Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice tailgate window wing Mike. We were talking about these in the rare stag parts thread a few months back LOL.

Now just get some ganador mirrors on that PHAT RS! Sitting and looking very decent IMO. :P

damn that bottom under-window wing looks great!

attempting to fit longer wheel studs - wrong knurl size!!!

M12x1.25 50mm long studs with 13.75mm knurl wont fit

going to try 12.75mm knurl

expensive $100 mistake :)

Tangles, try the 50 mm nismo long hub bolts -I think 13mm, should solve your issue. You might also need longer open ended lug nuts.

Edited by dirtyRS4
Nice tailgate window wing Mike. We were talking about these in the rare stag parts thread a few months back LOL.

Now just get some ganador mirrors on that PHAT RS! Sitting and looking very decent IMO. :P

Tangles, try the 50 mm nismo long hub bolts -I think 13mm, should solve your issue. You might also need longer open ended lug nuts.

cheers, i have thought about ganadors but i picked up some LED turn signal mirrors for it instead, just need to get around to painting them... with everything else lol

damn that bottom under-window wing looks great!

attempting to fit longer wheel studs - wrong knurl size!!!

M12x1.25 50mm long studs with 13.75mm knurl wont fit

going to try 12.75mm knurl

expensive $100 mistake :P

Did you try front and rear? I was surprised to find they are different sizes per end.

BTW careful with the attessa controller, don't use 2wd mode if it has it

Put my r34 rims on and freshly resprayed rear dayz bar.

(Actually did this Sunday morning around 1 - 3am after moving house,

car was at panel beater all week...stared at the rims in my garage for

5 days before i could fit em)

Got a dolphin (copy) grille to put in tonight, will post some pics.

post-38314-1279592706_thumb.jpg

post-38314-1279592721_thumb.jpg

Had a bit of a mild shift kit performed on Friday, learning curve over here as no-one really knows anything about the 401b boxes in WA :D

Ended up removing the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulators and replacing with welsh plugs, has actually made a nice difference. It's not really harsh and it just gets in to gear now, high rpm 1-2 change is still a little slow but it actually goes in without having to lift the gas slightly or bounce the limiter.

Also confirmed that when I put it in to 2WD mode there is NO preload in the transfer case.

With VCT working, it will now actually spin up in the dry on the brake (wouldn't even do it in the wet with no VCT).

Nicer 1-2 shift means it easily hit 2nd gear while doing a standstill.. could probably have hit 3rd if I wanted but it's only open centre for now..

2WD mode + nicer 1-2 shift makes for some interesting times in the wet :)

Next step is shim my old 32gtst diff up and throw it in, also getting the adjustable rear upper arms that were destined for the 32 fitted within the next 2 weeks.

Then it's on to Nistuning and sourcing some swaybars :D

Where did you end up taking it for the shift kit?

The previous owner of my Stag took it too Precision Automatics for a full, not soft rebuild. Shifts stupid hard even when putting around at 20km/h!

Where did you end up taking it for the shift kit?

The previous owner of my Stag took it too Precision Automatics for a full, not soft rebuild. Shifts stupid hard even when putting around at 20km/h!

Global Automatics in Bibra Lake, I would probably call it a Stage 1 kit for marketing purposes.. on the hunt for a 34GTT box and I will loan it to them to sus things out in regards to shifting even harder. Could have spent more time on it but it's my daily and it seems nice for now.

Can take you for a drive if you want :)

/\/\/\/\ hells yeah i live in yangebup and that sounds exactly what im after, how much was it? i have a series 1 though so the box would be different.

Series 1's are just 401a (R33 and earlier) boxes and he can do whatever you want to those.

Series 2's are the 401b (R34) boxes and he's just learning about these, mine was the first he had worked on.

I won't quote what I paid as we didn't achieve what we set out to achieve so it didn't cost me much at all.

Got two OEM Nissan keys (without electronics) delivered today & went and got them cut in my lunch break.. Will find out in about an hour if they work or not :( The sizing all matches up though. $33 per unit, plus delivery. fingers crossed, it'll be nice to not be quite so concerned about losing my keys :bunny:

20072010056.jpg

nice RS4S.

I got a 36mm socket to take off the rear left hub. Got to get it off to replace studs and foot parkbrake pad.

Cant budge it, phark! Letting rusteze soak overnight on the hubnut, then will attack again with a 6ft breaker bar!

so damned hard to remove LHR hub.

got the 36mm hub nut off just now with huge torque (ie 115kgs of me leaning on 4ft breaker bar)

cant loosen the hub itself tho

hit it from all angles with hammer? how else to remove the hub itself? soaking in rusteze spray at the momeht

need access behind the hub so it must come off (only this one, other 3 wheel hubs will be fine on the car while replacing longer wheel studs)

must come off to install 50mm studs & new park brake pad.

suggestions?

so damned hard to remove LHR hub.

got the 36mm hub nut off just now with huge torque (ie 115kgs of me leaning on 4ft breaker bar)

cant loosen the hub itself tho

hit it from all angles with hammer? how else to remove the hub itself? soaking in rusteze spray at the momeht

need access behind the hub so it must come off (only this one, other 3 wheel hubs will be fine on the car while replacing longer wheel studs)

must come off to install 50mm studs & new park brake pad.

suggestions?

Can you fit a puller to load it up then give it a hit?

thanks mate for the suggestion. Looks like thats exactly what I need http://www.tridon.com.au/Products/Product....530&P=68973

have asked to borrow one from SAU:SA, we'll see what happens.

might have to plead to borrow one from my tuner if all else fails, who has shifted waaay out to whoopwhoop land

Blizzerd, Nice looking car. Pity about those eyelids. It looks like it has Dolfin sideskirts and rear bar. My guess is that the front bar was removed for RW as the dolfin fronts are pretty low....

I've just recently details my Stag inside and out. Yet to do the engine bay. LED's in all interior lights, Phillips Silver vision indicators front/rear and put dynamat on the floor in the boot. Yet to do the rear quarters, tailgate and doors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...