgwarner-efr/borgwarner-efr-7163-turbo.html

I find it very hard to believe that BW have managed to squeeze a usable 61lb/min out of a 71mm OD compressor, but I would be both silly and hypocritical to say it can't be done because I haven't seen anything like it before and don't know exactly how BW have done things in order to reach that claimed performance.

Very very very interested to see how things go when these start showing up on some cars, if it does meet the claims then this should be a game changer all by itself.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...