Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Someone is paying attention!

Ok, how about WRC cars...

Well

the antilag setup works almost like a blow off valve

dumps pressure from the intake into the exhaust manifold

They were also rebuilding the whole car and replacing turbos after every event

  • Like 2

Alex, everyone has differing opinions and theories, and sometimes mine are well out of the box, but I also prove mine on many occasions by making it work and getting the results. My theories have yet to let me down in practice, and I help build quite a few high power cars for customers. No-one is wrong in any situation, and if your 'Bolt-on' approach is easier by all means go for it. Remember, there is always a better way though.

This bloke! :)

The whole point of the turbo speed sensor is so you can make sure where on the compressor map you are. Going outside of that compressor map is for people that have dyno queens, or run some sort of ice box for drags, as it superheats the air, reduces effency and increases chance of engine damage.

Borg Warner broke the existing turbocharger mold when it created the EFR line. One of the main goals was integrating other turbo system components into the turbocharger. This ploy can save time, money and headaches. The biggest integration is the inclusion of an integrated blow-off valve. No more bung welding on delicate intake pipes. The BOV is laid-out as a compressor recirculation device that redirects the charge air from the turbo's compressor outlet to a low-pressure point just before the compressor inlet, which really helps keep the unit spooled between shifts.

I think you mean innovation.

They haven't done anything amazing they have just allowed Joe Average buy a turbo with all the fancy stuff for a cheap price (in comparison to a real motorsport turbo that retail around $10k).

You keep reading of the catalogue you need to think about what the actual turbocharger is doing and what is happening to the air.

-sigh-

If you guys on actually care for all the technology offered in this package.. why bother for such an expensive turbo with barely any results... Why not just got for a proven Precision, which happen to make the light switch power your interested in, all for a low cost... AND no real mounting issues....

The whole point of the turbo speed sensor is so you can make sure where on the compressor map you are. Going outside of that compressor map is for people that have dyno queens, or run some sort of ice box for drags, as it superheats the air, reduces effency and increases chance of engine damage.

Oh crap, FP don't have compressor maps... Whatever would you do in that case?

The sky is falling... :P

Why not just got for a proven Precision, which happen to make the light switch power your interested in, all for a low cost... AND no real mounting issues....

Just ceramic bearing failures. :/

Been there tried that...

Oh crap, FP don't have compressor maps... Whatever would you do in that case?

The sky is falling... :P

FP make good street turbos, and the best 'bolt-on' solution for a number of make and models.

But personally, I just don't know where mine is (on compressor map), which is why I run it on such low power on track. I just want consistent power. I think FP make great compressors, but it frustrates me they done provide compressor maps. Oh not to mention that it annoys me about the turbine side and dump pipe design...

You can hardly call FP in the same league as EFR, ESPECIALLY in motorsport applications.

I run Garrett and recommend them whenever possible.

What I am after is a cheaper EFR without the bling. I only want the turbine/shaft preferably, shoved into a Garrett GTX core.

If Garrett release a Ti wheel, BW will have missed their chance of a lifetime. No skin off my nose.

FP make good street turbos, and the best 'bolt-on' solution for a number of make and models.

But personally, I just don't know where mine is (on compressor map), which is why I run it on such low power on track. I just want consistent power. I think FP make great compressors, but it frustrates me they done provide compressor maps. Oh not to mention that it annoys me about the turbine side and dump pipe design...

You can hardly call FP in the same league as EFR, ESPECIALLY in motorsport applications.

Why do you need a comp map....wouldn't a IAT/EGT sensor combo and a tune pushed to the limits of diminishing returns be enough to tell you if you are in its "efficiency zone"...?

Why do you need a comp map....wouldn't a IAT/EGT sensor combo and a tune pushed to the limits of diminishing returns be enough to tell you if you are in its "efficiency zone"...?

Correct, and be much more accurate than a made up map to suit a made up application.

Every engine will behave differently, depending on what you have in the way of restrictions to flow. After all, boost is only a measure of restriction.

You can hardly call FP in the same league as EFR, ESPECIALLY in motorsport applications.

NONE of the alternatives mentioned are in that league though - so that doesn't really say too much. FP don't release compressor maps but there is enough info out there to get a reasonable idea of what the different compressors flow like where, definitely enough to get an idea of where each sit in the scheme of things, lack of compressor maps don't hurt Precision and to be fair I suspect 90% of people here don't really pay attention to comp maps or other related info and dynamics when choosing turbos.

FP have some epic turbos, Garrett also suffer the same lack of twin scroll housing etc stuff you are complaining about - funnily enough most of the same housing options are available to both. The FP Black is a pretty awesome turbo, have you actually had it running and tuned yet?

  • Like 1

The FP Black is a pretty awesome turbo, have you actually had it running and tuned yet?

Yes it is an awesome turbo. I haven't run it on my new setup, only my old 2.3L. We didn't run it too hard, only 23psi in which it made a very lazy 300kW on e85.

Spool was really good for a turbo its size, but transient response wasn't the best... Journal bearing turbo..

I run Garrett and recommend them whenever possible.

What I am after is a cheaper EFR without the bling. I only want the turbine/shaft preferably, shoved into a Garrett GTX core.

If Garrett release a Ti wheel, BW will have missed their chance of a lifetime. No skin off my nose.

I am inclinded to agree. If I had my choice again I would have gone Garrett, but at the time they didn't have the range in the GTX series or the range of housings.

Yes it is an awesome turbo. I haven't run it on my new setup, only my old 2.3L. We didn't run it too hard, only 23psi in which it made a very lazy 300kW on e85.

Spool was really good for a turbo its size, but transient response wasn't the best... Journal bearing turbo..

Oh you have the non-DBB one - for some reason I thought it was the DBB version. I've only experienced the 82HTA compressor in a twin scroll GT3582R HTA setup and that was really really impressive response for the power it was making, "only" a pump gas setup too making around 500whp (DD rolling road style) on a 2litre. GTX I feel is more miss than hit given how far behind Precision and FP they were in releasing their technology, most the FP wheels offer better flow versus response - though now they've raised their prices (when GTX came out the HTA were cheaper) there seemed pretty much no point bothering with the GTX range, though now if you want an HTA with a non-plastic bearing cage it's pretty expensive.

For RBs the EFRs are easily the best, they aren't particularly hard to fit big singles - not a lot more expensive considering the performance, and strong as anything... I find it weird that people have issues with the extra bits, they perform and save other bits of expense... especially if you are building a new setup. Not having to fabricate a place to fit a BOV, and buying the BOV in the first place definitely will save some coin and space and I don't mind the look of them, I reckon they look pretty serious business as opposed to yet another Garrett/Honeywell stamped compressor cover that could be anything from a T3/T4S up to a GTX3582R.

  • Like 1
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...