Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Firstly id like to know if anyone on SAU has gone down the twin EFR7163 path and what kind of results did they net. The turbo is rated at 550hp so would you need to run big boost to hit 1000 ?

I did have a set very early on (3yrs ago), they were prototypes so I'm not sure if the current 7163's are the same config.

Paul is correct, 20psi around 5500 and went on to make approx 600hp from memory. Didn't push them past 20psi so I have no idea where they would end up.

Roughly 1,000,000 going by Borg Warner's claims for them - they are beyond the Garrett GT3076R/HKS 3037s in flow rating, which used to be strictly "Pro GTR" type territory in the good old days of Japan drag racing. Serious serious business, so that lag isn't that surprising and realistically actually pretty impressive given what would have happened if you wound the boost up to 11. Not really ideal on a 2.6litre circuit car though!

When i started my build i had roll drags and 1/4 drag as my main priority. Ive since become more roll and top speed oriented seeing that i want to attend SM1000 next year. Ive got a 2.8 stroker with 288deg kelford cams, i think my cams might be to big for these turbos? I will be on E85, high comp and big boost. I do not want to make another mistake in my turbo choice. Its either going to be twin EFR's or a big single huffer for me.

Edited by Tyranus

Hello Guys,

Been reading this topic for a while now ... just caught up :P

Just orderd an 7670 1.05 a few minutes ago for my rb25 build (r33)

Hoping to get around the 500bhp out of this setup for a nice quick street car :)

rb26 crank

rb26 JE pistons

Eagle rods

custom manifold (2 38mm tial mvs)

delete the vct and put kelford 262 cams in there

Supertech springs

And the suporting mods for these kind of setups(fuel pump/injectors etc)

All will be at euro 98 fuel since we can get that at most places here.

  • Like 1

Hello Guys,

Been reading this topic for a while now ... just caught up :P

Just orderd an 7670 1.05 a few minutes ago for my rb25 build (r33)

Hoping to get around the 500bhp out of this setup for a nice quick street car :)

rb26 crank

rb26 JE pistons

Eagle rods

custom manifold (2 38mm tial mvs)

delete the vct and put kelford 262 cams in there

Supertech springs

And the suporting mods for these kind of setups(fuel pump/injectors etc)

All will be at euro 98 fuel since we can get that at most places here.

Sounds like an awesome setup!

So you can put some super sick Kelford cams on It Paul.. Farrrrkkk don't you know anything?

Kelford are awesome, I'd put them on anything except an RB25 - nfi why they don't do a VCT cam for them... my only guess is they don't sell enough for those motors to justify the R&D :(

I need to purchase the cams so its not set yet.

Its just that I want to see something else then the std choices everybody makes.

Hope that it would not be a bad choice to delete the vct that it would realy effect the power.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...