Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^ Further more...

I wonder if the compressor wheels on the Airwerks line of BW turbos can be interchanged for the EFR compressors.
EG - Purchasing a EFR8374, removing the 62/83mm compressor and replacing it with a BW 64.5/88mm compressor... The turbine side should be large enough to still power that size compressor??

^ You don't think BW will develop a 64mm turbo?

My response was moreso in reference to a hybrid thing of potentially mismatched technologies, althouth in respect of this question I would say no. I don't.

The current field feedback doesn't appear to indicate a void between the two that would necessitate a new product, particularly considering the smaller demographic at the target outputs. Most of the early comments (admittedly from the likes of FR) read to the tune of "go bigger, you won't miss anything".

Sometimes its good to roll back and have a second read of the thread to form a better opinion on this sort of thing. A varied knowledge base like what most full-time SAUers have leaves our opinions a little tainted, and I feel we may be searching for a 64mm alternative purely because other hot-topic competitor outfits have them. Correct me if I am wrong but even FP have jumped on the PTE sizing bandwagon.

Anyhows, such is another opinion.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Here I am again, I took 2 weeks to read the whole 94 pages..

Long story short : RB26 Head need a rebuilt, I was leaning toward a RB28 + billet 60mm on my twins ; A few friends told me it would weaken my block and would push the turbos to their limits = not so ''safe'' and reliable option.

They told me to stay rb26 and put a single... more reliable and the single won't be pushed to the limits., I like the idea, so I want a EFR!! :D

RB26 Forged piston + type-B poncam ( I could swap them if needs to be..), I would really prefer to keep my 3 inch exhaust ( it's quiet and cops never give me trouble). IT WOULD BE TUNED ON 94 octane + WMI (aquamist kit).

I want response ( I used to drive GT-SS and somewhat missed the quicker response the gt-ss had Vs. the -5s) and I reckon IWG 0.92 would spool quicker than 1.05 and would be a good load cheaper!

- Considering I only have acces to 94+ WMI.. I don't think going any higher than 26-27psi is recommanded, Agree on this ?

So which EFR, should provide me the best response/power at 23-27psi on a 2.6L ? is 81/90

83/74 0.92 IWG ? ( I would upgrade to the Turbosmart IWG EFR option) I'm hesiting because sub-boy did 640whp on a rb30 with this turbo.. so with 400cc less and 3 inch exhaust vs 3.5, should I be expecting approx. 600whp out of it ? or even less..

(without beeing a dynoqueen, I somewhat wished to break the 600whp marks ( I was at 573whp with my -5s), but ''transient response'' is still more important in my book than the bragging number)

Edited by cobrAA

I run both 8374 and 9180 turbos on my 2.6L engine, the EFR8374 is my call for a street driven 2.6L rb26... 1 bar by 3400rpm and so much fun to drive. The 9180 is a bigger turbo, comes on later and hits much harder. Regardless of this, the WG config will depend on which fuel you are using and your boost targets.. for a street car the 0.92 makes a lot of sense. i prefer the IWG because it is so simple and lightweight, but externals do have their benefits also

I run both 8374 and 9180 turbos on my 2.6L engine, the EFR8374 is my call for a street driven 2.6L rb26... 1 bar by 3400rpm and so much fun to drive. The 9180 is a bigger turbo, comes on later and hits much harder. Regardless of this, the WG config will depend on which fuel you are using and your boost targets.. for a street car the 0.92 makes a lot of sense. i prefer the IWG because it is so simple and lightweight, but externals do have their benefits also

your 8374 is the 1.05 right ? so should the 0.92 spool a tad quicker then ?

As for your question, I said in the previous post, we only have acces to 94 octane and I added WMI, so I imagine 27psi should be approx. the max I could go without being in the danger zone.

thank you

I run both 8374 and 9180 turbos on my 2.6L engine, the EFR8374 is my call for a street driven 2.6L rb26... 1 bar by 3400rpm and so much fun to drive.

1 bar at 3400 in 4th on the road? How about the 9180?

Videos please!!! That's almost enough to convince me to switch from my 6262 (if it fits on my manifold), in fact if I can make 700hp on a Dynapack with SAE2004 with a 8374 T4 1.05 and it makes 1 bar by 3400 I will purchase :)

your 8374 is the 1.05 right ? so should the 0.92 spool a tad quicker then ?

As for your question, I said in the previous post, we only have acces to 94 octane and I added WMI, so I imagine 27psi should be approx. the max I could go without being in the danger zone.

thank you

Im switching back to 8374 0.92 a/r now. We have a new shop track car to focus on, so my Nissan will go back to being a fun casual project. Considering your boost limits and fuel, I agree the 0.92 could work well. Just expect the turbo to run out of exhaust flow around 625-645whp as opposed to 700-730 with the external gates and 1.05 a/r

1 bar at 3400 in 4th on the road? How about the 9180?

Videos please!!! That's almost enough to convince me to switch from my 6262 (if it fits on my manifold), in fact if I can make 700hp on a Dynapack with SAE2004 with a 8374 T4 1.05 and it makes 1 bar by 3400 I will purchase :)

compared to 8374, the 9180 came on song ~400-500rpm later. I can not verify fitment on other company's manifolds, but even on the older Full-Race RB manifolds the EFR will fit no problem. Just make sure its divided with dual wg for optimal performance. If a gt40R can fit it then EFRs can fit

here is a dyno video from a couple years ago when my car had 8374 1.05 a/r on a dynapack with R33 trans and catalytic converter:

Edited by Full-Race Geoff

Im switching back to 8374 0.92 a/r now. We have a new shop track car to focus on, so my Nissan will go back to being a fun casual project. Considering your boost limits and fuel, I agree the 0.92 could work well. Just expect the turbo to run out of exhaust flow around 625-645whp as opposed to 700-730 with the external gates and 1.05 a/r

I apologize for being annoying in advance :)

I rather save 1000$ish and put it toward a Quaife front diff ( my engine is coming out this winter). However, I also know, 6 month later, I will regret not paying an extra 1000$ to get an extra 75whp so I rather do it right the first time. ( At the same time, I gotta ask if 700whp ish isn't too hard for a standard 5speed gearbox..)

Spool : How much of a difference is there between the 0.92 and 1.05 ? Are we talking something like 150rpm or we're talking 400-500rpm ?

Power: I know the 1.05 can make 700whp, you did it, but you also had 3.5 inch ( I have 3 inch) and you have E85 ( I only have 94+WMI), so given the same 1.05ar , shouldn't I be more in the 650whp mark Vs your 700whp ? In other words, I'm unsure if my setup will be able to make ''full-use'' of the 1.05ar.

Thanks a lot! ( I rather write it here than PM so other can benefit from the answer)

I rather save 1000$ish and put it toward a Quaife front diff

I consider a good front diff a mandatory upgrade on an R32/R33 (stock is fragile) and even though R34's front diff is stronger the improvement in vehicle dynamics from a proper limited slip differential is hard to argue with

I gotta ask if 700whp ish isn't too hard for a standard 5speed gearbox..)

yes, 700whp is too much for a standard 5speed and wayy too much for a stock front diff. front diff will probably fail before the trans, but 3rd and 4th gear will let go too.

Spool : How much of a difference is there between the 0.92 and 1.05 ? Are we talking something like 150rpm or we're talking 400-500rpm ?

with the stiff actuator on the 0.92 a/r I'd guesstimate the spool difference to be ~200-250rpm due to the smaller A/R.

However, if a soft iwg actuator is on the 0.92 then they will spool about the same

I know the 1.05 can make 700whp, you did it, but you also had 3.5 inch ( I have 3 inch) and you have E85 ( I only have 94+WMI)

since you only have access to 94octane fuel with water/meth you are not going to be making that kind of power safely. Pump fuel is such poor consistency from pump to pump that you can not safely map with aggressive ignition timing. I made 590 on my car with pump gas, I could have made more and pushed it harder but I think that is probably a good stopping point and with meth you can get into the low-to-mid 600 range.

keep in mind i was using an off-the-shelf catalytic converter, thats a big restriction. Admittedly we try to run E85 in everything since its easier on the motor to run high boost with some ignition advance

A mate on here went from -5's to a 8374 internal 0.92 rear. 5-700 rpm earlier it comes on and makes more power. Given that Geoff reckons the 1.05 will be 150-200 rpm behind the 0.92, you're still infront.

A mate on here went from -5's to a 8374 internal 0.92 rear. 5-700 rpm earlier it comes on and makes more power. Given that Geoff reckons the 1.05 will be 150-200 rpm behind the 0.92, you're still infront.

so it's a done deal. Buying a 1.05 :)

Btw, did your mate posted his result/comparaison somewhere on the net, I couldn't find any rb26 with a 0.92 from my research.

Will gladly post result when I have them ( in about 6 months considering where I live lol)

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...