Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Firstly id like to know if anyone on SAU has gone down the twin EFR7163 path and what kind of results did they net. The turbo is rated at 550hp so would you need to run big boost to hit 1000 ?

I did have a set very early on (3yrs ago), they were prototypes so I'm not sure if the current 7163's are the same config.

Paul is correct, 20psi around 5500 and went on to make approx 600hp from memory. Didn't push them past 20psi so I have no idea where they would end up.

Roughly 1,000,000 going by Borg Warner's claims for them - they are beyond the Garrett GT3076R/HKS 3037s in flow rating, which used to be strictly "Pro GTR" type territory in the good old days of Japan drag racing. Serious serious business, so that lag isn't that surprising and realistically actually pretty impressive given what would have happened if you wound the boost up to 11. Not really ideal on a 2.6litre circuit car though!

When i started my build i had roll drags and 1/4 drag as my main priority. Ive since become more roll and top speed oriented seeing that i want to attend SM1000 next year. Ive got a 2.8 stroker with 288deg kelford cams, i think my cams might be to big for these turbos? I will be on E85, high comp and big boost. I do not want to make another mistake in my turbo choice. Its either going to be twin EFR's or a big single huffer for me.

Edited by Tyranus

Hello Guys,

Been reading this topic for a while now ... just caught up :P

Just orderd an 7670 1.05 a few minutes ago for my rb25 build (r33)

Hoping to get around the 500bhp out of this setup for a nice quick street car :)

rb26 crank

rb26 JE pistons

Eagle rods

custom manifold (2 38mm tial mvs)

delete the vct and put kelford 262 cams in there

Supertech springs

And the suporting mods for these kind of setups(fuel pump/injectors etc)

All will be at euro 98 fuel since we can get that at most places here.

  • Like 1

Hello Guys,

Been reading this topic for a while now ... just caught up :P

Just orderd an 7670 1.05 a few minutes ago for my rb25 build (r33)

Hoping to get around the 500bhp out of this setup for a nice quick street car :)

rb26 crank

rb26 JE pistons

Eagle rods

custom manifold (2 38mm tial mvs)

delete the vct and put kelford 262 cams in there

Supertech springs

And the suporting mods for these kind of setups(fuel pump/injectors etc)

All will be at euro 98 fuel since we can get that at most places here.

Sounds like an awesome setup!

So you can put some super sick Kelford cams on It Paul.. Farrrrkkk don't you know anything?

Kelford are awesome, I'd put them on anything except an RB25 - nfi why they don't do a VCT cam for them... my only guess is they don't sell enough for those motors to justify the R&D :(

I need to purchase the cams so its not set yet.

Its just that I want to see something else then the std choices everybody makes.

Hope that it would not be a bad choice to delete the vct that it would realy effect the power.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...